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Allegrini
The Allegrini estate is located in Fumane di Valpolicella, and the Allegrini family started here in the 16th Century, if not before. One of the earliest family members documented to have made wine here was Allegrino Allegrini, who in 1557 was using, according to ancient documents, local springs in Mazzurega, a suburb of Fumane, to irrigate his vines. The Allegrini family acquired much land at this time, and a census from the early years of the 17th Century shows the family was a major landowner with considerable local influence as a result.
Move forward to the 20th Century and the most influential Allegrini of modern times was Giovanni Allegrini. Giovanni, who began his work in the family business aged just twelve years, questioned and modernised vineyard and winery practices, and laid the foundation stones for the strong business that the family control today. He developed markets for his wines, both in Italy and further afield. One of his most significant acts was to acquire, shortly before his premature death in 1983, a vineyard on the La Grola hill for the purpose of making quality cru wines under the Valpolicella DOC. He did not live long enough to see it replanted and bearing fruit, but his children Walter, Franco and Marilisa, who inherited the estate, have quite literally brought this particular vineyard project to fruition. Walter died in 2003, clearly before his time, and so today it is Franco and Marilisa that tend to the family's business and heritage.
All of Allegrini's wines are produced from estate-grown fruit; there is no négociant aspect to this family business. They tend over 70 hectares of vineyard, in the communes of Fumane, Sant' Ambrogio and San Pietro, all situated within the Valpolicella Classico DOC. To this day the La Grola vineyard remains the source of Allegrini's greatest wines; it is a vineyard of mixed terroir, with volcanic soils at its foot, extending up the slope. This is the source of La Grola, principally a blend of Corvina and Rondinella but also including Syrah and Sangiovese, subsequently aged in French oak; this is an excellent yet affordable example of what can be done with these varieties. At the top of La Grola the soil is predominantly calcareous, and here Corvina is cultivated in isolation, this fruit being the source of La Poja. This is one of Valpolicella's most profound wines, which in some of the few vintages I have tasted has been very impressive indeed. Allegrini's other famous vineyard is Palazzo della Torre, a clay site which is the source of the wine of the same name. Here Corvina, Rondinella and Sangiovese come together, in part using a ripasso method for a portion of the harvest; 70% of the fruit is fermented in the normal fashion, but the remainder is dried until December, and then the wine is blended with the dried fruit for a second fermentation.
The family own an impressive array of other vineyards, but it is the two above that are of most interest. Having acknowledged that, the wines from these other vineyards are certainly worthy of our attention. Perhaps the most notable wine, one that can certainly not go unmentioned, is Allegrini's Amarone, frequently vying for position as top wine of the vintage. This wine, a unique style which - surprisingly - dates back to only the mid-20th Century, is a blend produced using Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara grapes which are dried for three to four months. Traditionally this was undertaken in warm lofts under roofs of terracotta tiles, but today the process is a much grander and industrial affair, and the Allegrini grapes will be found desiccating in trays stored in a climate-controlled warehouse. The shrivelled berries are then fermented to a dry style, but in some cases fermentation is arrested before that point in order to produce the sweeter Recioto Giovanni Allegrini, named after the dynamic Giovanni discussed above, who favoured this wine above all others he produced. In addition to these grand styles, Allegrini also have a reputation for producing a decent Valpolicella Classico which, although light, should not be overlooked. In recent vintages, starting with 2007, this has been reclassified as a straight Valpolicella, as Allegrini's decision to use a screwcap closure - which is surely the right choice for this wine - still contravenes the DOC regulations for Valpolicella Classico, although from that vintage it was permissible for Valpolicella.
When looking at the Allegrini range both Le Poja and the Amarone have, in my limited experience of these wines, performed really well over the years. But they come at a price, and in recent years it has been a rising price. Value comes with La Grola, which I have enjoyed at tastings, at home and when plucked from a wine list. It is a huge step up from the generic Valpolicella Classico, and in my opinion it overperforms when taking price into consideration. But for the ultimate pleasure, it has to be La Poja; the 1993 was fabulous, rich and yet fresh and lively. (3/11/04, updated 14/8/08)
Contact details:
Address: Via Giare 9/11, 37022 Fumane
Telephone: +39 045 683 2011
Fax: +39 045 770 1774
Internet: www.allegrini.it
Allegrini - Tasting Notes
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Allegrini Valpolicella 2007: Bottled under Stelvin, a newly permitted
closure for this DOC; previously this wine would have been Valpolicella
Classico, but at the time screwcap closures are still not permitted by the
Classico DOC. This has a bright,
vivacious hue, as it should. It is simple, but has an attractively forthright
herbal-cherry nose. Nicely styled on the palate, rounded and well integrated, ,
with good pepper and grip. An enjoyable style, and impressive for a straight
Valpolicella. From a
Liberty Wines tasting. 15/20 (February 2008)
Allegrini Palazzo della Torre 2004: A nice, deep hue here. Less open on the
nose than the 2007 Valpolicella, tasted alongside, there are dark fruits here,
with a subtle, cola-caramel tinged character. The palate shows a more minerally
character than is found on the nose, and it has a rich and creamy impact. This
has a good blending of fruit, grip and acidity. That cola element reappears on
the finish. Overall though, I think this has appeal. From a
Liberty Wines tasting. 16/20 (February 2008)
Allegrini La Grola 2004: A very dense, rich hue on inspection. There
is a lot of fruit here, with a roasted herb character. This is followed by
lovely style on the palate; there is dense flavour, creamy fruit, intensity and
yet also freshness and definition. Very appealing, as previous vintages have
been, and also offering decent value for money. From a
Liberty Wines tasting. 16.5/20 (February 2008)
Allegrini Amarone della Valpolicella 2004: Very forward on the nose, which is
open and expressive, with aromas of red cherry skins and cherry liqueur
richness. The palate is fabulously rich and creamy, dense, pure and integrated.
