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Pieropan
Swimming against the tide, the Pieropan family have been flag-bearers for the Soave DOC for several decades, a small speck of quality in an ocean of often less than adequate wines. The family's association with wine stretches back to at least 1890, which is when Leonildo Pieropan established the company. It passed from his hands to those of his sons, Fausto and Gustavo, and then to his grandson, also called Leonildo. Today he and his wife Teresita continue to run the estate, with the help of their own two sons, Andrea and Dario, in more recent years.
The continued success of Pieropan is generally ascribed to Leonildo junior
rather than his forebears, and in particular it is likely that Leonildo's
attention to detail in the vineyard is a significant factor in this. The family
now own more than 30 hectares of vines, which see spur pruning and crop thinning
to control yields, and only organic fertiliser. In addition he is committed to
producing wines using Garganega, the indigenous variety long associated with the
region, unlike some other Soave producers who have introduced international
varieties such as Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc to bolster their wines. The
fruit is hand-harvested and transported to the winery where it undergoes
pneumatic pressing before cooling and settling over a couple of days. It is then
racked off the skins and fermented in cement vats with the temperature
controlled to 20ēC. Although dating back to 1460 the restored winery building,
named Pullici, has modern facilities where deemed necessary - such as a spotless
drying chamber for producing Recioto - but otherwise modern techniques which
obscure the character of the wines, such as barrique fermentation and
ageing, are avoided, at least for the classically styled dry wines. As a rule, the
wines are
filtered and bottled the spring after harvest.
Today the Pieropan portfolio includes extended plots in highly regarded Soave crus, not only the famous Calvarino and La Rocca which both feature as single-vineyard wines, but also Pigno, Palestrello and La Santa. Of the first two, the Soave La Rocca is perhaps the most esoteric. Named after the Medieval fortress which dominates the town of Soave this wine, which was first produced with the 1978 vintage, originates from a vineyard of clay and calcareous elements, and it is 100% Garganega. The Soave Calvarino, meanwhile, is essentially the heart of the portfolio; Calvarino, with its basalt and tufa-rich soils, was the original Pieropan vineyard, and it is planted with 70% Garganega and 30% Trebbiano. It has been bottled as a single vineyard wine since 1971. These two are followed by a 'generic' Soave Classico, produced from Garganega and Trebbiano vines grown on the clay, basalt and volcanic soils of the hillside vineyards of the Soave Classico DOC.
Leonildo and Teresita are also committed to more opulent, sweeter styles as a contrast to the clean lines of their dry wines. The first of these is the Recioto di Soave le Colombare, which as the name suggests is made by drying the harvested grapes on straw mats. The wine is 100% Garganega, and only the top fruit from each bunch - those that have seen best exposure to the sun and are perhaps riper as a result - are utilised. In contrast to this very traditional style, however, the Pieropans also produce the Passito della Rocca, originally created for the family's personal drinking; this wine does allow for some international varieties, being composed of 60% Sauvignon Blanc, 30% Riesling and 10% Trebbiano, fermented and subsequently aged en barrique. In addition, the Pieropans also occasionally produce a late harvest wine named Santa Lucia Vendemmia Tardiva after the harvest date in December.
My limited experience of Pieropan's wines suggests that this is certainly an estate worth knowing, especially for those who appreciate characterful, incisively styled white wines. Those unfamiliar with these wines will perhaps be surprised when they first encounter one, as even the bottles are striking, with a tall, slim, tapered appearance rather akin to those of Alsace or Germany. I even recall one retailer who, despite being a fan of the wines, no longer stocked them as sales were so lethargic, a reality which he ascribed in part to the shape of the bottles. Nevertheless, those of us who are not blinkered by packaging foibles, or indeed find such nuances appealing rather than off-putting, can enjoy the quality of the wines within. Prices, unfortunately, have risen in recent years, although naturally this is not a feature unique to Pieropan, and for once the quality presented here may still be worth the outlay. (28/4/03, updated 27/8/08)
Contact details:
Address: Via Camuzzoni 3, 37038 Soave
Telephone: +39 045 619 0171
Fax: +39 045 619 0040
Internet: www.pieropan.it
Pieropan - Tasting Notes
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Pieropan Soave Classico 2006: There is very little on the nose here; this
seems to be completely closed down to me. It has a nice colour though, crystal
clear with a gentle green hue. On the palate it has an attractive presence,
showing slightly peppery acidity and, despite the nose being so devoid of
interesting aromas, holding the wine on the palate does release some youthful
leafy and herby character. There is promise here; with time this wine will open
up and give much more pleasure I think. From a
Liberty Wines tasting. 16+/20
(February 2008)
Pieropan Soave Calvarino 2005: A similar hue to the 2006 Classico here,
slightly less overtly green perhaps. It is also quite closed down on the nose,
however, giving subtle wisps of honeyed fruit but, for the moment at least,
nothing more. This has a really nice, well defined style on the palate, fairly
full in character, quite broad, with an attractive composition. This has very
good potential indeed. From a
Liberty Wines tasting. 16.5+/20
(February 2008)
Pieropan Soave Classico 2001: This
wine is a pale golden hue, and full of melon and stone fruit on the
ripe, enticing, open nose. The palate is ripe and fleshy, quite savoury,
with pepper-spiced fruit. Medium body, with a touch of richness and
grip, balanced out with fresh grapefruit and citrus tinged acidity. This
would make lovely summer drinking. 16.5/20 (April 2003)
Label
Pieropan Soave La Rocca 2000: A gorgeous colour, quite a deep and rich golden
hue, but cut through with a tinge of green. Fresh and vibrant on the nose,
immediately offering grapefruit and other citrus fruit aromas, followed up by
notes of honey, fresh white bread and stone fruit also. Ripe and mouthfilling on
the palate, but with a firm grip and fresh acidity. This is matched by a
developing honeyed texture which will only get better with time. White and stone
fruit flavours, with a nutty edge. Some bitter quinine on the finish, where it
is really very
savoury and still grippy. This is delightful stuff, with potential
to develop in bottle for several years I feel. 17+/20 (May 2003)
Label
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