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Albert Bichot

Although this site has developed something of a reputation as a source of information on Bordeaux and the Loire, it is a much-forgotten fact that its birth was tied up with a desire to better understand Burgundy. My weekly Burgundy tastings, which have long since metamorphosed into my wine of the week feature, showed me that the region was capable of great things. I also discovered that many bottles of Burgundy could be both expensive and disappointing, and it was ultimately this that dissuaded me from exploring the region any further. For that reason it is more than a decade since I last visited the region...or rather, it was more than a decade.

In March 2009 I travelled to Burgundy in the company of a few others to take a look at what must surely be Burgundy's lowest-profile négociant, Albert Bichot. During three days, accompanied at various times by Albéric Bichot, who currently heads up the family firm, commercial director Philippe de Marcilly and employees, including Christophe Chauvel, Olivier Deboubt and Dominique Bon, my vision once more fell upon the great vineyards of Burgundy. To see the monastery of Clos de Vougeot once again, my gaze having last fell upon it in 1997, as well as the cross next to La Romanée, the hill of Corton and the church spire of Meursault in the distance was like being shaken from a long and complacent slumber. This profile of Albert Bichot is just a first taste of what I learnt during my all-too-short trip to the region, accompanied by my tasting notes.

Albert Bichot: a History

The origins of the domaine can be traced back not to Albert Bichot, oddly enough, but rather to an ancestor named Bernard. Born in 1750, Bernard Bichot was the latest generation of a noble Burgundian family active in parliament, and the great-grandson of Bénigne Bichot, Lord of Corbeton and an advisor to the king. The family had indeed been resident in the region since at least 1350, although it was not until the 19th Century that they came to wine, and this was down to Bernard. In 1831, the same year that his son, Hyppolyte was born, he established his domaine. Many years later Hyppolyte Bichot inherited a considerable estate from his father, one which included parcels of vines in many desirable vineyards.

The estate has been passed down from father to son ever since, although it would seem that there has been some division along the way. Some vineyards came to a philanthropic benefactor named François Blondeau, through his marriage to a Bichot heiress in the early 19th Century. Upon his death he bequeathed his property to the Hospices de Beaune, and the Volnay produced from this donation has carried the name Cuvée Blondeau ever since. Nevertheless the domaine proper came to Albert Bichot, Hyppolyte's son, who was instrumental in the first great expansion of the family business. Swallowing up several smaller négociant houses, he soon found it necessary to move to larger quarters, and he established himself in Beaune in 1912. Although certainly not the largest négociant in the region the business was becoming something of a behemoth, and the next generation saw four brothers, Bernard, Albert, Bénigne and Jean-Marc involved in its management.

Born in 1964, the next generation and current incumbent Albéric Bichot inherited a responsibility for a large family firm that operated on a rather dated business model, one which contrasted greatly with the rapid developments seen within the broader world of wine. The Bichot family recognised that in order to survive in this new era change would be necessary, and the direction the company has taken in response to this realisation has largely been down to Albéric. Despite having taken on this responsibility in 1996, at the age of just 32 years, Albéric quickly realised that only by controlling the quality of the raw materials would Bichot survive; this meant purchasing either land, or grapes when still on the vine, giving the team greater control over methods of cultivation, date of harvest and so on. Today the company owns around 100 hectares of vineyards, a figure which Albéric, a character who has a rare combination of great humour but also humility, remarkable considering his position, nonchalantly describes, with a twinkle in his eye, as "not bad". Of this 100 hectares 65 are in Chablis, part of Domaine Long-Depaquit, which was purchased in 1972. This acquisition highlights another aspect of the modern Bichot philosophy; to focus on the domaines rather than the name of the négociant, and within each property to focus on wines of quality, from the surrounding vineyards. Nevertheless this is a négociant business, and it is worth noting that in 2007, as an example, Albert Bichot vinified fruit from more than 150 hectares of vines in this appellation alone.

In the Côte d'Or Albert Bichot has two strong footholds at Domaine du Pavillon in Pommard (13 hectares) and the Domaine du Clos Frantin in Nuits-Saint-Georges (17 hectares), which together with Domaine Adélie in Mercurey (where there are 4.2 hectares) makes almost 35 hectares of vines. The Bichot-owned vineyards account for 20% of the entire production from the Côte de Nuits and Côte de Beaune, the remaining 80% is produced from purchased fruit, and is largely accounted for by generic appellations such as Bourgogne Blanc & Rouge. Even though there is a dependence on contract fruit at this level 78% of Côte d'Or wines bearing a Bichot label have been vinified in-house, including 100% at the grand cru and 85% at the premier cru levels. Yields are strictly controlled, and contracted growers are limited to 10% more than the Bichot yields, so if the Bichot vineyards come in at 40 hl/ha for a particular vintage then the maximum permissible for purchased fruit will be 44 hl/ha. When you consider that grand and premier cru sites are over-represented in the Bichot vineyards, and the generic appellations are over-represented in the contracted vineyards, this is a fairly stringent requirement. In addition, having given 40 hl/ha as an example, the domaine yield is usually lower than this, typically closer to 35 hl/ha, the main system of control being severe pruning and debudding rather than green harvesting. The process of cultivation and vinification obviously varies between domaines, appellations, colours and cuvées, and I will deal with each in a little more detail below, but broadly speaking there is a philosophy of organic practice wherever possible, with no fertilisers (other than a little infrequent compost every few years) and ploughing rather than herbicides. In the cellar fermentation comes from indigenous yeasts and the use of oak is reasoned, meaning although there is 100% barrel-fermentation for the grand crus, this drops to 15-30% for the premier crus and lesser wines.

