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Duval-Leroy

Duval-Leroy remains, at the beginning of the 21st Century, a family-owned firm; for that we should be grateful, as Champagne has already had more than its fair share of big business buyouts. Also, the range of wines has a number of surprisingly good high-points (although there are also some low-points), considering that this name is not one bandied about alongside other favourites such as Bollinger or Pol Roger; yet another reason to be grateful. Duval-Leroy is perhaps a name with which we should be a little more familiar.

Established in 1859, Duval-Leroy has been, for over a century, an 'also-ran'. Good wines were made here, but nothing to challenge the real grandes-marques of Champagne. In recent years, however, this situation has been turned around. The change came in 1991, when Carol Duval-Leroy took on the mantle of running the family firm, following the death of her husband. Carol's dynamic influence on the company, together with the applied skills of winemaker Hervé Jestin, has been a great benefit. Since she assumed control, quality at Duval-Leroy has soared, and during the 1990s the wines were easily of the quality one expects from a grande marque. Carol shifted the focus of Duval-Leroy away from producing Buyer's-Own-Brand wines, and turned her attention to building up the Duval-Leroy brand. Updating, innovating and improving was the name of the game. Many of the wines which today form part of the Duval-Leroy range have been introduced by Carol during the 1990s, including the Femme prestige cuvée. Her influence has been considerable, and it extends beyond the limits of her own house; in 2007 Carol Duval-Leroy became the first woman to take up the position of president of the Association Viticole Champenoise, a local trade organisation.

Duval-Leroy is based in Vertus, a village in the Côte de Blancs, and is now one of the largest land-owners in all Champagne. The firm owns vineyards in all the Grand Cru villages of the Côte des Blancs. A number of the wines reflect this location, as they demonstrate a certain quality of Chardonnay not to be found elsewhere. The house style here is elegance, freshness, with good fruit. This should be carried throughout the range, which is extensive, including several non-vintage cuvées, rosés and prestige wines.

The entry level non-vintage is the Fleur de Champagne Brut, sourced from twenty crus in the Montagne de Reims and Côte des Blancs. There is also a Fleur de Champagne Premier Cru, sourced from appropriate vineyards in these regions. The vintage cuvée is mostly Grand Cru, from the Vallée de la Marne, Montagne de Reims and Côte des Blancs. The Blanc de Chardonnay and Extra Brut are both also all Grand Cru. The two rose non-vintage wines are both 100% Pinot Noir, and are made by the saignée method, where the juice is run off the skins once it has taken on sufficient colour. This method reputedly, and I do not disagree, gives a higher quality product than the process of mixing red wine with the wine to produce the desired colour, which is legal in Champagne (although not for AC wines elsewhere in France) and which is a much simpler and thus more widely practised technique.

The prestige cuvées include the non-vintage Collection Paris, which comes in an attractively shaped bottle, bearing an image of Paris by American artist LeRoy Nieman. Nieman and Carol Duval-Leroy are friends, and the image was one sketched on a napkin by the artist when staying with the Duval-Leroy family. The two struck a deal; Nieman designed the bottle for the new Paris cuvée, and Duval-Leroy was permitted to use the image. Subtle this isn't; the gold image, silk-screened onto a blue bottle, looks impressive, but the contents don't quite live up to the packaging in my experience. I preferred the straight Fleur de Champagne. The Cuvée Leroy Nieman, a Chardonnay-dominated vintage wine from five Grands Crus including Avize, Mesnil sur Oger, Ay, Chouilly and Cramant, as well as Vertus (a Premier Cru). This fairs somewhat better than the Paris, and illustrates the special relationship that must exist between Duval-Leroy and Nieman. The Cuvée des Roys is another similar Chardonnay-heavy blend, from a slightly wider selection of Grand Cru villages. The best portion of the harvest, however, is saved for Cuvée Femme, sourced from selected plots in Avize, Ay, Chouilly and Oger.

