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Fritz Haag

Examine any label from the Fritz Haag estate and you will see that Wilhelm (right) and Oliver Haag appear to reside in Dusemonder Hof, despite the fact that we all know they are based in Brauneberg, a small village on the Mosel, downriver from Trier. Indeed, the pair can trace their ancestry as far back as 1605, the Haag family having tended vines on these banks of the Middle-Mosel for over four centuries now.

The key to this apparent confusion is a simple change of name. Brauneberg was once known as Dusemond, from dulcis mons, latin for 'sweet mountain', suggesting that even centuries ago the wines of the hill - the Dusemonder Hof - that faces this village from the opposite bank of the Mosel had a reputation for ripe and toothsome wines. Indeed, in 1806 a classification of the vineyards of the Mosel ranked the Juffer Sonnenuhr vineyard, directly opposite the village, above all others here and above most along the Mosel. Napoleon agreed, rating the wines highly indeed, and if prices at annual Der Grosse Ring auctions are anything to judge by, the wines remain highly prized today. The most obvious difference today is on the label; since 1925 the village has been known as Brauneberg (from brown mountain - rather less romantic, I feel).

The south-facing 32 hectare Juffer vineyard, and the jewel-like central portion known as Juffer Sonnenuhr, is the most prized of Brauneberger sites. The name originates from early 18th Century, when the site was owned by a chamberlain named Wunderlich who had three daughters. These three sisters devoted themselves to this particular vineyard and, against their parents wishes, never married, and so locals christened the vineyard juffer, which is derived from jungfrau but which translates directly as 'old maid' or 'spinster'. The Juffer Sonnenuhr portion, accounting for about 10.5 hectares, runs steeply up the hillside to about the 200m mark, at a breathtaking gradient of up to 80%, as far up as the sundial (sonnenuhr) from which the vineyard takes its name. This section features deep, well-weathered slatey, stony soils and a concave depression in the hillside, two factors which help with the acquisition and retention of heat, no doubt both factors in the ripe, full-flavoured wines which are made here. The Juffer vineyard which flanks this central portion has heavier soils and less slate, and although the wines are also of very good quality they do not match those from Juffer Sonnenuhr. These sites are where the Haag family have tended their vines for the past four centuries, with 12.2 hectares of vines in their ownership. The most significant change during this time was perhaps the division of the original Ferdinand Haag estate between two sons, Fritz and Willi Haag. Weingut Fritz Haag is the larger of the two, thanks to some astute purchasing of vineyard plots, and it has been managed until very recently by Wilhelm Haag. He took the reins in 1957, at the age of just 20 years, when his father Fritz fell ill. Breaking off his education abroad in order to return to Germany his initial intention was to manage the harvest before he returned to his studies. That, however, never happened; he became a permanent fixture on the estate, and he handed control to his eldest son, Oliver, in 2005. Meanwhile, Wilhelm's other son, Thomas, runs the nearby Schloss Lieser estate.

It seems that the future of the estate is secure in the hands of Oliver and his wife Jessica Haag. Oliver studied oenology at Geisenheim, with apprenticeships at Dönnhoff and Karthäuserhof, before gaining experience at Mont du Toit in South Africa and Wegeler in Oestrich-Winkel. He enjoyed the success of the 2005 vintage, but really made his mark with the 2006, which led Armin Diel and Joel Payne of Gault Millau to award bestow their 'Collection of the Year' award on the entire Haag range that vintage. Such a short time after taking on full responsibility for the estate, this must have been a hugely reassuring endorsement.

The Fritz Haag range of wines runs the gamut, from generic estate Rieslings through the Prädikat; at all levels, up to Auslese and beyond, these wines are, in my opinion, fabulous. What makes these wines special is their combination of ripeness, flavour and yet good Riesling purity. These are not the most delicate of wines made on the Mosel, but they are not meant to be. The particular mesoclimate afforded by these special sites confer a specific character to the wines. Vintage after vintage, they have a sense of place. I adore them, and confidently rank Wilhelm Haag - and from what little I have tasted so far, also his son, Oliver - among the leading winemakers in Germany. (5/2/02, last updated 14/11/08)

Contact details:
Address: Dusemonder Hof, 54472 Brauneberg
Telephone: +49 (0) 6534 410
Fax: +49 (0) 6534 1347
Internet: www.weingut-fritz-haag.de

Fritz Haag - Tasting Notes

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Fritz Haag Riesling 2007: The estate Riesling is sourced from Juffer Sonnenuhr and other vineyards in estate ownership. It has a very expressive nose, showing notes of pear, lime and peach. It has a rather soft, gentle, talcy nature which I would expect at this level, but nevertheless it has plenty of interest. The palate is fleshy, showing a ripe and rounded character, with grip but not a lot of acidity. Basic, but good quality, and a sign of a good vintage perhaps. From my 2007 Germany assessment. 15-15.5+/20 (June 2008)

Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Kabinett 2007: This has a pungent, exotic, mineral nose. It is very appealing in its rockiness. Fleshy and tangy on the palate, showing more orange peel and lime fruit. A powdery texture, fresh, appealing and very flavoursome. Good acids, overall very good indeed. From my 2007 Germany assessment. 16.5-17+/20 (June 2008)

Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese 2007: There is a delightful, pure and bright style here, showing a gentle character endowed with honey and pear fruit. Pure, defined, lightfooted, elegant and balanced. But underneath it has depth and a great acid backbone, and a great length too. This is wonderful. From my 2007 Germany assessment. 17.5-18+/20 (June 2008)

Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese 2007: Again a pure, defined, lifted and very direct style. It is delicious, textured and yet finely balanced. There is finesse here alongside great flair and a rich core of acids. Fabulous stuff, right through to the incredibly long finish. From my 2007 Germany assessment. 18-18.5+/20 (June 2008)

Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel 2007: This has an even firmer mineral core than the preceding wines, and has a very expansive nose with an enticing character. Pure and creamy, rich and yet well defined, this has amazing quality. It is purity and direction intertwined with depth, richness and texture. This is truly excellent wine. From my 2007 Germany assessment. 18.5-19+/20 (June 2008)

Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Kabinett Trocken 2005: A very pale hue, and a charming nose, showing floral pear fruit with apple peel and a little pine kernel note. On the palate it immediately displays a fresh, spritzy style, with lovely, gently minerally, tingling acidity. Very broad, expanding across the palate, trailing juicy pear fruit with a delicious, crisp, almost sherbetty vivacity. Finely balanced, close to ethereal at times, dry but with a lovely fruit richness, finishing with a chalky-mineral flourish, this is delightful. Rather rich and voluptuous for a Kabinett, reflecting the vintage, but otherwise lovely now, but will be fine for years I am sure. 17+/20 (August 2006) AP number: 2 577 050 11 06

Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Kabinett 2005: A similar hue, but rather more fruit driven and accessible on the nose, with lots of pear and grape character, with a talcy edge. Quite plump on entry, a richer style of Kabinett reflecting the warmth of the vintage, but with an immediately apparent spritz just like the trocken, which persists through the midpalate and finish with delightful, tingling persistence. Lovely pear character with spring flower petals, all framed by a thick seam of residual sugar. Again rather rich and voluptuous for a Kabinett, but in a different style. Nevertheless equally good, and with certain potential for the cellar. 17+/20 (August 2006) AP number: 2 577 050 03 06

Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Kabinett 2003: Youthful. Herbal. A little mineral and slate. Lovely, precise palate. Considerable level of sweetness and texture for this Prädikat, reflecting vintage conditions. Chalky, mineral notes. Plush, rich. Needs cellar time, and even with just moderate acidity it should go ten years with ease. 15.5+/20 (May 2005)

Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett 1999: A pale, crystal-clear wine, with a gentle tinge of green-gold. There's a smoke and slate character to the aromas on the nose, with some stewed lime fruit. The palate really packs a punch, with upfront, fresh, zingy acidity leading the way on entry. This supports a layer of rich, limey fruit, with a touch of honeycomb. A rounded texture to the wine, and a pleasing weight complete the experience. There's a good length, during which that tingling acidity just dances on the tongue. A brilliant Kabinett, which I have rated unusually highly for such a wine. Wilhelm Haag is clearly one of the Mosel's masters. 18/20 (February 2002) AP number: 2 577 050 5 00 Label

Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Spätlese 1997: This is just singing. It shows a pure, crystal clear, pale and reassuring green-tinged hue when poured into the glass. The nose has a similar purity, throwing off notes of fresh limes with a smoky, mineral streak. There are lots of stony, rocky notes here, all presented in a fine, crisp, very expressive fashion. On the palate, it becomes even clearer - this is simply fabulous. It is well defined, yet broad and mouthfilling, quickly expanding to show a creamy, rounded character with great depth, all supporting fresh limes and minerals like those on the nose. It is brilliantly precise, with a fine presence. This is superb, certainly wonderful to drink now, but no doubt will develop further in bottle over many years. And what a bargain - £10 per bottle at auction. For label images and more see my Wine of the Week write-up. 18.5+/20 (March 2007) AP number: 2 577 050 7 98

Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Fuder 6 1997: A fairly pale but classic greenish hue. It has a lovely nose, packed with fresh, exuberant lemon and lime fruit. There's also a great mealy, oaty, perhaps minerally background character, although this only reveals itself with plenty of vigorous swirling or aeration. The palate has just superb weight, elegantly balanced with some tingling acidity, and is packed with concentrated, dense mealy fruit flavours. The wine even has a sense of power, and this doesn't fade through the finish. There's also quite a length. Fantastic drinking now, but also decades of potential. A superb wine. 18/20 (February 2002) AP number: 2 577 050 6 98 Label