The Bichot Domaines

The Domaine du Pavillon was acquired for the Bichot portfolio in 1993, and today it accounts for 17 hectares of the Bichot vineyards, situated entirely in the Côte de Beaune, principally in the villages of Meursault, Volnay, Pommard, Beaune and Aloxe Corton. Notable vineyards include Clos des Ursulines, a 4 hectare monopole close to the centre of the village of Pommard, as well as the Clos des Maréchaudes, another monopole. This latter vineyard is unusual in that it although it is a true clos, it is divided between grand and premier cru. Of the 2 hectares approximately one-third, the upper slopes, are Corton Grand Cru, whilst the remaining vines on the lower slopes are Aloxe Corton Premier Cru. In addition there are 1.5 hectares of vines in Les Charmes, a leading premier cru of Meursault, and even 0.3 hectares of vines in the same commune planted with Pinot Noir which are entitled to the Meursault Rouge appellation.

The Long-Depaquit estate is Bichot's foothold in Chablis; this historic domaine was in the ownership of the Abbey of Pontigny for more than six centuries, from 1128 until it was wrested from their hands during the Revolution. At that time it was purchased by Depaquit who had distanced himself from the church, and subsequently it came into the sole ownership of Albert Bichot. There are 65 hectares of vines, which includes 10% of the entire grand cru vineyard (second only to the 15% owned by Fèvre), with plots in six of the named sites including La Moutonne, an INAO-approved description for a 2.35 hectare plot of vines which straddles Les Preuses and Vaudésir (the latter accounts for most of it). La Moutonne, originally planted by the Cistercian monks of Pontigny, came to Bichot with the Long-Depaquit domaine.

Standing in La Moutonne one is immediately struck by the anti-frost measures in place here. There are several options utilised across the Chablis vineyards, including oil-burning stoves and water-sprinklers, but Bichot have opted, in a joint venture undertaken with William Fèvre, for electrical heating. As a consequence the rows of vines owned by these two are easy to pick out, each being marked by thick black cables that run between the posts along with the training wires, and also by the control boxes at the bottom of the slopes (shown right). La Moutonne is also a little special for being at the centre of the amphitheatre of the grand cru vines, so it receives the sun for longer than some other sites, and it is also set back from the central valley a little more than its neighbours, protecting it from the cooler air to be found there. The vines are naturally all Chardonnay, and in recent decades there has been a move away from the Champagne clones towards those associated more with quality rather than quantity. There is a continued program of replanting vine-by-vine, and the fruit from young vines is discarded for the first seven or eight years before it is then included in the harvest and taken to the domaine for vinification.

After harvest, by hand for the premier and grand cru vineyards and by machine for the generic wines, the fruit is transported to the winery just a few minutes drive away near the centre of town, where it is destemmed and then pressed using pneumatic equipment; there is a plan, however, to introduce whole-bunch pressing for the grand cru wines as it is felt that this might allow for a more gentle procedure, based on the theory that the stems provide a network of channels through the solids for the juice to escape. After settling for 3-4 days the juice is then pumped up to the fermentation vessels; most of the wines harvested will see stainless steel fermentation, although a percentage of the premier and grand cru wines will be fermented in oak, and an even smaller percentage of this oak will be new. With a variety of sizes of vats, including some very small, all thermo-regulated, this is a cool, plot-by-plot fermentation. The first fermentation lasts 15-30 days, after which comes the malolactic fermentation, sometimes the following spring; the temperature of the vat can be allowed to rise a little if this is turning out to be problematic. Once complete, the wine is blended in the Long-Depaquit cellars, before transport to the Bichot facility in Beaune where it is bottled.

The Domaine du Clos Frantin was added to the Bichot portfolio in 1969, and today the estate amounts to 13 hectares. The original buildings are in the Clos Frantin (a monopole in the ownership of the domaine), the heart of the domaine in Vosne-Romanée, although in order to facilitate expansion and modernisation the cellars are now located in Nuits-Saint-Georges. The vineyards are situated throughout the Côte de Nuits, principally in the villages of Flagey-Echezeaux, Gevrey-Chambertin, Vosne-Romanée and Vougeot, including plots in the grands crus Echezeaux, Grands-Echezeaux and the Clos de Vougeot. I took a look at these vineyards along with Christophe Chauvel, viticultural manager, who came to Bichot from Domaine Leflaive where he worked alongside Pierre Morey. Standing on the narrow lane above the Echezeaux and Clos Vougeot vineyards we looked at the former; Bichot own vines here both at the bottom of the vineyard, where the soils are mostly clay and the wines quite powerful, and also in the top section where there is more sand and the wines are a touch lighter. A little more distant, closer to the RN74, were both Grands-Echezeaux and the Clos de Vougeot, where the Bichot vines sit on a shallow layer of chalk and clay soils. There are numerous other plots, but perhaps that in Les Malconsorts, a leading premier cru in Vosne-Romanée, is most worthy of mention.