There is a fine concentration of flavour, with bitter cherry skins, milk
chocolate and more. A lot of character here, and a lot of grip on the finish.
Very good indeed, and with excellent potential. From a
Liberty Wines tasting. 18+/20 (February 2008)
Allegrini La Poja 2003: An old favourite; I really adored the 1993 vintage.
The aromas on the nose are intense and characterful, showing bright yet roasted
fruit, with scents of cherry and earth. Great depth and fruit complexity here.
Although it has a little roasted note the heat of the vintage is not overly
transparent; there are no baked elements as yet. And there is a lot of acidity
too, flavours of pickling spices, and overall a great composition. Lovely
potential for the cellar here. From a
Liberty Wines tasting. 18+/20 (February 2008)
Allegrini Valpolicella Classico 2002: A dark hue fading to a pink,
youthful rim. A lovely, herby, sweet cherry, plummy, dusty fruit nose. A very
juicy, bone dry palate with typically firm, food-beating acidity. Plenty of
flavour too; cherries and plums. Some nice extract present as well, and a
balanced backbone of integrated tannins which coat the mouth after a while.
Great, fresh, juicy, flavoursome barbecue wine. 15.5/20 (October 2004)
Allegrini La Grola 1999: A vibrant red-purple hue. Good
sweet, smoky and peppery cherry fruit on the nose, with notes of charred herbs.
Medium bodied palate, quite lithe and balanced. Plenty of peppery fruit like the
nose. Spicy tannins show nicely in the finish. A savoury, mouthfilling blend of
deliciously dark fruits with fresh acidity. Very modern style though. 16.5/20 (October 2004)
Allegrini La Grola 1998: A youthful
red-purple wine, with a great density of colour. An abundance of rich, dark,
spice and chocolate-tinged summer fruits on the nose, with some oak as well.
Rounded, medium bodied, packed with dry, jammy fruit. Fresh acidity and some
drying tannins on the finish lend a sense of balance. An obvious yet enjoyable
style.
16.5+/20 (February 2003)
Label
Allegrini La Grola 1998: A youthful, red-purple hue. Plenty of dark fruit on
the nose, together with a tarry, dark chocolate edge. Wonderful palate!
Plentiful fruit, quite an elegant texture, and good acidity. There are some ripe
tannins which provide structure, and everything seems well balanced. A delicious
wine. Excellent on a 'value-for-money' basis. Tasted at
Heathcotes. 16.5+/20 (August 2002)
Allegrini Amarone della Valpolicella 1995: This is an impressively coloured wine. A deep blood red-black hue
supporting a very fine sediment. On the nose there is a melding of fine, dark
summer berry fruits with nuances of chocolate and vanilla, and more prominent
aromas of tar, undergrowth and pickling spice complexity. On the palate this wine just exudes class.
It is structured and elegant, with power and grip but not the obvious sweet and
round texture of some other examples of this DOC. It's amazing that this wine
has, like many of its ilk, 15% alcohol, as this doesn't show on the palate at
all. Clean, ripe berry fruit, and wonderful balance. The tannins show on the
finish, and undoubtedly this wine requires more time in the cellar, say three to
five years. 18+/20 (May 2003)
Label
Allegrini La Poja 1993: A lovely garnet red of moderate
intensity, which although fading a little at the rim does not show any real
signs of age. The nose is delightful although a little confusing, as it throws
up some dark, dense, almost claretty fruit with a little smoke. Meaty, slightly
metallic background notes. There is a full, slightly creamy texture, much
more so than I recall from my last tasting. Smoky cherry fruit on the palate.
Less acidity than one might imagine. Some ripe, succulent tannins through the
midpalate which serve to give only pleasure, and some nice extract too. Clean,
balanced finish - some elegance in fact. Completely ready now, but may yet
improve. In fact I'm quite taken aback by how little this has advanced over the
past few years. 18/20 (October 2004)
Allegrini La Poja 1993: It has an intense colour in
the glass, with no clues as to the age of the wine. The nose is a
complex medley of bacon, coffee and red fruits, developing herbaceous
and peppery notes with time. It has a medium bodied palate, with some
drying tannins and nicely balanced acidity. Quite rich fruits on the
palate - cherries and plums - but also a clean, slightly austere mineral
note. Elegant, rather than opulent. A smooth finish, with those tannins
showing up again. An excellent food wine - went well with some rare
fillet steak.
18/20 (June 2000)
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