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Gutsverwaltung von Schubert-Grünhaus
All accounts of the great vineyards of the Mosel, Saar and Ruwer seem to start with a brief lesson in ancient history, and the Gutsverwaltung von Schubert-Grünhaus estate, perhaps more commonly referred to as Maximin Grünhaus, is no exception. This is because many such estates date back to when these lands were part of Gaul, and as such fell under the dominion of the Roman Empire in the 1st Century. Evidence of the Roman presence still exists today in the shape of amphitheatres, bath houses and even riverside wine press-houses such as the one at Piesport. And although the vines will have been replanted many times (these early vineyards were more likely to have been populated with Elbling which dominated Germany's vineyards through to the late Middle Ages, before yielding to the higher quality Riesling of today), the vineyards were also established at this time; those of Maximin Grünhaus are no exception.
The first evidence of the existence of the Maximin Grünhaus estate dates from the latter part of the 10th Century; documents currently held in the French National Library in Paris reveal that on February 6th, 966 the great and holy Roman Emperor Otto I gifted the land to the Benedictine Monastery of St Maximin in Trier. This was in fact the origin of the estate's name, the suffix of Grünhaus referring to the green house, with extensive cellars, that lay at the foot of the vine-covered hill to the north. Under monastic supervision the estate flourished, the wine both a commercial success as well as an essential part of monastic life, served both at dinner and during religious ceremonies. By the 16th Century Riesling began to usurp Elbling as queen of the German vines, and the monks renewed their vineyards, which were now subdivided into three plots, Abtsberg, Bruderberg and Herrenberg, based on the quality that each produced.
In
1802, however, the tenure of the Benedictine order that had cared for the estate
across more than eight hundred vintages came to an abrupt end. Under Napoleonic
rule, the monasteries were taken and sold as secularised property by the French
Government; at a Paris auction in 1810 Maximin Grünhaus was purchased by Baron
von Handel. And so the property was passed down to his descendents, his grandson
being responsible for the construction of the Kavalierhaus, the grand mansion
which is the centre of the estate today and which is still central to the beautifully
ornate labels, alongside the von Schubert crest, a design unchanged since 1904.
In 1882 the estate was sold to Freiherr von Stumm-Halberg, who gifted it to his
daughter, Ida, on the occasion of her wedding to General Conrad von Schubert. By
this route the property eventually came to its current proprietor, Carl von
Schubert, the General's great-grandson. Carl has been in charge since 1981 when
his father, Andreas, retired. Throughout this time he has been ably assisted by
Alfons Heinrich, who has worked at the estate for over fifty years, and fills
the roles of both winemaker and vineyard manager. In latter years, they have
been joined by Stefan Kraml, who is being groomed as Heinrich's replacement.
There
are three vineyards at Maximin Grünhaus, a contiguous 34 hectare sweep of vines on a south facing slope
on the Grüneberg, running down to a tributary of the Ruwer, barely a mile before
this river, itself little more than a brook, merges with the Mosel a few miles
downstream from Trier. These three sites are all monopoles, to use a
French term; vineyards that are in the sole ownership of a single estate. As
such the labels are not required to follow the usual
village-vineyard maxim
that is otherwise the rule, and the wines are simply declared as Maximin
Grünhäuser. The three sites are as follows:
- Abtsberg: about 14 hectares located on the steepest part of the hill, an enclosed einzellage the entrance to which is through an arched gateway. The soils consist of weathered, blue Devonian slate. Certainly of first growth quality and the better of the three sites, the wines were reserved for the Abbot of Maximin Grünhaus, hence the vineyard was named Abtsberg. Today the wines are the most austere and minerally of the trio, and they require long ageing to show their best.
- Herrenberg: the largest vineyard, a mix of red and blue slate, approximately 19 hectares, the vines run up the midsection of the hill to its peak. Another walled vineyard with gateway, this site is also of very high quality, and the name indicates that the wines were reserved for the monks of the order. The red slate character imposes a more approachable style on the wines, although they are very close to those of Abtsberg in terms of absolute quality.
- Bruderberg: a small vineyard of deep, weathered slate, about 1 hectare in size, to the east of Abtsberg, near the foot of the hill. Good wines reserved for the Benedictine novices, hence the name (bruder translates as 'brother'), but not of the quality of those from Herrenberg and Abtsberg. As such the wines, today, are not exported, although they remain popular on the German market.
The vineyards are cared for using organic methods, and the fruit harvested by hand in up to seven passes through the vineyard. Yields are typically 45 hl/ha across the whole estate. Fermentation is seen through using a modern and well equipped cellar with minimal intervention, although many of the wines then go into old oak casks for a period of maturation. A large proportion is bottled as trocken and halbtrocken, styles which account for well over half of the estate's output, but it is the traditional Prädikat wines, kabinett to eiswein, that shine most.
The
vineyards are not ideal for the highly sweet beerenauslese or
trockenbeerenauslese styles, but eiswein is frequently possible. Carl von
Schubert caught the eiswein bug when
studying at the Kloster Eberbach, where he observed the harvest in the Steinberg
vineyard in deepest winter, the vines having been protected from rain and birds
by plastic sheeting through the closing of autumn. Back at the Grünhaus estate
he put this into practice, although he admits that early on there were
difficulties with the new technique, including inadequate frost (with the 1982
vintage he was still waiting for temperatures to drop sufficiently low in March
1983) and mould beneath the plastic covers. With the introduction of a
breathable material this latter problem was overcome, and through the 1990s
there have been some high quality wines produced as a result, and not only
eiswein. The new material encouraged healthy botrytis, facilitating in one or
two vintages the creation of the super-rich, botrytis influenced beerenauslese
or trockenbeerenauslese styles after all.