The estate was founded by General Antoine Vincent Legrand, a Field-Marshal in the service of Napoleon I, explaining the presence of his name on the 1978 Corton I drank in March 2009. The clos itself is a lieu-dit on the periphery of Vosne-Romanée, very close to the famed La Tâche vineyard (it is remarkable just how many vineyards profess their proximity to one famous name or another in this fashion). In later years it was owned by Grivelet, who bottled the Clos Frantin wines as a monopole, before coming into the Bichot portfolio in 1969. The produce of the original clos is now blended with other Vosne village wines, so there is no longer a Clos Frantin cuvée per se, but there is still a very full portfolio of red wines, including those from owned vineyards that came with the purchase of Clos Frantin, négoce wines, red wines from the Pavillon vineyards, Bichot's Côte de Beaune foothold and also from Domaine Adélie, in the Côte Chalonnaise.

The wines described below were all tasted in Burgundy in March 2009, with a strong focus on 2007, although I also encountered a good number of older vintages. They were tasted on a trip to the region during which I received some hospitality from Albert Bichot. All that I have to confess, however, is that I found many of the wines delicious, the whites vibrant and lively but with some substance, the reds - once you get past the generic Bourgogne and Côte Chalonnaise wines - similarly appealing. They were very different to those expensive failures that formed much of my early experiences with Burgundy, and the region clearly has a lot to offer, much of which for me is as yet undiscovered I am sure. But as for these wines, they did more than cause me to merely divert my gaze from Bordeaux and the Loire for a while, even though they certainly made a welcome distraction; these delicious wines have truly rekindled my interest in Burgundy. Nevertheless, do bear the aforementioned hospitality in mind; if you feel it may have coloured my judgement of these wines, you should remember that when you read my notes. (26/5/09)

Contact details:
Address: 6 Bis Bd Jacques Copeau, 21200 Beaune
Telephone: +33 (0) 3 80 24 37 37
Fax: +33 (0) 8 3 80 24 37 38
Internet: www.bichot.com

Albert Bichot - Tasting Notes

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Albert Bichot Domaine Long-Depaquit Chablis 2008: This has lovely freshness, even a little plumpness to the nose, with acacia perfume. A very attractive beginning. A fresh palate, white stone, white fruit too, with good fat and floral overtones, although with appropriate substance and texture. Underneath it all, a lovely tingling acidity. For the appellation, very good. From a tasting of Albert Bichot Chablis. 15.5/20 (March 2009)

Albert Bichot Domaine Long-Depaquit Chablis Premier Cru Les Vaillons 2007: Just 10% of the final blend sees some oak here. Pure honeyed stone here, a little oak influence, but with floral and herbal elements too. Perhaps a little orange blossom too? Lean and reserved on the palate, but still very well composed, quite substantial in terms of structure, rounded and polished. Stony fruit. A good texture and substance but structure is the most prominent component. From a tasting of Albert Bichot Chablis. 16.5/20 (March 2009)

Albert Bichot Domaine Long-Depaquit Chablis Premier Cru Les Beugnons 2007: No oak at all in this cuvée. A stony character to the nose, with honey-herbal elements, and a slightly greener fruit character than the preceding wine. A softer texture on entry, a touch more fat but still a very rounded, polished, structured wine. In the midpalate it is more creamy and textured, but there are great acids here too. Reserved, but with a slightly brighter character. Very good. From a tasting of Albert Bichot Chablis. 16+/20 (March 2009)

Albert Bichot Domaine Long-Depaquit Chablis Premier Cru Les Lys 2007: No oak at all in this cuvée. A floral, white-flower nose. On the palate this is another wine with a stony character, although it is broader in texture, richer, with a substantial palate. This substance is draped over vibrant acidity and stony precision. This has a very good and bright style, with a mineral, linear character. From a tasting of Albert Bichot Chablis. 16.5+/20 (March 2009)

Albert Bichot Domaine Long-Depaquit Chablis Premier Cru Les Vaucopins 2007: There is 20% oak in this cuvée. A more honeyed nose here, no doubt reflecting this. Still the same polished style though, and a fairly weighty, attractive palate. Less vibrant acidity, a broad and quite honeyed character, and a mouth-filling substance. Nicely balanced, minerally, and although a touch softer than Les Lys there are extra dimensions here I think. From a tasting of Albert Bichot Chablis. 16.5-17+/20 (March 2009)

Albert Bichot Domaine Long-Depaquit Chablis Grand Cru Les Blanchots 2007: The nose here is bright, fresh, perfumed, with a touch of acacia and almond-honey from the oak I suspect. In fact this latter element is fairly noticeable here. Nevertheless the wine has good substance, and there is a bitter tinge to the midpalate which again I think indicates the oak outweighs the fruit, and it gives and rather firm, grippy style. Good, but this is a touch off-key I think. From a tasting of Albert Bichot Chablis. 16-16.5+/20 (March 2009)

