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Bisol

I must admit I approach all sparkling wines that don't bear the word Champagne on the label with apprehension. Actually, following the recent Champagne Information Bureau tasting, I might approach many that do wear the word Champagne with considerable caution as well. This is not snobbery; rather I have learnt through initially open-minded experience that no wines match those from Champagne if one is searching for finesse, elegance and balance. And if you can see past the seduction that even a coarse mouthful of bubbles can have on the palate, you would agree that it is difficult for any wines to match those from the chalky hills of northern France for sheer presence.

And so I approached the wines of Bisol. These wines are Prosecco, produced on the hillsides of Veneto, in the northeast of Italy. Prosecco is the name that identifies the wine, but is also the name of the principal grape, a variety that has been cultivated here for at least two centuries, and possibly a lot longer, if it is the same as the Pucino grape of Roman times, which is thought to be the case. Bisol may have been here for just as long as their grape, with a family history that reaches back to at least the 16th Century, when their presence in the region was recorded by a local census. It was Eliseo Bisol who set the family on the road to Prosecco stardom, however, when he began to vinify the grapes the family had been growing for centuries, changing their profile from farmer to winemaker. This he did in 1875, at the age of twenty, but despite his tender years the business was a success and Bisol entered the Twentieth Century on top form. In 1923 the estate passed to his son, Desiderio, who expanded and reorganised, before passing the mantle to the third generation, Eliseo's grandchildren, who now run the business with assistance from their own sons.

BisolThe Bisol estate is spread over 50 ha of Prosecco DOC vineyards lying between the towns of Valdobbiadene and Conegliano, which mark the limits of the DOC zone. This is a remarkable size in a region where the typical business model is more one of a smallholding, the typical vineyard size a mere hectare. In addition, the estate includes 3 ha of vines on the prestigious Cartizze hill, the highest and most prized slopes in the region. These are carefully managed sites, with the Bisol estate undergoing green harvesting and yield reduction each year, the emphasis being on securing a product of suitable quality for demanding export markets, as well as nearby Venice and other nearby towns, which soak up a lot of their local fizz.

There are three groups of wines produced at Bisol; Selezione Jeio Bisol, the single vineyard Cru wines, and the Talento Metodo Classico wines. It is the first two that are of most interest, as these represent the true Prosecco; traditionally produced wines using predominantly the Prosecco grape. The Talento wines are a more recent creation, all made from Chardonnay, Pinot Nero (Pinot Noir) and Pinot Bianco (Pinot Blanc) using the metodo classico, known in another well known illustrious region, famed for its sparkling wine, as Méthode Champenoise. The Selezione Jeio Bisol are the entry level wines, blended from the Bisol vineyards, and starts with the Jeio Valdobbiadene Brut, which is 90% Prosecco, the balance being Verdiso and Pinot Bianco, from high, south facing slopes up at 250m. The Jeio Colmei comes from similar sites but is 100% Prosecco, whereas the Jeio Cuvée is Prosecco blended with Chardonnay, Sauvignon, Verdiso and the esoteric Incrocio Manzoni 6.0.13, a Riesling-Pinot Bianco cross. The Cru wines are as follows:

I have to confess, I like the Bisol wines, particularly the Cartizze and Crede Prosecco, and also the Bisol sweet wine, Duca di Dolle, made using a dried grape technique. They have freshness and appeal, they are delicate and pleasing on the palate. They do not have the firm presence, gravitas even, of Champagne, but this is a completely different style of wine and we should not expect that to be the case. What they do have is acidity, minerality and freshness, which is more than enough. And if it is price rather than style that lights your candle, these wines are certainly worth looking at; even the prestigious Cartizze label comes in at less than many grande marque non-vintage Champagnes. (23/3/06)

Contact details:
Address: 31040 S. Stefano di Valdobbiadene (Fol) Treviso
Telephone: +39 0423 900138
Fax: +39 0423 900577
Internet: www.bisol.it

Bisol - Tasting Notes

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2005

Bisol Molera Prosecco di Valdobbiadene Tranquillo 2005: A blend of 95% Prosecco and 5% Verdiso. Not imported into the UK. This vintage has a stylish, leafy, herby character which I find very attractive. Elegantly presented palate, with a nice, reserved texture, and good structure beneath. I like this, and certainly prefer it to the 2004. 16/20 (November 2006)

Bisol Cru Crede Prosecco di Valdobbiadene Brut 2005: One of the single vineyard wines, from clay (crede) soils. A blend of 85% Prosecco, 10% Pinot Bianco and 5% Verdiso. Secondary fermentation is in tank. Again, the finished wine has 10 g/l of sugar. Fresh, stylish, with more depth and a little complexity here. Rounded, fresh, with a lemon-mineral style on the palate. This is good. 16.5/20 (November 2006)

