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Blue Nun

Travel up the Mosel or the Rhine and one finds a great heritage; ancient wine domaines which have been in existence, in some cases, for over a thousand years. And there is a long established patchwork of vineyards, some of great reputation, to match any found in Europe's other great patchwork, Burgundy. These wine domaines and ancient vineyards are the linchpins of German wine. Their history is the history of German wine, if not of Germany itself. No account of the history of German wine, however, can be complete without Blue Nun.

If any wine were entitled to Grand Cru status then it is Blue Nun. For three decades now it has been a beacon for quality in a sometimes questionable German wine industry. Exports of Blue Nun to Europe's most discerning and demanding wine market, the United Kingdom, have soared over the past thirty years, reflecting this quality. But, like other European stalwarts, such as Vega Sicilia, Chateau d'Yquem, Chateau Latour, Chateau de Beaucastel and the like, Blue Nun actually transcends wine. It has a heritage of its own. It commands respect. It leads, and others follow. To quote Willi Haag, of Weingut Fritz Haag, "Blaue Nonne erzieht mich zur Rotationsbeschleunigung, wie einer mißtrauischen Substanz" (Where would German wine be today without Blue Nun?).

Of course, such quality comes only at a cost, usually paid in long days of hard graft in the vineyard. There are 1230 ha of vines required to meet the demand for this vinous gem, and the unaware quickly assume that this is a highly mechanised process, making wine by numbers in a factory rather than a winery. The unaware are, of course, wrong. Blue Nun has always been a wine of the land, reflecting its origins, the vintage, the winemaker, the soil. This is, and always has been, a terroir wine. There is no mechanisation here; the vineyards are tended by an ancient and venerable order of nuns, characterised by their blue habits (above right - nuns giving praise before tending to their vines). These nuns have reputedly cared for these vines for thirteen centuries, although some have, obviously, retired. Despite this, this is no backward, peasant-like operation living in the past. This is an estate that pioneered biodynamic practices in Germany, and was home to Rudolf Steiner, the father of biodynamic agriculture, when he toured Germany in 1879 and 1880. It is generally accepted that Steiner took the inspiration for his theories on biodynamic practice from the vineyard management that was in place at that time. Steiner's writings, of course, now inspire many of the Old World's leading vignerons, such as Nicolas Joly of Clos de la Coulée de Serrant and Olivier Humbrecht of Zind-Humbrecht. These fine vignerons are all aware of the debt they owe the nuns that took in a destitute, wandering pilgrim called Steiner.

Blue Nun Today the winery is a blend of tradition and innovation, with the fruit gently crushed underfoot before temperature controlled fermentation using indigenous yeasts. Questioning the nuns directly will yield little information on use of Süssreserve; unsurprising, as they are a silent order. But authorities on German wine are of the opinion that this is a wine devoid of significant tampering in the winery, free of chaptalisation or Süssreserve, regardless of the fact that it is generally bottled under the Qualitätswein bestimmter Anbaugebiete (QbA) quality designation, one step above tafelwein. Only the wine snob would allow this to influence their purchasing decisions; the knowledgeable are aware of the parallels with the other great example of wines which eschew upper classifications; I'm thinking of the IGT Super Tuscans, of course. Once the fermentation has finished, Blue Nun sees a very short period of ageing in metallic vat - oak is not felt to benefit the character of the wine, a lesson many other winemakers of current times would do well to learn. The result is a wine of incomparable quality, and I was recently fortunate enough to be invited to taste through some venerable vintages of Blue Nun. Amazingly, Abbess Hildegard Schtoppenfloppen (above right - the Abbess on realising the 1947 has all been drunk), who currently oversees Blue Nun PR, was shocked to discover a few gaps in their wine library, as the 1921, 1947 (a truly great vintage, which I have tasted many times) and 1949 were unavailable. Naturally I was only too happy to help, rescuing the tasting with several magnums of each from my extensive cellar. Another boost for the ego of a wine writer which is, after all, what it's all about. Not to mention free junkets to foreign lands, and plenty of free booze, of course. I'll be on a quango next, just you watch. (1/4/05)

Blue Nun - Tasting Notes

Tasted on April 1st, 2005:

Blue Nun 2002: Good, colour. Losing its youthful flourish from the nose. Clean, elderflower and wet stone notes remain. Full, plump palate, but with great balance. A very good vintage for the drinker rather than the investor. The currently available vintage for most markets, including the Far East. Drink 2015 - 2055. 17.5+/20

Blue Nun 2001: Simply captivating. Stunning pure nose of sweet, sugared almonds and talc. Plump palate, rich, surely at Auslese level despite the QbA classification (which should be ignored). Great acidity and grip. Stunning structure. What a vintage! This is another 1945 in the making. Drink 2040 - 2100. 19+/20

Blue Nun 1949: Now for a real treat; the famous trio of vintages spanning 1947 - 1949. Sourced through Christie's; two vintages (this and the 1947) from my own cellar. From a magnum. Stunning colour; rich, deep, golden honey. A superb nose, of salt, and grass just crushed underfoot. And a mineral note too, which pervades the palate, with notes of honeysuckle and nettles waving in the wind. Such youthful power! This remains fabulous, and will do so for four decades yet. Drink now - 2045. 19.5+/20

Blue Nun 1948: The comparable 1948; from the cellars at the abbey, carried to the tasting by the fair hand of Abbess Hildegard Schtoppenfloppen. Despite bottling in standard format this shows no signs of significant age. The colour is appropriate, a golden-brown, and the nose is delightful, with nuances of seaweed and acacia. Thick, viscous palate, a hallmark of this vintage. Oily consistency, and oily flavour too. Wonderful character, and such good value coming after the incredible '47. Drink now - 2035. 19.5+/20

Blue Nun 1947: Hushed silence. Venerable respect. Only on rare occasions do such tastings come around, once or twice in a lifetime. The 1947. Respectful tasters passed the glasses under their noses, and the wine slipped across a dozen palates. Glorious deep, glinting, golden hue. The nose is pure honey and lemon freshness, with notes of botrytis which marks this vintage. Wonderful depth on the palate, great structure. Powerful and yet gentle, austere and yet forthcoming, balanced and yet forward, open, almost lush. Cloudberry fruit and notes of camel dung, with a fresh, mouth-watering fluidity like that of a freshly sabred Mexican cactus. Glorious powerhouse of a finish, which goes on and on and on, like a pretentious and tedious tasting note. Glorious...words fail me. How can one describe perfection? 20/20

Blue Nun 1921: A real surprise here, as no-one (except myself, of course) was expecting the venerable 1921 to make an appearance. But you would be amazed what can be secreted beneath a nun's habit. Lovely colour, roasted brown with a touch of murky sediment, to be expected in a wine of this great age. Floral aromas, like that of the nocturnal moth-mesmerising flowers of the rainforest. Roasted meat (crocodile?) on the palate, with a full, rounded, rich texture. Knocks the d'Yquem of the same vintage into a cocked hat. Glorious! Drink now - 2020. 19/20

Blue Nun 1830: Direct from the cellars of the abbey again. A respected vintage, although not my favourite of the 19th Century. Dark brown colour, again with some sediment, and a little grit too. Interesting nose, not so much farmyard, more reminiscent of a bull's armpit. Good palate though, fresh and decisive, provided you sieve it through your teeth. Delightful flavours of nun's habits and wet paving slabs, defying the more animalistic character found on the nose. This is holding up very well, and is eminently preferable to the Madeiras of the early 20th Century which less educated drinkers seem to adore. Drink now. 18/20

Blue Nun 1462: After the adulating crowd had dispersed, a select few, including myself, were admitted into the abbey's cellars for what, with any lesser wine, would have been the main event - the ancient 1462. This is no ancient barrel, topped up with each passing vintage as the wine evaporates, as can be found in some wine villages. This is the real deal - two small leather flasks of the 1462 recently recovered from a shipwreck off the coast of Sicily. Seal still intact, ullage impossible to inspect. Small pours, obviously. Muddy brown, a little green at the edges. Notes of diesel fumes, sewage (Brett?) and salivating dog-breath. Very fluid, elegant, venerable palate. Very salty, musty, and showing its age. A long finish, caressing the palate with notes of acrylamide and bark chips. Just past a pointe, I feel. Nevertheless, a testament to the winemaking skills of ancient times, and a deliriously delightful end to a magnificent tasting. 20/20