Albert Bichot Domaine Long-Depaquit Chablis Grand Cru Les Vaudésirs 2007: More showy fruit on the nose here than Les Blanchots, with a dense and concentrated character, very reminiscent of dried fruits. With a little air, a tinge of honey-oak becomes more apparent. A big style of wine, broad with a lot of depth and texture, and a warmer, riper, peach skin and apricot fruit character. Gentle acidity, good substance, lovely density. This is fine stuff. From a tasting of Albert Bichot Chablis. 17.5-18+/20 (March 2009)

Albert Bichot Domaine Long-Depaquit Chablis Grand Cru La Moutonne 2007: An expressive nose, pure and concentrated fruit, peach and stone fruit character. Broad, minerally, textured but with a very fine, stony, linear precision. This has beautiful substance, good acidity, and a great, textured balance. A fine composition with an appealing length. Very fine. From a tasting of Albert Bichot Chablis. 18-18.5+/20 (March 2009)

Albert Bichot Bourgogne Chardonnay Vieilles Vignes 2007: This cuvée was added to the Bichot range with the 2002 vintage after seven years of research. It uses fruit from the Côte d'Or peripheries harvested at 45 hl/ha and 25% is aged in barrel. The production is 25000 cases per annum. This vintage is already in bottle, and has a lovely fresh nose, bright but vinous and nutty. It has a good, broad presence on the palate, appealing with good grip, lots of fine texture, and not a hint of leanness. A nice, peppery grip and good firm finish. For the appellation, this is remarkably good quality. From a tasting of Albert Bichot 2007 whites. 16/20 (March 2009)

Albert Bichot Rully 2007: This is sourced from a single vineyard, the location of which is undisclosed; 20% is fermented in barrels, none of which are new. The nose here is really interesting, with notes of toffee ripple ice cream and caramelised apples. It sounds weird but it is really appealing. The palate is quite softly styled, although there is a nice bite to it later. A gentle acidity contributes to its rather warm, pillowy style. More grip in the end though. From a tasting of Albert Bichot 2007 whites. 15.5/20 (March 2009)

Albert Bichot St Romain 2007: Harvested at 40-45 hl/ha. The nose here kicks off with almonds, and then broader nutty aromas. The palate is tighter, with a slightly purer definition, although it shows a somewhat fuller style in the midpalate. There is brighter acidity here than in the Bourgogne or Rully. Firmer, more structured, a touch gritty, with good cellar potential. This is a step up I think. From a tasting of Albert Bichot 2007 whites. 16-16.5+/20 (March 2009)

Albert Bichot Chassagne-Montrachet 2007: This is rather broader on the nose than I expected, with an open, cashew nut character, with nuances of acacia, fruit and citrus cream. Initially reserved on the palate, it later broadens out, opening and loosening up somewhat, showing a better grip and a fuller, more structured style than was suggested at the beginning. There is good acidity here, a minerally tinge, and good potential too. From a tasting of Albert Bichot 2007 whites. 16-16.5+/20 (March 2009)

Albert Bichot Puligny-Montrachet 2007: Intense and aromatic on the nose, with golden fruits and a fresh, honey-like tinge of oak. Rich, open, gentle, very relaxed and almost creamy in style, although later there is a more evident peppery grip. The finish is warmly honeyed, backed up by a little grip. Not quite the style I was expecting, but certainly a good wine, although I think I prefer the Chassagne. From a tasting of Albert Bichot 2007 whites. 15.5-16+/20 (March 2009)

Albert Bichot Domaine du Pavillon Meursault 2007: From 30-year-old vines. Not yet bottled. Less expressive on the nose than some of the preceding wines. Rather more linear than I expected, and also a somewhat better composition than the Chassagne and Puligny. It is actually quite rich and substantial on the palate, showing good but gentle acidity, a ripe and full texture, and a fatter feel. This was popular among fellow tasters, but although similarly scored I just preferred the Chassagne. From a tasting of Albert Bichot 2007 whites. 16-16.5+/20 (March 2009)

Albert Bichot Domaine du Pavillon Beaune Premier Cru Clos des Mouches 2007: The fruit for this cuvée comes from a plot less than 1 hectare in size, replanted from Pinot Noir to Chardonnay in 1997-8. So these are young vines. There is a slightly steely edge to the nose here, with a little twist of vanilla on the side, and a talcy-chalky edge. Notes of stone and then beeswax appear. This has an elegant start on the palate, really attractive, with good grip beneath a gently creamy, sappy, textured mouthfeel in the middle. This is a wine with a fine presence and yet is also very approachable. From a tasting of Albert Bichot 2007 whites. 17-17.5+/20 (March 2009)

Albert Bichot Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru La Maltroie 2007: This wine has fabulous expression, with gritty oaked fruit on the nose, augmented by smoke, bread, honey, cereal and nut elements. The nose has a very warm and open style, and the palate is no different. It has a very ripe and rich style, with lots of good grip and acidity; this is a very substantial wine. Big, grippy and flavoursome on the finish. It seems different, stylistically, to some of the other wines in the line-up, and a touch bitter in the finish. Nevertheless, great potential here. From a tasting of Albert Bichot 2007 whites. 16.5-17+/20 (March 2009)

Albert Bichot Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru Les Garennes 2007: A very pure character here, defined, honey-tinged, gentle and yet broad. It has a touch less concentration on the palate than I expected from the nose, but it has good definition and balanced acidity. Honey nut character, golden oak, and a great grippy finish. This is very stylish. From a tasting of Albert Bichot 2007 whites. 17-17.5+/20 (March 2009)