Bisol Cru Cartizze Prosecco di Valdobbiadene Brut 2005: Another single vineyard wine, from the Cartizze hill. Secondary fermentation is in tank, and 25 g/l of sugar in the finished wine. A nose infused with lemons, herbs and minerals. Rounded, with a creamy depth on the palate. Quite stylish. Crisp mousse, fresh and lively yet with a little depth. This is very good indeed. 17/20 (November 2006)

2004

Bisol Molera Prosecco di Valdobbiadene Tranquillo 2004: A blend of 95% Prosecco and 5% Verdiso. Not imported into the UK. A very clean nose, reminiscent of seasalt dashed on rocks, with a lean background of white citrus fruit. Medium bodied on entry, but showing a lean midpalate, with softer acidity than I expected. Nice salt-rock character. Unfussy drinking, best chilled I expect. 15/20 (November 2005)

Bisol Cru Crede Prosecco di Valdobbiadene Brut 2004: One of the single vineyard wines, from clay (crede) soils. A blend of 85% Prosecco, 10% Pinot Bianco and 5% Verdiso. Quite open, solid, minerally wine, with a full, similarly obvious palate. A strong, minerally character pervades through to the finish. This is straight up and foursquare, but has good style. 16/20 (November 2005)

Bisol Cru Cartizze Prosecco di Valdobbiadene Brut 2004: Another single vineyard wine, from the Cartizze hill. Floral, attractively perfumed, with a citrus-mineral character. Very profound, obvious palate, rich and minerally. Not as sweet as I expected. This has good character; drink now. 16.5/20 (November 2005)

1998

Bisol Talento Metodo Classico Brut Rosé 1998: In this vintage this is 80% Pinot Nero, 10% Pinot Bianco and 10% Chardonnay. It is made using full Methode Champenois, or metodo classico, following a 1-2 hour soak which gives the colour. Gianluca Bisol did not think it was showing well on the day - I thought it was fine. Exotic, deeply fruit nose, led by strawberries. Deep, complex, full mousse, and a gently fading finish. Very characterful. Very good indeed. 17/20 (November 2006)

1997

Bisol Talento Metodo Classico Brut Rosé 1997: This is 100% Pinot Nero, made using full Methode Champenois, or metodo classico. A peachy, onion skin hue. Lovely character on the nose, which has rich, leesy, toffee raspberry quality. Full and smoky, with a firm mousse and firm acidity. Very dry. Settles to a less aggressive style through the midpalate. Good. 15.5/20 (November 2005)

Non-Vintage

Tasting notes are ordered by date of tasting, most recent first. I have tried to indicate whether it is a tasting of a new release, or of a wine I have cellared.

Bisol 'Jeio Bisol' Prosecco di Valdobbiadene Brut NV: Current release. Entry-level Prosecco, using fruit blended from several vineyards. The Jeio Bisol may sometimes be a blend across two vintages, but in this particular case this is all 2005. It is initially mostly fermented in stainless steel, with 10% in wood, and the secondary fermentation is all in tank. The finished wine has 10 g/l of sugar. It has a fresh, leafy style on the nose, and a fresh, crisp, lifted palate. Leafy and nettly flavour, rather a sharp finish on the palate. It is good for what it is. For current drinking. 15.5/20 (November 2006)

Bisol Passito di Prosecco 'Duca di Dolle' NV: Current release. Another year on and this is now a blend of fourteen vintages, from 1991 to 2004. Each year 15% is bled off and then the vat is topped up with the most recent vintage. It is 100% Prosecco. And orange-gold colour, with a complex, honeyed nose. Deeply flavoured, with notes of honey, pastry and cherries. Complex, a little burnt earth, really very enjoyable. 17/20 (November 2006)

Bisol 'Jeio Bisol' Prosecco di Valdobbiadene Brut NV: Current release. An example of entry-level Prosecco, using fruit blended from several vineyards. It has slightly sweet, herbal and citrus fruit on the nose. An off-dry palate, with clean white flower petals and a smoky edge, leading to a full, creamy mousse. Nice, minerally finish. For current drinking. 15.5/20 (November 2005)

Bisol Passito di Prosecco 'Duca di Dolle' NV: Current release. A blend of thirteen vintages, 100% Prosecco, made in a blended, non-solera fashion. Oranges, minerals, macerated peaches and a smoky richness on the nose. Rich and creamy mouthfeel, quite refreshing despite rather low acidity. Roasted, caramel fruit. This has great length. Very good. 17/20 (November 2005)

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