Finally, in what is an extensive (and perhaps a little confusing) range of wines, come the Authentis cuvées. Unlike all the former wines these are fermented in oak rather than stainless steel, and includes a Petit Meslier, an ancient grape of which only about 20 ha remain in all Champagne. Credit is due Duval-Leroy for adding this unusual wine to their portfolio. There is also Trépail, Chardonnay from Premier Cru village Trépail, and Cumières, Pinot Noir from Premier Cru village Cumières. (21/7/05, updated 11/1/08)

Contact details:
Address: 69 avenue de Bammental, 51130 Vertus
Telephone: +33 (0) 3 26 52 10 75
Fax: +33 (0) 3 26 52 37 10
Internet: www.duval-leroy.com

Duval-Leroy - Tasting Notes

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Duval-Leroy Authentis Clos des Bouveries 2004: A rather reticent but smoky nose here, fruit with a steely-citrus edge. It starts off very softly on the palate, broad and a little sherbetty in the middle, with a good acid core and nice mousse. Firm, well composed, and a lot of structure here. I think this should be pretty good given time - another success for this vintage. From the 2009 annual Champagne Tasting. 16.5-17+/20 (March 2009)

Duval-Leroy Authentis Le Clos des Bouveries 2002: If I recall correctly, Authentis cuvées are fermented in oak. This doesn't show through today, as this wine is very closed down. On the palate it displays a sharp, steely structure, very primary in character, and very simple. There is a huge structure. It is difficult to assess a wine so brutally naked, but I think this could be very good given time. From the 2007 Champagne Information Bureau Tasting. 15.5+/20

Duval-Leroy Fleur de Champagne Blanc de Chardonnay 1999: A pretty nose, and an attractively styled wine, with a very well framed composition. Firm, stylish, upright, with a good balance of components. Lots of appealing white fruits typical of a blanc de blancs style, backed by good firm acidity. There are some really appealing elements to the wine. From the 2008 annual Champagne tasting. 17+/20 (March 2008)

Duval-Leroy Blanc de Chardonnay 1998: Chardonnay from the Côte des Blancs, from five Grand Cru villages. A very fresh style, with some honeycomb notes on the nose. Lovely palate, showing freshness combined with body. Good firm mousse. Great persistence. This is very good, and deserves 3-5 years in the cellar. 16.5+/20 (February 2005)

Duval-Leroy Authentis Petit Meslier 1998: A fascinating wine; 100% Pinot Meslier, sourced from Venteuil in the Vallée de la Marne. It sees some oak. Very unusual nose, difficult to equate with what I expect from Champagne, and difficult to describe too. Quite citrus in character, grapefruit particularly, with a suggestion of roasted white fruits. Good mousse. Huge acidity, carrying great freshness, but also huge flavour. The oak is in evidence as well. It certainly has uniqueness value. 16.5+/20 (February 2005)

Duval-Leroy Extra Brut 1997: 80% C, 20% PN from the Côte des Blancs, Vallée de la Marne and Montagne de Reims. A blend of six Grands Crus, including Mesnil sur Oger and Cramant, with Premier Cru Vertus. Good hue. Brilliant, fresh nose, very much Chardonnay in style. Lovely, very dry palate, with great body and texture. I like this very much - it would be great with food. 17/20 (February 2005)

Duval-Leroy Brut 1996: Clean, fairly stylish nose, fairly expressive, showing a little nutty character. Elegant, minerally, lemon-thyme palate. Fresh, reserved, balanced, with soft acidity. There is good quality here although its clearly a little muted at present, but it stands up well to the sea of other vintages here. I suspect this will come good in the cellar. From the annual Champagne Information Bureau Tasting. 16+/20 (March 2006)

Duval-Leroy Cuvée Leroy Nieman 1996: 85% C, 15% PN. Côte des Blancs, Vallée de la Marne and Montagne de Reims again. Stylish, honeyed nose. Firm acidity on the palate, showing a soft, slightly creamy mousse which fades. Quite elegant and vinous, honeyed edge. Needs 3-5 years. Very good. 16.5+/20 (February 2005)

Duval-Leroy Femme de Champagne 1996: This is 79% Chardonnay and 21% Pinot Noir from Grand Cru vineyards. About 7% was fermented in oak, and the wine disgorged in 2008. The sugar is 4.5 g/l. The nose has a vinous, minerally-peppery nose, harmonious, with elements of polished wood. The palate has the firm acidity of this excellent vintage, but with co-existent finesse and elegance. Underneath lies the latent power of the vintage. Very long finish, too. Excellent potential. From the 2009 annual Champagne Tasting. 18+/20 (March 2009)