Albert Bichot Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru Les Perrières 2007: Pure and minerally honey here, with some oatmeal, this wine has a very linear style. Classically composed, defined, with lots of grippy structure, precise, pure and firm. This is a vigorous wine which somehow still manages to brim with elegance, and overall this is delightfully put together. From a tasting of Albert Bichot 2007 whites. 17.5-18+/20 (March 2009)

Albert Bichot Domaine du Pavillon Meursault Premier Cru Les Charmes 2007: From 40-year-old vines. This has a rather lively nose, expressive, with notes of honeycomb and acacia first, then elements of sun-dried fruits and nuts. It is all very suggestive of warm, summer sunshine. The palate is fine, with a more supple finesse than in some preceding wines. There is good acidity, a finer balance than I was expecting perhaps indicative of the quality of the terroir. Intense, substantial and yet with plenty of freshness and a great finish. This is fine stuff. From a tasting of Albert Bichot 2007 whites. 17.5-18+/20 (March 2009)

Albert Bichot Domaine du Pavillon Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru 2007: The fruit comes from the Ladoix side of the Corton vineyard which is south-facing, and Bichot is usually the first to harvest here in order to maintain freshness in the finished wine. The nose seems minerally, pure, aromatic, citrusy and it is certainly fresh. No surprise then that the palate follows in the same vein, pure and elegant, defined on entry, with bright midpalate grip. This has a much more mouth-filling capability than the preceding wines, and a fine composition. It is rather tighter and less expressive, but linear and clearly crystalline. Fine potential here. From a tasting of Albert Bichot 2007 whites. 18-18.5+/20 (March 2009)

Albert Bichot Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru 2007: This wine has a little more intensity than the Corton-Charlemagne on the nose, and yet it is still very well defined and pure. On the palate it has a bigger impact, with a full midpalate, rich and weighty from the outset. through to the finish it has a huge presence, complete and yet balanced, structured and substantial, with delightful elements of peach-skin fruit. These two wines will no doubt appeal to different palates in different ways, but on this tasting I prefer this one, just a little. Great wine. From a tasting of Albert Bichot 2007 whites. 18-19+/20 (March 2009)

Albert Bichot Bourgogne Pinot Noir Vieilles Vignes 2007: There is some cherry fruit on the nose here, with a very slight furry edge. The palate is cleaner though, lean, firm and structured. The fruit is lean, there is grip, and a pretty, punchy character. But the quality, density and interest just isn't here for me. From a tasting of Albert Bichot 2007 reds. 14-14.5+/20 (March 2009)

Albert Bichot Domaine Adélie Mercurey 2007: This sees fermentation in stainless steel, then maturation half in steel and half in oak, 15-20% new. There is more depth on the nose here, but also a slightly candied, caramelised marshmallow sweetness to it which I assume comes from the oak toasting. Nice depth on the palate, with fresh acidity and a pretty substance, well composed and backed up by a nice texture. For the appellation it is good; but it needs time for that false oak sweetness to integrate. From a tasting of Albert Bichot 2007 reds. 15-16?/20 (March 2009)

Albert Bichot Domaine Adélie Mercurey Champs Martin 2007: This sees fermentation in wood, then maturation entirely in oak, 30% new. This is more withdrawn on the nose, again there is a firm toastiness to it, but there is nicely spiced fruit underneath. Substantial, firm, a little richer and creamy through the midpalate, with a chewy and attractive finish. From a tasting of Albert Bichot 2007 reds. 15-16+/20 (March 2009)

Albert Bichot Beaune Clos de l'Ermitage 2007: This is a lieu-dit of the Beaune vineyards overlooking the premier cru Clos des Mouches, and the wines has seen 15 months in barrel. More charred-toffee, caramelised sugar notes on the nose here, so the oak dominates at the moment, but the palate is attractive, with an elegant, composed, complete and slight stony style. The tannins are fine, textured and cottony, and the fruit has purity. This is a good step up from the preceding wines. From a tasting of Albert Bichot 2007 reds. 15.5-16.5+/20 (March 2009)

Albert Bichot Domaine du Pavillon Pommard Clos de Ursulines 2007: Another lieu-dit, this one lies next to premier cru Clos Micault. The wines has a deeper hue, with sweet strawberry and cherry fruit on the nose. It has a lovely pure entry on the palate, which is rounded and polished, with a gentle cottony texture but also a good substance. Attractive, perfumed, but underscored by firm tannins, this wine seems very true to the appellation. From a tasting of Albert Bichot 2007 reds. 16-17+/20 (March 2009)

Albert Bichot Gevrey-Chambertin Les Evocelles 2007: This lieu-dit is situated near the top of the slope, to the northwest. It has a very different character to the preceding wines, very expressive, with fresh and stony fruit. There is perfume too. It has a lovely sweetness on entry, with a gentle and aromatic style, and a gentle, stony, minerally substance, underpinned by good fruit and structure. Very bright and attractive. From a tasting of Albert Bichot 2007 reds. 16.5-17.5+/20 (March 2009)

