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Joh. Jos. Christoffel Erben
For
over four hundred years the Christoffel family have tended their vines in their
little corner of the Mosel. Through the late 20th Century Hilde and Hans Leo
Christoffel were the latest generation to hold tenure, and under their direction
the wines of this noble estate, from a small collection of holdings in the most
prestigious vineyards, always remained in the top echelons of all Mosel wine.
But then in 2001 things changed; for Hans Leo it was time to ease back from the
strenuous work in the vineyard, for the sake of his health. He has a daughter,
but he had no heir apparent to the estate; and so it is Robert Eymael, of Weingut
Mönchhof, enters the scene. Hans Leo and Robert strike an agreement, and since
the 2001 vintage the wines of Joh. Jos. Christoffel have been a joint venture
between the two men.
The arrangement is really quite straightforward, although it has not been without complications. Hans Leo remains the owner of the estate, and continues to be involved in the cellar; the wines are made with his consultation, and are marketed with his backing. He has not sold out to Eymael, who merely rents the Christoffel vines, and who has augmented the Christoffel portfolio with some choice plots originally from the Mönchhof estate. It is this that has caused a little controversy; the original Joh. Jos. Christoffel estate amounted to just 2.2 ha, with Hans Leo turning out a very finite selection of wines of extremely high quality. Expanding the estate meant increased availability, and when they didn't sell as well as might be expected some found their way onto the US market at bargain-basement prices, with obvious consequences for the perceived image of Hans Leo's estate. This seems to be a mere blip, however, and quality has not plummeted ever downwards despite the shift in management. The wines of the 2004 and 2005 vintages are reputed to be everything that they should be - which is, in short, superb; Eymael and Christoffel are clearly settling into their new working relationship.
The
estate is based in Ürzig, one of the Middle Mosel's great wine villages, famed
for the Würzgarten (spice garden) vineyard. Both Eymael and Christoffel
hold vines in this site, named for its distinctive, rich and warmly spiced
wines. Here the Mosel turns from a northerly direction to the east, as it
meanders towards Koblenz where it meets the Rhine, the flow of the river as it
turns exposing steep slopes, with a gradient up to 70% in places, formed from well-worn
Devon slate characterised by distinctive red bands. It is this particular soil
which is said to give the wines their elegant, racy yet spiced character. There
are also vines in Erdener Treppchen, another great vineyard, just immediately
downriver. It is fascinating to note that these are almost all on their original
roots, with only two plots grafted onto American rootstocks to protect the
plants from Phylloxera. Such vinous jewels are rare, and should be treasured.
The range of wines produced reaches dizzy heights of quality, starting at the QbA level, running through an impressive selection of up to five stunning Ausleses, distinguished by a star system. They are vinified in the Christoffel cellar; although Eymael may have blurred the distinction between the Christoffel and Mönchhof vines, the wines are certainly kept quite separate, with two very distinct styles. The Christoffel style remains one of bright, racy vibrancy under Eymael's direction. In short, I love these wines and hope, under Mönchhof's direction, that long may this fabulous quality be maintained. (14/9/06)
Contact details:
Address: Weingüter Mönchhof & Joh. Jos. Christoffel Erben, Mönchhof, D-54539,
Ürzig
Telephone: +49 (0) 6532 93164
Fax: +49 (0) 6532 93166
Internet: www.moenchhof.de
Joh. Jos. Christoffel Erben - Tasting Notes
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Joh. Jos. Christoffel Erben Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Spätlese 2006: As with all the Christoffel wines I have tasted in
recent years, this is bottled under screwcap. On inspection it has a fairly unremarkable pale hue with a tinge of
green, but with a plentiful supply of bubbles of residual carbon dioxide coating
the inside of the glass. The nose, however, is remarkable and certainly fine,
showing an attractive melding of
bright fruit and minerals, honey-tinged pears, peaches, apples and
flowers, with a fresh and slightly chalky edge. This is exotic and exuberant. A lovely palate follows, rich but
well composed, bright with fresh acidity, and with waves of fruit passing over the palate,
going right through to the finish. The length is considerable. This is very good
wine indeed, delicious now and so full of life, fun and flavour, but surely with the
potential to do things in the cellar for ten or twenty years. For label images and more see my
Wine of the Week
write-up. 17.5+/20 (June 2008)
AP Nr. 2 602 041 005 07
Joh. Jos. Christoffel Erben Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Kabinett Trocken
2005:
A moderately pale hue with a certain tinge of green. Really very attractive on
the nose which is fruit-dominated, showing fresh pear and dessert apple aromas
blended with a sweeter, slightly tropical, fruit salad character, with little
lychee and bacon complexities. A little crisp mineral too. Lovely prickle of
carbon dioxide on entry although this disappears in time, but the palate
remains quite precise through to the finish. Rounded, fairly broad, with a
complex, mineral spice developing towards the endpalate. Slightly austere rather
than tender finish, but very appealing nevertheless. Beautiful. For label images
and more see my
Wine of the Week
write-up.
17/20 (August 2006) AP Nr. 2 602 041 002 06.
Joh. Jos. Christoffel Erben Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Kabinett 2005:
Again a pale hue, almost spring water clear although with a faint hint of
yellow-green hue. There follows such a lovely, open, lifted nose, full of pear
and peach stones, apples and talcy minerals, wet pebble and the freshness of
crashing surf. This vivacity carries through onto the palate, which shows some
2005 fatness although with delightful, precise, very well defined fruit and
acidity. There is a crisp edge, with a little spritz just like the Trocken
version, keeping it fresh and lively on the palate. Again a broad, filled out
style, although with a much greater persistence on the finish. This and the
trocken are both prime examples of their respective styles, although with
the caveat that they reflect the richness of the vintage. My personal preference
is for this wine over the previous, but in terms of intrinsic quality they are
exceptionally close. 17/20 (August 2006) AP Nr. 2
602 041 004 06
Joh. Jos. Christoffel Erben Erdener Treppchen Riesling Kabinett 2005:
A similarly pale colour here, but perhaps just a little more vibrant and precise
on the nose than the Ürz-Würz. A rich and ripe pear fruit character, with some
minerally apple. The palate is full but beautifully balanced, with a very
incisive and spritzy acidity coming through on the midpalate, and carrying the
wine right through to the finish. Very broad and appealing, and showing a
greater length on the finish. Blackcurrant leaf. Just delightful, although
plainly displaying the richness of the vintage, as with the preceding wines. By a
whisker, this is my favourite from these three. 17.5/20 (August 2006) AP Nr. 2 602 041 003 06
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