Duval-Leroy Femme 1995: 76% C, 24% PN for this vintage, from the Côte des Blancs, Vallée de la Marne and Montagne de Reims. Lovely, enticing nose, with maturing coffee. This finesse is carried through onto the palate, which has great balance, with a soft, rounded, creamy structure. Some nice concentration here. Coffee-biscuit notes, reflecting the dominant Chardonnay portion. This has excellent style now, but will continue to improve. Drinking now. 17+/20 (February 2005)

Tasting notes are ordered by date of tasting, most recent first. I have tried to indicate whether it is a tasting of a new release, or of a wine I have cellared.

Duval-Leroy Fleur de Champagne Premier Cru NV: Current release. Quite an attractive nose here, with polished, dried fruits to the fore. A good composition on the palate, with a little sweetness to the fruit, and a little sherbet too. All in all it is a nicely rounded package with a little honey and nut at the edges. Attractive potential. From the 2008 annual Champagne tasting. 15.5+/20 (March 2008)

Duval-Leroy Fleur de Champagne Premier Cru NV: New release. Very open and evocative nose, full of smoky, floral fruit. Still showing a little sulphur although this is not a problem here. A creamy mousse, very attractive, quite rounded overall, a touch nutty. Bright and fresh, a good style, which will come together quite nicely with a little time. Very good. From the 2007 Champagne Information Bureau Tasting. 16+/20 (March 2007)

Duval-Leroy Rosé de Saignée NV: New release. A remarkable pale wine here, barely pink at all. The nose has a soft, unappetising canned strawberry quality, with a sweet edge. This continues onto the palate, with a certain confected edge, and a tin can nervousness on he finish. Drinkable, if you must. From the annual Champagne Information Bureau Tasting. 14.5/20 (March 2006)

Duval-Leroy Fleur de Champagne Demi-Sec NV: New release. Rich, sweet, flowery, perfumed, soapy nose. A full, rich and creamy presence on the palate, but with nice, fresh acidity. Rather foamy again though, rather simple, one-dimensional. Decent at best. From the annual Champagne Information Bureau Tasting. 14/20 (March 2006)

Duval-Leroy Fleur de Champagne Brut NV: New release. 80% C, 20% PN, a blend of twenty crus from Montagne de Reims and Côte des Blancs. An obvious lemon sherbet nose. Full, very fresh palate, with firm acidity. A rather sharp mousse, which fades quickly. Will improve in the short term. Good. 16+/20 (February 2005)

Duval-Leroy Collection Paris NV: New release. A brut non-vintage blend, although different to that marketed as Fleur de Champagne; this has 40% C and 60% PN, again sourced from the main Champagne regions. Fancy bottle - clearly an 'upmarket' position. Fresh nose, with notes of iodine. Full, plenty of unusual salty iodine notes here too. Subtle flavour otherwise. Soft mousse, but plenty of acidity. Drink now. Good. 15.5/20 (February 2005)

Duval-Leroy Rosé de Saignée NV: New release. 100% PN from Vertus. Saignée method, as the name suggests. Pink, onion-skin hue. Lots of leafy red fruit on the nose. Full flavour. Plentiful fresh, red fruits caressed by a gentle mousse. Very firm acidity. Should improve in the short term. Good. 16/20 (February 2005)

Duval-Leroy Lady Rosé NV: New release. 100% PN from Vertus. Saignée method. Dosage 25 g/l. I think this is intended "for the ladies" to drink, hence the name. Red fruit nose. Full, sweet, creamy. Firm acidity. Very soft, creamy mousse. A somewhat flabby style. Lacks focus. I don't recommend this one. 14/20 (February 2005)

Duval-Leroy Brut NV: Purchased Spring 2001. A very pale, creamy-lemon wine, with a nose of apples and even a hint of pineapple, and later on some bready notes. Strong acidity on the palate, with some fairly simple fruit flavours and a coarse mousse. I drank many bottles of this; latter ones showed much better with more time in the cellar. Good value, at a reduced price of £6.99. 16/20 (May 2001)