Albert Bichot Gevrey-Chambertin Les Corvées 2007: A darker hue, and a more animalistic, more meaty style on the nose. The palate is rounded, dense, polished but firm, withdrawn and certainly of substance. There is even a little chewy edge to the structure here. This is very nicely done but it is a much bigger, forceful character than the Evocelles. A wine to be reckoned with. From a tasting of Albert Bichot 2007 reds. 16-17+/20 (March 2009)

Albert Bichot Savigny-les-Beaune Premier Cru Les Peuillets 2007: This wine is vinified at Domaine du Pavillon, and in this vintage it has been aged entirely in wood, although for a shorter time than usual. The nose is interesting, gamey, again with the coffee notes and sweetness of some toasted oak. The palate is full, rich, a touch creamy, with firm midpalate grip, the tannins perhaps augmented by the wood? It has some perfumed chalky, red-raspberry fruit, with a little sweetness and more grip in the finish. From a tasting of Albert Bichot 2007 reds. 15-16+/20 (March 2009)

Albert Bichot Pommard Premier Cru Clos Micault 2007: This vineyard lies at the bottom of the slope in Pommard. It is less expressive than the Ursulines, and has a more tense, grippy, structured character on the palate. It is powerful, quite tannic, but with a good texture and some polished, rather stony fruit. This is one for the cellar I think. From a tasting of Albert Bichot 2007 reds. 16-17+/20 (March 2009)

Albert Bichot Domaine du Pavillon Pommard Premier Cru Les Rugiens 2007: In contrast to Clos Micault this vineyard lies at the top of the Pommard slope. There is black cherry and smoke on the nose, with a faint trace of sweet oak. This has a very different style, more polished, firm and structured, but this is nicely covered through the midpalate. Broad, cottony, finely styled, this should be very good indeed. From a tasting of Albert Bichot 2007 reds. 16.5-17.5+/20 (March 2009)

Albert Bichot Domaine du Pavillon Aloxe-Corton Premier Cru Clos des Marechaudes 2007: This 2 hectare monopole is divided between premier cru (two-thirds) and grand cru. This wine sees 40% new oak. A little sweetness on the nose here, with a toasty, caramelised oak character, but also rich fruit. The start on the palate is lovely, polished, with lots of grip and tannin. It is fine, structured, firm and elegant. There is lovely fruit to balance it out. Lots of potential here in this very fresh wine. From a tasting of Albert Bichot 2007 reds. 17-18+/20 (March 2009)

Albert Bichot Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru Les Cazetiers 2007: This vineyard is high up on the Gevrey slope; the wine has a beautiful mealange of perfumed violets and stony, black summer fruits on the nose. The palate starts off in a delightful fashion, polished and fine, suppleness underpinned by firm tannin. The overall impression here is one of composed beauty; excellent wine. From a tasting of Albert Bichot 2007 reds. 17-18+/20 (March 2009)

Albert Bichot Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru Lavaux-St-Jacques 2007: Another vineyard high up on the slope. Again, very perfumed, and seemingly much purer and defined than the Cazetiers. Full, structured, less perfumed and feminine, more substantial in character. There is plenty of structure on the palate, the fruit lagging behind a little. But this is certainly lovely wine, full on the finish, but it needs to be left in the cellar for some time I think. From a tasting of Albert Bichot 2007 reds. 17-18+/20 (March 2009)

Albert Bichot Domaine du Pavillon Corton Clos des Marechaudes Grand Cru 2007: This wine comes from the one-third of the clos classified as grand cru. It sees 80% new oak. There is a big difference in colour between these two wines, this one being darker, denser, with a more matt appearance. Fine substance on the palate, with real texture and attack at the beginning, then a broader midpalate, although it always remains very polished, harmonious and substantial. There is a lot of structure but it stays very well hidden, and the new oak has been very well absorbed. Dense and yet with finesse, this is excellent. From a tasting of Albert Bichot 2007 reds. 17.5-18.5+/20 (March 2009)

Albert Bichot Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru 2007: This has an interesting nose, of muted fruit, burnt cherry with a vegetal twist. Substantial on the palate, rounded, with the suggestion of polished stone. There is a lot of firm midpalate grip which rather dominate the fruit, but it has a good, mouth-filling weight which rather compensates. This is attractive, certainly more so on the palate than the nose, and it has potential. From a tasting of Albert Bichot 2007 reds. 16.5-17.5+/20 (March 2009)

Albert Bichot Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru 2007: This is fabulous, complex, deep and smoky; there is tobacco leaf and sweetness over a layer of fine fruit. On the palate it is polished, very stylish, full, rounded, perfectly balanced, with great purity and harmony. This has great style, and it bodes very well for how it will perform in the cellar. Wonderful wine. From a tasting of Albert Bichot 2007 reds. 18-19+/20 (March 2009)

Albert Bichot Domaine du Clos Frantin Echezeaux Grand Cru 2007: Recently bottled, this is much more withdrawn on the nose than some of the preceding wines. There is some stony fruit, only opening out with a little time in the glass to reveal a more perfumed character. Full, broad, polished and substantial wine, with midpalate grip and structure; full, creamy, but fanning out on the palate to show ripe texture and substance. This is potentially very fine indeed. From a tasting of Albert Bichot 2007 reds. 17.5-18.5+/20 (March 2009)

