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Fattoria di Felsina

Felsina is an estate with ancient history, although it is only in the last few decades that it has morphed into a Chianti estate of the highest quality. This all began in 1961, when Domenico Poggiali acquired the buildings and 57 ha of vineyards that are now largely run by his son-in-law Guiseppe Mazzocolin, who married Gloria Poggiali. An examination of more ancient history, however, reveals Felsina's fascinating past. Already in existence by the 12th Century, this estate, or grancia, was once a roadside hospital manned by Benedictine monks, who tended to the needs of the sick and weary pilgrims that passed by on the Strata de Rancia. The monks worked in association with the staff at the nearby Santa Maria della Scala hospital in Siena, a huge complex of Medieval buildings opposite the Duomo, the town's cathedral, both of which I mentioned in my introduction to my Siena trip.

The estate is located in the most south-eastern part of the Chianti Classico zone, just up the road from Castelnuovo Berardenga, and just a stone's throw from Siena itself. The Medieval towers of the town are clearly visible from the Felsina vineyards, as shown on the left, the vineyards peaking with a sandstone outcrop at 420m. Other soils are typical of the Chianti region, being galestro (shale, a form of compacted clay) and albarese (a lime and clay soil with limestone rocks), although some vineyards include some heavier clay soils, lending more body to the final product. About 6 ha of the classic Chianti soils, cropped at 40-45 hl/ha, are the source of the estate's flagship wine, the Felsina Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia, rancia a derivative of grancia, above. The fruit sees temperature-controlled fermenttaion, before 12-18 months in small barrels, then a further 6 months in bottle prior to release. This is, in my opinion, not just the estate's leading wine, but also one of Tuscany's premier wines, challenging any Sangiovese, be it Chianti, Brunello or Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, on a matter of quality.

Others would perhaps place the IGT Fontalloro over the Rancia; this is an impressive wine made from Sangiovese grown on the Fontalloro or Poggio al Sole vineyard, classic soils within the Classico zone, as well as the Casalino and Arcidossino vineyards in the Chianti Colli Senesi region, where the soils are much heavier clays. Once in the winery, the fruit is handled in much the same way as that of the Rancia Riserva. There is also a Chianti Classico Riserva, which is produced exclusively for the North American market, and a straight Chianti Classico. Felsina also maintain the production of a traditional Vin Santo, from Malvasia, Trebbiano and Sangiovese. The international varieties also have a presence, with a Cabernet Sauvignon from vines grafted onto old rootstock in 1984, Maestro Raro, and I Sistri, a Chardonnay.

Giuseppe Mazzocolin, aided by consultant Franco Bernabei, has enjoyed great success at Felsina, facilitating expansion by purchase of the neighbouring property, Pagliarese. This purchase allowed the replanting of Felsina, whilst the Pagliarese estate provided the fruit. The vineyards are managed by Agostino Buracchi, who has overseen new plantings at Felsina, at a density of 5400 vines/ha, more than that at the old Pagliarese estate (which will be replanted) where it is 3200 vines/ha. The vineyards are orintated south-southwest, Guyot trained, see summer-time canopy management in the form of leaf plucking, a green harvest in August if required, before hand harvesting when the fruit is ripe.

My recent tasting took in just two vintages of the Riserva Rancia, plus the 2000 Classico, but this was enough to reaffirm my faith in Fattoria de Felsina Berardenga, to give the estate its full title; Felsina maintains its position in the top tier of Chianti producers. Unfortunately, as is the case with many world-class estates, whether they be in Chianti, Chateauneuf or Côte Rôtie, prices have slowly but steadily risen over the past few years. (9/9/02, updated 23/2/06)

Contact details:
Address: Strada Chiantigiana 484, Castelnuovo Berardenga
Telephone: +39 057 735 5117
Fax: +39 057 735 5651
Internet: www.felsina.it

Fattoria di Felsina - Tasting Notes

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Felsina Berardenga Chianti Classico 2006: The aroma of Pontefract cakes here, liquorice and charred oak. The palate is rather soft focus, fleshy but with a grippy palate. Chewy, mouth-filling, soft. Certainly interesting, this has at least the potential to be very good, although beyond that I find it a little difficult to judge today. From a Liberty Wines tasting. 15.5-16.5+?/20 (February 2009)

Felsina Berardenga Chianti Classico 2006: This has a lovely glossy appearance. Nevertheless, there is little expression on the nose at the moment, just a faint seam of meaty fruit. On the palate though there is plenty of evidence of quality, It has a good weight and a very appealing structure at its core, where there is a lot of ripe but grippy tannin. It has a very firm character, but laid on top is a blanket of bright and lifted fruit. Good acid backbone. There is good potential here, but this needs time, two or three years at least. From a Liberty Wines tasting. 16.5+/20 (February 2008)

