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Planeta
With almost all of the great wine estates I feature, there is a history to examine. Especially with the Old World; some Burgundian and German estates have histories approaching a thousand years. Bordeaux has a few centuries; more if looking outside the Médoc. And in Italy, the same is largely true. Allegrini was digging irrigation channels in 1557; Pio Cesare was established in 1881; Giovanni di Pieri Antinori was registered with his local Guild of Winemakers in 1385. But these are all estates in the classic, long-established regions of northern Italy, of course. Move further south, and we have a vinous revolution on our hands. Italy's south has a hot climate which, with the right attitude, can be perfect for viticulture. Planeta is just one winery that has risen from the dust to stake a claim as Sicily's leading producer. Their history? Just ten years so far....
Planeta is a family name; the three principle players are Alessio, Francesca and Santi, assisted by oenologist Carlo Corino. Although the Planeta family have a local history as far as agriculture, they are new to viticulture on the current scale. In a very short space of time they have built up a veritable empire of four vineyard sites totalling over 60 ha, together with two wineries, dotted along Sicily's south coast and linked by one road; Statale 115.
The
Ulmo winery was their first venture. Built in 1995 near Sambuca di Sicilia, this
is where the family now concentrate on white wines, principally Chardonnay and
Fiano, but other varieties also. The wines include Segreta Bianco (a
blend), Alastro (50/50 Chardonnay & Fiano), Cometa (Fiano) and
Chardonnay, the wine that brought Planeta worldwide attention. There are also
fine tasting rooms here, based in a nearby 16th Century country house, plenty of
vineyards and an ancient olive grove. They then moved on to build the Dispensa
winery, close to the wine town of Menfi and somewhat nearer the coast, in 2001.
Here the family concentrate on their red wines, and the winery is encircled by
Planeta's largest vineyard. The wines include the Segreta Rosso (a
blend), as well as the Merlot, Syrah and Burdese, a
Bordeaux style blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. There are
also vineyards further east at Noto in Syracuse, where there are 40 ha of Nero
d'Avola and Moscato - for Santa Cecilia and Moscato di Noto, and
at the family homestead at Dorilli in Acate. Here they planted 17 ha -
subsequently expanded to 37 ha - of Nero d'Avola and Frappato, an indigenous red
variety, for Cerasuolo di Vittoria.
I first encountered the fledgling Planeta with the 1995 Chardonnay, an excellent wine which was garnering much praise at the time. I thought it very good indeed, and the same can be said of my tasting of the 2003, as well as many of the other cuvées produced. The Santa Cecilia and Cometa wines are very worthwhile indeed; superb wines made using indigenous varieties. History or not, Planeta is a name to be reckoned with. (2/3/05)
Contact details:
Address: Contrada Dispensa, 92013 Menfi
Telephone: +39 0925 80009
Fax: +39 0925 80072
Internet: www.planeta.it
Planeta - Tasting Notes
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Planeta Cometa 2004: A bottle purchased in Valvona & Crolla, and
downed over lunch in the associated cafe. An 'absolute cracker', quipped the guy
on the wine counter as he handed over the bottle, who clearly thought this a
good choice. A little warmer than I would have liked, but not too warm to appreciate. A
really very deeply coloured, golden wine. Rich, candied fruit on the nose, with
a backbone of honey and oak. The palate is rich, full and firm and quickly
reveals a real kick through the midpalate. There is a firm, tongue-furring
presence of alcohol, and the label reveals 14.5%, which is certainly quite
tangible. There is good acidity, but it doesn't have any freshness. In fact it
develops quite a tannic grip, probably oak derived towards the finish, and it
really has the structure of a red wine. I think this will make some swoon with
delight. I find it impressive, and yet unbalanced and lacking vigour. Tasted at
Valvona & Crolla. 14/20 (April 2007)
Planeta La Segreta Bianco 2003: A blend of Greciano, Chardonnay,
Viognier and Sauvignon Blanc. Served a little too cold. Very fresh, plump,
mineral and floral white fruit nose. A touch lean on the palate, but clean and
balanced, with floral freshness leading to a refreshing finish. Good. Drink now.