Albert Bichot Domaine du Clos Frantin Grands-Echezeaux Grand Cru 2007: Again a recently bottled cuvée, this wine seems more mineral on the nose, and it is perhaps a little more expressive, with a coffee twist. Full, substantial, creamy, quite divine on the palate. There are notes of coffee, fresh barrels and clean fruit, and overall I suspect this is just a touch superior to the Echezeaux although it is perhaps difficult to call. Both will certainly make excellent for the future. From a tasting of Albert Bichot 2007 reds. 18-19+/20 (March 2009)

Albert Bichot Domaine Long-Depaquit Chablis Grand Cru Les Vaudésirs 2006: Honeyed oak on the nose here, nevertheless it still seems quite vibrant, with delicious golden fruits, peach skin and even a hint of exotic fruits, perhaps lychee? The texture is beautiful in a very flattering style, very creamy and rounded, soft and fleshy, with less acidity perhaps in keeping with the vintage. Good grip beneath these rich fruits. Although a fatter style, still well balanced. From a tasting of Albert Bichot Chablis. 17-17.5+/20 (March 2009)

Albert Bichot Domaine Long-Depaquit Chablis Grand Cru Les Blanchots 2006: The first sample was deemed corked and replaced. The second showed a wealth of fresh, stony, linear fruit. The palate has a similarly stony quality, nicely textured too. Attractive, gentle acidity. It is rather leaner in style than I might expect for grand cru level, and this may reflect the position of Les Blanchots, which is a cooler site with a southwest aspect at the end of the run of grand cru vineyards behind the town. From a tasting of Albert Bichot Chablis. 16+/20 (March 2009)

Albert Bichot Domaine Long-Depaquit Chablis Grand Cru La Moutonne 2006: Plenty of plump fruit on the nose here, linear and slightly citrusy. Broad, clean, rich, sappy and substantial texture on the palate, rich and yet bright. Great grip underneath. This seems to fit with 2006 having been a warmer vintage for the region. This is big, creamy, textured, with soft and ripe stone fruit. Very impressive. From a tasting of Albert Bichot Chablis. 17.5+/20 (March 2009)

Albert Bichot Domaine Long-Depaquit Chablis Grand Cru La Moutonne 2005: Massive character on the nose here, with a huge panoply of honeyed, oaky fruit. Rich and golden, orchard fruit sweetness, slightly dried in character. An impressive minerally seam on the palate, soft grip at the core, but with good acidity too. This is a big, exotic wine of certain grand cru quality. It is just so complete, so harmonious, with richness, elegance and grip. That oak needs to integrate though. From a tasting of Albert Bichot Chablis. 18.5+/20 (March 2009)

Albert Bichot Domaine du Pavillon Beaune Premier Cru Clos des Mouches 2004: An expressive nose, a touch honeyed, with some sweet and slightly candied fruit. Firm, structured, quite grippy, with a broad, rich and rounded style. A fine and full but quite grippy finish. This still has plenty to offer I think. 16.5+/20 (March 2009)

Albert Bichot Domaine Long-Depaquit Chablis Grand Cru La Moutonne 2003: Massively characterful on the nose, full of exotic, dried, straw-tinged fruit, overlaid with elements of honey and vanilla. The palate is rich and textured, but I am somewhat surprised to find it less huge and exotic than the 2005. Broad, textured, substantial, stony but very creamy too. This lacks the brightness of fruit that I find in some of the other wines, but it certainly doesn't lack grip, substance or structure. From a tasting of Albert Bichot Chablis. 17.5+/20 (March 2009)

Albert Bichot Domaine du Pavillon Beaune Premier Cru Clos des Mouches 2002: A richer colour than some of the 2007s we were tasting earlier in the day. The nose is divine, full of crystalline fruit character, with a gritty, honey richness mixed with the complexity of beeswax, minerals, coffee and lanolin. The palate has freshness and substance, with a rich and polished, rounded character. Great grip too; orange peel, mint and more, and a firm finish. Very fine indeed. 17.5/20 (March 2009)

Albert Bichot Domaine du Pavillon Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru 2002: A very expressive nose, fresh and stylish, with pure stone fruit. Very defined and linear, with lots of vigour. Stylish, pure and grippy, very structured but fresh and substantial, with a firm and very tightly bound-up finish. Great potential here I think. 18.5+/20 (March 2009)

Albert Bichot Domaine du Pavillon Meursault 2001: This has a lovely nose, vibrant and pure, like the Clos des Mouches above rather crystalline. A little honeyed richness, but rather brighter and fresher than I expected it to be. Not a bad thing though! Fine and fresh, but with good substance on the palate, this is both full and yet also quite taut. It has a certain grip towards the finish, with a ripe and yet sappy character. Great wine for the village appellation. 17/20 (March 2009)

Albert Bichot Domaine du Pavillon Beaune Premier Cru Les Epenottes 2001: This is ripe and yet a little dusty on the nose, still showing nice red and black fruits, fresh and lively and still relatively under-developed. It is full, with good grip and substance on the palate, with a slightly fat feel to it. Structured, with good extract, with lots of tight grip towards the finish, but also a beautiful perfume, very floral, with the delicacy of flower petals laid over all these firm foundations. Lovely balance. Lots of appeal and cellaring potential here. 17+/20 (March 2009)