Felsina Berardenga Rancia Chianti Classico Riserva 2006: Tasted at the rather over-priced Mirabelle restuarant in Rome. Despite being served by a tastevin-wearing sommelier, this young and oaky wine (a problem with restaurant lists, especially one such as this which focuses only on grand labels, omitting more affordable bottles which would probably drink better now) was - to my surprise and disappointment - not even decanted. With some time it does display touches of cranberry fruit and bitter chocolate, but the smoky oak still dominates. The palate is nicely structured, mildly austere in terms of acid backbone and middleweight substance, but it is very typical of the appellation and it is perfect with food. A ripe and mild-mannered tannic backbone. Overall, too young to give real pleasure now, but will be superb in five years (and the rest). 18+/20 (March 2010)

Felsina Berardenga Rancia Chianti Classico Riserva 2004: This is Felsina's flagship wine, and one that has been adorable in previous vintages, and the 2004 doesn't disappoint - although the price seems to be continuing its upward trend. Dense fruit, liquorice, slightly tarry, certainly rich with a promising depth. Lots of cherry and plum fruit on the palate, backed up by piles of structure and tannins. Fresh, not roasted, but deep and impressively structured, with lots of grip and a huge finish. Great length. Excellent potential. From a tasting with Woodwinters. 17.5+/20 (November 2008)

Felsina Berardenga Rancia Chianti Classico Riserva 2002: Very deep colour. Very youthful, and rather restrained as a result, giving little on the nose other than some pleasing dark fruits. On the palate, it shows wonderful texture, extract and structure, although at present the complexity and finesse this cuvée is so rightly popular for has yet to show. But it is brimming with good potential for the future. Leave well alone for five years as a minimum. 17.5+/20 (September 2005)

Felsina Berardenga Chianti Classico 2000: Good, deep colour. Smoky, charred meat and roasted berry nose. A sense of freshness, which carries through onto the palate, helped by correct acids. This alone sets this apart from a number of other 2000s I have tasted. Just a hint of polyphenol influence to the texture, nice extract, and fresh, ripe, firm fruit. 16/20 (September 2005)

Felsina Berardenga Rancia Chianti Classico Riserva 1999: The first bottle was completely dead - perhaps low-level cork taint? The second was fortunately much better. The colour is quite dark, but showing some mature tones. The nose has a subtle and harmonious elegance, with cherries rubbed over quiet notes of spiced sandalwood. A gentle start on the palate, showing pretty firm acidity through the middle, with a seam of smoky meat. The structure is rather extreme, that acidity I have already mentioned plus a rather soft, slightly unfocused texture. It lacks precision, definition - there is, however, something very fine about it, a supple, seamless style which is extremely appealing. There's some grip at the finish though, and it has considerable length. Although I'm not quite so enamoured or confident as I was at my last tasting this wine still has more to offer I think, and if it firms up it could be superb. From my 1999 vintage Ten Years On tasting. 17-17.5?/20 (December 2009)

Felsina Berardenga Rancia Chianti Classico Riserva 1999: Lovely, deep colour. On the nose, smoked, macerated black cherries, black olives, hints of savoury sun-dried tomatoes. Rich palate, displaying impeccable balance. Packed with mineral, cherry, tomato and bacon flavour, still showing just a little oak, although this is negligible. Lovely extract, very pure overall, with some elegance coming through. Emerging complexity here. Grippy finish and great length. This is marvellous, and has such potential. 18.5+/20 (September 2005)

Felsina Berardenga Chianti Classico 1999: A fairly deep, garnet red hue. Quite expressive on the nose at first, throwing around dark fruit aromas, but with minutes it closes down, leaving a delightful scent of black olives hiding behind a rubbery mask. Notes of wood polish suggest the presence of some volatile acids. Later some black cherry notes appear. Full bodied on the palate, with good extract, and powerful acidity, with tannins taking a position in the background. Towards the finish the black olive and dark fruit character really builds, with some good fatness. With time real weight and a sweet, smoky character develops, although this remains very much tempered by the acidity.  The finish hides an acidic kick. Lovely stuff. 17/20 (September 2002) Label

Felsina Berardenga Rancia Chianti Classico Riserva 1994: A fading red hue, a touch tawny at the rim, but with no other sign of age. Grilled meats on the nose, with chalky, smoky, firm berry fruit. There's also a suggestion of volatile acids. The palate is medium bodied, with a sweet, rounded texture, together with some intense, freshly acidic fruit. Lovely, firm tannins, more apparent on the finish, giving great structure. Delicious, stylish stuff, that has come together really well since I last tasted it, and it gets better with every glass. 18/20 (September 2002) Label

Felsina Berardenga Rancia Chianti Classico Riserva 1994: Two bottles consumed within a few months of one another. A deep purple colour with a hint of tawny at the rim. Some initial bottle stink quickly blows away, and the nose develops complex aromas of coffee, tea and oak, with some red and black fruits. The palate has prickling yet gentle acidity, and soft tannins. Wonderfully balanced. Round, black fruit flavours, black pepper, with herb notes. Medium bodied. Lovely finish - a delightful wine. The latter bottle had a lovely, inky purple black. Bags of toasty oak on the nose, with rich blackberry and blackcurrant aromas. The palate is full bodied, with rich plum and blackberry fruit, more toasty oak, very fine, grainy, just integrated tannins, and spot-on acidity. A superb, mouth filling texture, and an elegant finish. Superb wine, and so much richer than my last bottle. 18/20 (November 2000)