The wines of Maximin Grünhaus are reputedly some of the greatest of all Germany, and certainly dominate the Ruwer along with those from the Karthäuserhof estate. They can be taut and minerally, with great depth and longevity, particularly those from Abtsberg. Those from the Herrenberg are a little more warm and welcoming in character, but much depends on the Prädikat also. Like all estates at the top of the tree, there are those inclined to knock it, but in my experience recent vintages are still excellent. If anything, it is that there are new challenges from throughout the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer as other winemakers raise their game. But the quality of Maximin Grünhaus remains, as evidenced by recent tastings of select wines from the 2001 vintage. (11/2/02, updated 30/11/06)
Contact details:
Address: 54318 Grünhaus-Mertesdorf
Telephone: +33 (0) 651 5111
Fax: +33 (0) 651 52122
Internet:
www.vonschubert.com
Gutsverwaltung von Schubert-Grünhaus - Tasting Notes
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Maximin Grünhäuser Abtsberg Riesling Kabinett 2001: Pale straw, a hint of
green. Lovely nose, deep and complex, so much more appealing than last year when
it started off in such a blowsy and unfocussed style. This is now earthy,
minerally, with notes of spiced peach, pear and lychee and an aromatic,
bacon-tinged character. Luxuriant with complexity, this is a delight. Fresh, yet
deep and meaty on the palate, with a full, masculine style and plenty of
rounded-off style and good acidity to keep it lively. Very impressive, but has
much to do in the cellar yet. But it has developed so much since October last
year, when I found it simple and overly perfumed, and marked it down accordingly. 18+/20
(November 2006) AP Nr. 3 536 014 14 02
Maximin Grünhäuser Abtsberg Riesling Kabinett 2001: A very floral, aromatic,
nose, initially very sweet and simply perfumed. But with air the wine settles
down, finding a more pleasing, restrained, elegant set of white fruit and
mineral-talcum aromas to exhibit, with just a subtle floral twist. Very fresh
palate, off-dry, balanced, still a little simply sweet at present, but with
obvious potential for the cellar. Good. Tasted at
Howie's. 16+/20 (October 2005) AP Nr. 3 536 014 14 02
Maximin Grünhäuser Abtsberg Riesling Spätlese 2001: A pale, green-tinged hue, but with a fabulous
nose, showing an elegant almost ethereal blend of honey and fresh dew,
supporting some rocky, mineral, smoky characteristics. This has a great
character which continues on the palate, which is vibrant, light-footed, with
lime and mineral notes, yet also broad with a little honey and richness flitting
in and out. This is beautifully composed, and bodes so well for the future. I
will enjoy the next five bottles! 18+/20 (November 2006) AP Nr. 3 536 014 18 02
Maximin Grünhäuser Herrenberg Riesling Auslese 188 2001: A pure yellow-gold hue with a tinge of green. On the
nose, youthful notes, the sweetness of baked apple skins, but the freshness of
dessert apples, with considerable intensity. The palate is not luscious or huge,
rather it is finely delineated, with notes of honey and toast mixed in with the
apples, but all framed in a gentle texture and a precise acidity. There is
depth, and a great length, but overall it is rather coiled and withdrawn
at present; finely tuned rather than opulent, this infantile wine has plenty to give
yet. It needs another five years yet, as a bare minimum. 18+/20 (November 2006) AP Nr. 3 536 014 21 02
Maximin Grünhäuser Abtsberg Riesling Kabinett 1999: Fine, delicate, fresh and
vigorous. Perfectly poised on the palate, refreshing and very complete in style.
A really fine choice for both the pork terrine and sea bass, and even matched a
number of my cheeses very well indeed. Lovely wine, approachable now, but with
fine potential. Tasted at Number One.
17+/20 (May 2007)
Maximin Grünhäuser Herrenberg Riesling Kabinett 1998: A vibrant, pale green wine, which has a
delightfully expressive nose; mineral and smoky, explosively so at first, with
little notes of lime leaves when cooler, and nuances of beeswax, apples and more
as it warms in the glass. Fresh, yet textured with a lovely weight, tightly
compacted wine with a vibrant lime quality like that on the nose at first.
Freshly balanced acidity, quite resonant through the midpalate, fanning out on
the finish to give a little toast and honey here. Running through it all is a
tangible, rocky character. This is really fine, and is still on the way up. Not
for serving too cool. 17.5+/20 (November 2006) AP Nr. 3 536 014 10 99
Maximin Grünhäuser Abtsberg Riesling Kabinett
1998: A fairly pale wine this, with just a hint of
green-golden hue to it. The nose is surprisingly expressive, and suggests this
is a touch richer then your average Kabinett wine. There is plenty of lemon and
lime fruit, with classic nuances of slate as well. The palate confirms my
suspicions, with quite a substantial weight in the mouth for a Kabinett, with
good sweetness. This is balanced by a gentle, tingling but perfectly correct
acidity. There are delicious flavours, of honeysuckle, lemon and lime fruit, and
yes, slate. A great finish, with a prickly, almost herbetty effervescent
character (without any actual fizz). Positively mouth watering. 17/20 (February 2002)
AP Nr: 3 536 014 11 99
Label
Maximin Grünhäuser Herrenberg Riesling Spätlese 1995: TThis wine is a golden yellow colour hiding the green
tinge that often belies the Riesling grape. At first the
wine gives little on the nose, seeming quite tight,
although there is a definite floral elegance. With time more rich aromas
develop, classic petrol fumes, with pungent smoke, flint and
slate character. This impressive nose leads to a beautifully
fresh, deliciously textured palate, which has both body and
elegance. The flint and slate notes come through, culminating in
a strong mineral element on the finish. The flavours linger for
some time. Delicious stuff.
17/20 (January 2002)
AP Nr: 3 536 014 13 96
Label
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