15/20 (November 2004)
Planeta Chardonnay 2003: A honey-buttery style on the nose, but with
evidence of freshness. But again served too cold. Nevertheless expressive; big,
rich and stylish. Delicious honeycomb and cinder toffee notes, but cut through
with a clean lemon and herb incisiveness. Nutty finish, with twists of pepper
and spice. Lovely. Should improve in the short term. 17.5+/20 (November 2004)
Planeta La Segreta Rosso 2003: Predominantly Nero d'Avola, with Merlot
and Syrah. Ripe, herbal, berry fruit. Rounded palate, creamy, with a
herby-stony-mineral character. Burnt, charred, meaty notes. Big, soft,
fruit-rich style but with a grippy-spicy tannin backbone. Good, and should show
some short-term improvement. 15.5+/20 (November 2004)
Planeta Cerasuolo di Vittoria 2003: A blend of Nero d'Avola and
Frappato, a light, red grape, from the Dorilli vineyards. Good colour on
inspection. Cherry-berry red fruits on the nose, with a soft and fruity palate.
Beneath there lies a chalky, tannic structure, which is well integrated with the
medicinal fruit. Easy quaffing, Beaujolais-style wine. Good. 15/20 (November 2004)
Planeta Merlot 2002: A good, dark colour. A little closed on the nose,
but there is some dark, spicy fruit here. Big, creamy and svelte; soft and
seductive fruits wrapped around a core of ripe tannin. Good acid structure.
Plenty of tannins in the finish but in balance on the palate. This needs time -
three to four years. 16.5+/20 (November 2004)
Planeta Santa Cecilia 2002: Often regarded as the flagship wine. 100%
Nero d'Avola. Rather closed on the nose. Some mineral perfume. Rich and creamy,
svelte, with a wealth of tasteful red and black fruits. Ripe tannins, excellent
balance. Great length. Another that needs time - three to four years again.
17+/20 (November 2004)
Planeta Syrah 2002: Sweet, primary, red-black fruits, typical perfume
of young Syrah, but like the others a little shy on the nose. Full, creamy, with
the sweetness of burnt sugar. Packed with extract and tannin. Lovely structure
and a weighty concentration. Big, sweetly ripe finish. Also needs three to four
years. 16.5+/20 (November 2004)
Planeta Cometa 2001: It's good to see Planeta working with indigenous
Sicilian varieties - in this case Fiano - as well as the international varieties
with which they first drew attention to themselves. There is a delightful nose
here, rich with tropical fruits with a pine nut and citrus edge. Full bodied on
the palate, packed with fruit, and low but sufficient acidity. A very clean,
pure style, resembling a turbo-charged Condrieu! The price tag also resembles
Condrieu. Nevertheless, most impressive. 17/20 (October 2002)
Planeta Santa Cecilia 1998: This wine has a
wonderful vibrancy in the glass, with a red-purple centre fading out
to a bright red rim. Crushed summer fruits greet you on the nose,
led by black cherries, followed up by some toasted, vanillin oak.
There is a rich and earthy character to the nose, with a nuance of
black pepper. Supple, ripe and rounded tannins, with well-balanced
barely noticeable acidity and a silky texture make for an elegant
mouth-feel. There are spicy black fruits and a strong, earthy edge
to the wine coming through on the medium-full palate also. The
smooth texture persists through the finish, culminating in a spice-laden length.
17/20 (March 2002) Label
Planeta Chardonnay 1995: The colour is a rich, luscious gold -
the intensity of which is quite remarkable. On the nose
there are heady aromas of vanillin and spicy oak, and
tropical fruits. Very promising. It has a delicious
mouth-feel. Good glycerol/alcohol chewy texture. Tropical
fruits with spicy, coconut, oaky notes. Delicious
complexity from the oak, but slightly over done, making
the wine a little unbalanced. Finish good, decent length.
Enjoyable, and certainly a wine worth experiencing.
16.5/20 (May 2000)
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