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Dumangin

The little house of Dumangin was founded by Hippolyte Dumangin in the 1890s. His descendents have maintained control of their domaine through five generations, with Gilles Dumangin, Hippolyte's great, great grandson now in charge, still assisted by his father, Jacky. The two run this successful family business from their base in Chigny-les-Roses, a small Premier Cru village lying on the Montagne de Reims, almost directly between Reims and Epernay. Jacky and Gilles tend five hectares of vineyards, scattered around Chigny-les-Roses and the nearby villages of Rilly-la-Montagne, Ludes and Taissy, the latter a little further north, right on the outskirts of Reims. The Montagne de Reims, Champagne's most northerly region, is Pinot country, and both Pinots feature quite heavily in the Dumangin portfolio.

Having said that, one of Jacky's main contributions to the Dumangin portfolio has been the Premium non-vintage cuvée, a blanc de blancs sourced from a single vineyard just outside Chigny-les-Roses, so this is certainly not a one-trick estate. It is an exception to the rule, however, as an examination of the other Dumangin wines reveals a preponderance for Pinots Meunier and Noir: The non-vintage cuvées are legion, and begin with the Brut Grande Réserve, a blend of 50% Pinot Munier, 25% Pinot Noir and 25% Chardonnay; it includes an impressive 60% reserve wines, blended with 40% from the most recent vintage. Moving up and down the dosage scale gives us the non-vintage demi-sec Cuvée Argentée, also employing the Pinot Meunier dominated 50/25/25 blend, and the Extra-Brut, where the dosage contains just 2 g/l of residual sugar. There is also a Brut Rosé, a blend of 85% Champagne, in this case 54% Chardonnay and 46% Pinot Noir, with 15% red wine which is solely Pinot Meunier. Bringing up the rear are two wines which superficially seem to have a degree of marketing attached, the first being the Brut 17, a blend of approximately one third each of Chardonnay and the two Pinots, with young rather than reserve wines dominating the mix. Although I have not tasted this it is described as a lively, fruit-driven cuvée for unfussy drinking, and is named for the vat in which it was first blended. The other is a non-vintage blanc de noirs cuvée called 8 STAR, the latest addition to the range, notable for its red bottle. Again, I haven't tasted this wine.

There is just one vintage wine, the Brut Vintage, which like the rosé is also a blend of 54% Chardonnay and 46% Pinot Noir, in every vintage since the 1988. There are also releases of mature wines ten years after the vintage, essentially creating a Dumangin Vinothèque range as well. The total output of this domaine is about 7500 cases per annum, although there are interesting sidelines including Champagne vinegar and other Champagne related products. The wines themselves strike me as being of good quality, rather soft and welcoming, and in the relevant cuvées they show some firm Pinot character which I rather enjoy. (7/9/06)

Contact details:
Address: 3, rue de Rilly - 51500 Chigny Les Roses
Telephone: +33 (0) 3 26 03 46 34
Fax: +33 (0) 3 26 03 45 61
Internet: www.champagne-dumangin.fr

Dumangin - Tasting Notes

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2000

Dumangin Brut 2000: There are some sweet, crystalline fruits on the nose here, with just a little sulphur. A lovely palate, a little creamy, with a caressing mousse in the midpalate. Attractive, flattering rather than overly serious, rounded and gentle. This will make pleasant drinking in the near future. From the 2008 annual Champagne tasting. 15.5+/20 (March 2008)

1999

Dumangin Brut 1999: Rather muted. Also rather chemical. A soft, rather gritty structure, but with smoky, burnt twig, sherbet and citrus flavours alongside. Light honeycomb and steel notes. This seems curiously undistinguished, which is disappointing. From the 2007 Champagne Information Bureau Tasting. 15/20 (March 2007)

Dumangin Brut 1999: Remarkably closed nose. There's barely a hint that there is even a wine in the glass. Soft, accessible palate, which starts with some perfumed fruit, with a chalky edge, and then reveals an intense acid structure. This has some potential but I find it difficult to judge in its present state. From the 2006 Champagne Information Bureau Tasting. 15/20 (March 2006)

1998

Dumangin Brut 1998: A blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir which has a very appealing pale straw-gold hue with a tinge of brass. Quite fine and complex on the nose, with a bready-biscuity base supporting notes of tangerines, blackberry leaf and smoky butter. Really rather stylish on the palate, once it opens up, showing an appealing balance and integrated, mineral nature. A moderate sized bead which generates a firm mouse on the palate, settling to a softer style which sits better with the quiet, slightly withdrawn character. A superior style, but lacks a little concentration to be truly fine. Very good. 16.5/20 (August 2006)

Non-Vintage

Dumangin Brut Grande Réserve NV: Current release. A softly scented nose, with a little rose petal and first, then brighter lemon aromas. Rather plump at the start, then softening further and broadening out in the midpalate, where the acidity suddenly pops out. A honey-lemon character which is pleasant. An approachable style. From the 2008 annual Champagne tasting. 14.5/20 (March 2008)

Dumangin Brut Grande Réserve NV: An attractive, fresh, mineral fruit style. A little herby. I like it. Similarly fresh on the palate, with a gently foaming mousse. Rather sea salty, with a really simple and open style, but it has clean lines, and has a pretty, nicely rounded presence on the palate. This is good. From the 2007 Champagne Information Bureau Tasting. 15.5/20 (March 2007)

Dumangin Brut Grande Réserve NV: This cuvée has a pale straw-gold colour and a rather fat bead. It has a rather soft, open nose of plump white fruits. The palate has the same sort of character, a very soft, relaxed, open style, with lots of apple fruits backed up by a sweet, biscuity presence which belies the presence of a significant amount of black grapes I think. The full, soft, creamy mousse only adds to this wine's warm and welcoming nature. It is good, but is certainly for current and short-term drinking. 16/20 (August 2006)

Dumangin Extra Brut NV: Most of Dumangin's non-vintage cuvées seem to be 50% PM, 25% PN and 25% C, so I suspect this to be no different. A very pale straw gold on inspection, with a moderate to fat bead at the core of the wine. The nose is leaning towards a biscuity character, but still has a lovely freshness. On the palate this is not quite bone dry but it is getting there, although through the midpalate it develops quite a creamy-foamy richness which counterbalances this nicely. Lean white fruits, not quite as advanced as on the nose, with a coarsely delineated structure beneath. Very dry finish. A great aperitif, which should improve in the cellar. 16+/20 (August 2006)

Dumangin Rosé NV: Another pale, satin pink wine. Slightly dirty nose, perhaps a little sulphur here, with some minerally, pebbly, confected red fruits. Soft entry, rather creamy mousse, but then showing some fairly firm acidity. Nice savoury finish. This would be decent enough for current drinking, but the nose spoils it. From the 2006 Champagne Information Bureau Tasting. 15/20 (March 2006)

Dumangin Demi-Sec Argentée NV: An appealing nose here, fairly mineral in quality, with some white floral notes. It has a presence on the palate, although it has a rather foamy, sherbetty character. Rather soft and unfocussed. Decent acidity though, but little else to commend it. From the 2006 Champagne Information Bureau Tasting. 14/20 (March 2006)