Albert Bichot Domaine Long-Depaquit Chablis Grand Cru La Moutonne 2001: At close to eight years of age this wine is beginning to show some mature, honey-mineral and honeycomb elements on the nose. The palate is rich, golden and sweet, big and soft, and rather broad in character. There is star anise spice and the flavour of freshly cut hay. This is maturing very nicely indeed, but it retains its grip, underneath a big and soft style. It is perhaps a touch diffuse at the finish, for which I have to mark it down a little I think, but a good wine nevertheless. From a tasting of Albert Bichot Chablis. 16.5/20 (March 2009)

Albert Bichot Domaine du Clos Frantin Echezeaux Grand Cru 1998: An evolved character on the nose here at just over ten years of age, with elements of cigar and tobacco behind the smoky red fruits; warm, ripe but also fresh and a little stony. On the palate it is pure and rich, substantial but fresh. There is a very big structure to it, lots of grip, lots of tannic substance, especially so in the finish. Over the top, a little stony fruit. Although the nose seems to be maturing the palate seems very young. Fine potential here. 18+/20 (March 2009)

Albert Bichot Domaine du Pavillon Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru 1996: A rich and stylish character on the nose, which although not very expressive at first opens out  in time to display a fine fruit character with a very slightly toffee-tinged edge. Despite its age it has a very fresh and composed character on the palate, broad but with a very linear grip underneath. Fine, very substantial, structured, but with honeyed and peachy fruit. A lovely impression overall; serious and tight, but delicious, and still very young. 18+/20 (March 2009)

Albert Bichot Domaine du Pavillon Meursault Premier Cru Les Charmes 1989: Wow - the nose here has minerals and stones galore; this is deliciously evolved, complex, yet also reserved and rather precise. The palate is clean and stony, evolved like the nose, slightly bright and pure with a very defined minerality. There is weight and fruit behind it all, but this wine is an exceptional example of pure, minerally, mature Chardonnay from one of Meursault's greatest vineyards. 18.5/20 (March 2009)

Albert Bichot Domaine du Clos Frantin Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru Les Malconsorts 1989: Served blind. This wine - which has clearly lain in a dark and mouldy cellar for close to two decades - had a perfect cork in a very healthy condition. In the glass, the colour was rich, fine and mature, bricking at the rim but still very vibrant in terms of hue. The nose was similarly evolved, with a fine perfume, akin to violets, with purity and remarkable freshness, alongside the characteristics of maturity including rust, iron filings and a meaty richness. On the palate it has a brilliant freshness, substantial and yet elegant, ripe and yet well polished. The fruit and structure are nicely integrated, and the finish seamless and very long. An excellent wine, remarkable for its lively personality at an admirable age. For label images and more see my Wine of the Week write-up. 18.5/20 (March 2009)

Albert Bichot Domaine du Clos Frantin Corton Grand Cru 1978: Served blind. The label on this aged bottle declares the wine to be from the "Ancien domain du Général Legrand, Maréchal du Camp de Napoleon 1er". The fruit was sourced from the Langettes parcel in Corton, which was uprooted in 2006 and replanted with white vines for Corton-Charlemagne; judging by this bottle, that's a shame! The colour on this wine clearly indicates some age, with a paling orange-pink rim. Somewhat gamey on the nose, perfumed, quite floral, violetty with a fresh blackberry character remarkable in a wine of this age. The palate has remarkable substance, balanced but textured, generous even, with a broad and yet elegant finish showing sweet fruit. Finely composed, this wine has great length too. Delicious stuff. 18.5/20 (March 2009)

Albert Bichot Domaine du Clos Frantin Chambertin Grand Cru 1969: Served blind. Pure and fresh, with a little calcareous note, like crushed seashells; this is aromatic, minerally but sweet and perfumed. Fresh, pure, aromatic and despite its age still very direct and defined. The palate shows impressive weight and composition, fine and delicious, delicate and yet full, and vibrant too, and still showing a core of texture and extract even at 40 years of age! Brilliant finesse here; a truly fine example of how Burgundy can age. 19/20 (March 2009)

Albert Bichot Domaine du Clos Frantin Chambertin Grand Cru 1959: Served blind. Oh my! This has a fabulously perfumed fruit character on the nose, a melange of meaty substance and violets, elegance and complexity rolled into one. The palate is no less impressive; there is a fine yet broad substance, a firm grip and notes of liquorice amongst the fruit. Pure and evolved, gently polished, but rich and stylish too. What amazes me is how wines of such maturity can still show such substance behind the finesse and complexity. A superb wine. 19.5/20 (March 2009)

Albert Bichot Domaine du Clos Frantin Chambertin Grand Cru 1947: Served blind. Unsurprisingly also looking very mature, with dense and slightly gamey character on the nose, with powerful hints of balsamic and spice. Intense, its forceful character and freshness making it seem unbelievably young. Full and impressive, almost sweet in character, well structured, but also plenty of life. Like the nose, the palate seems fresh and pure, and there is still unresolved grip here. The third in a remarkable trio of wines. Incredible stuff. 19.5/20 (March 2009)