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Chateau Sociando-Mallet
Sociando-Mallet is one of those chateaux which makes a mockery of the
1855 classification of Bordeaux. Never entered into the classification of
Cru Classé chateaux, and subsequently classified as a Cru Bourgeois in 1932, it
consistently turns out wines which outshine those produced by many of its more
illustrious neighbours. This apparent error was further highlighted in 2003 when
a revised
Cru Bourgeois classification was drawn up, led by the nine Cru Bourgeois
Exceptionnel. Sociando-Mallet was nowhere to be seen - the confident Jean
Gautreau (right) opted to remain outside of the system, perhaps feeling that
participating in the Cru Bourgeois system would actually lower the standing of
his chateau, but perhaps also discouraged by some of the petty politics that
seemed to surround the process.
The history of Sociando-Mallet extends back at least as far as the early 17th Century, as records reveal that the estate was the residence of a Basque nobleman named Sociando in 1633. Otherwise the ancient history of the estate is sketchy, although the owner at the time of Revolution is known to have been a prominent lawyer named Guillaume de Brochon, who was prosecuted and stripped of his property which was broken up for sale. The new proprietor was a gentleman named Lamothe, although it subsequently passed to a naval captain by the name of Mallet, and thus the property was given the name Sociando-Mallet. From then on the estate was passed from pillar to post, through the hands of a sequence of owners, the cumulative effect being a gradual deterioration in its condition. Captain Mallet's widow sold the estate to a M. Alaret, then it went to Léon Simon, the négociant firm Delor, a local mayor known by the name of Louis Roullet and lastly François Téreygéol, an INAO official. It was this latter proprietor that sold the estate to Jean Gautreau in 1969.
When Gautreau acquired Sociando-Mallet it was a somewhat dilapidated property.
It was perhaps a purchase based on a dream, rather than a more practical
business plan. The vineyard had been reduced to just a few hectares of vines,
and several buildings were derelict. Not only that, but Gautreau has told me
that the locals thought the appended name of Mallet to be at least amusing, if not more. But
such thoughts did not deter Gautreau, who obviously had a vision of the potential of the vineyard.
Those vineyards that had fallen out of use were ploughed, revealing promising
gravelly soils, typical of the vineyards that run along the banks of the
Gironde. Gautreau would say it is this terroir, the same band of gravel
that runs beneath the vines of Latour and numerous other leading properties of
the Médoc, that gives the wines of Sociando-Mallet their fine character. With
the purchase of more land, the vineyard was expanded, and today it exceeds 50
hectares in area. He then turned his attention to the buildings, which were
gradually restored to the fine state that they are in today. Some of the old cuvier now makes for a very comfortable accommodation, and elsewhere there are
new buildings. When I visited in late 2006 there was an impressive building program
still ongoing, including the construction of a fabulous elevated tasting
room, with a splendid panoramic view across the vines and the Gironde.
There is no shortage of new stainless steel equipment, steel lined oak vats as
well, new oak barrels almost as far as the eye can see, and no reluctance to
embrace other, perhaps more controversial, technologies. The underground cellars are
extensive, and include the Sociando-Mallet library, which is a sight to behold;
the family have held back a breathtaking 10000 bottles in some recent vintages.
The vineyard and chateau sits right on the Gironde, in the commune of St.-Seurin de Cadourne,
just to the north of St Estephe. The vineyard is on a gravel croupe that
slopes away from the buildings at the top of the estate. The varieties planted
are 55% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Merlot, the remaining 5% part Cabernet Franc
and part Petit Verdot. The vines are planted very densely, and there is no green
harvest, thus yields are high even for Bordeaux, with perhaps 80 hl/ha. The harvest is manual, and once in the cuvier the
fruit is fermented in both concrete and stainless-steel vats, with temperatures
up to 33°C to encourage the extraction of tannins. The wine is then macerated
for three weeks, before going into oak, 100% for the grand vin,
Chateau Sociando-Mallet (typically 20000 cases per annum), although in the case of the second wine La
Demoiselle de Sociando-Mallet 20% goes into oak and the rest remains in
cuve. The row upon row of barrels, which I observed being cleaned and
prepared when I last visited, is an impressive sight for any chateau, let alone
one which does not rank among the Cru Classé properties. Although of course, as I suggested
in my introduction, Sociando-Mallet is the prime example for anyone wishing to
illustrate the outdated nature of the
1855 classification. The wine is then bottled, without fining or filtration.
Jean Gautreau has been a meticulous guardian of Sociando-Mallet, and has elevated the quality here so that the estate comfortably ranks alongside many other Cru Classé chateaux. Talking with Gautreau reveals which chateaux he sees as members of his peer group; they include certain troisième cru estates, such as the recently revitalised Giscours, although I feel that in truth he may set his sights a little higher than even this. There have been nearly four decades of investment and firm direction at Sociando-Mallet, and the wines are excellent as a result. They have a pure, cool style which oozes class, rather than the rustic charm and less well delineated palate that characterises some other estates of the Haut-Médoc. Nevertheless, no matter how brilliant the wines are now, I think this is an estate still on the way up, and that Gautreau would like to squeeze another few drops of excellence from the fruit he harvests. (17/5/02, updated 12/3/08)
Contact details:
Address: Chateau Sociando-Mallet, 33180 St-Estèphe
Telephone: +33 (0) 5 56 73 38 80
Fax +33 (0) 5 56 73 38 88
Chateau Sociando-Mallet - Tasting Notes
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Chateau Sociando-Mallet (Haut-Médoc)
2007: Firm fruit, more aromatic and open than La Demoiselle, showing a
brighter character. It is 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot and 5% Cabernet
Franc. Some flash on the palate, moderate midpalate substance, with firm tannins
apparent throughout. Some weight, and grip on the finish. Gentle in terms of
fruit and flesh, but very firmly composed. From my
2007 Bordeaux
en primeur assessment. 14-15+/20 (April 2008)
La Demoiselles de Sociando-Mallet (Haut-Médoc) 2007: The second wine. Rather reserved
on the nose, with a slightly medicinal quality to the fruit. Gentle palate, a
little sweetness, but overt structure. A little freshness and sappiness to it,
but overall not the substance for the firm acidity and structure I think.
From my
2007 Bordeaux
en primeur assessment. 12.5-13.5+/20 (April 2008)
Chateau Sociando-Mallet
(Haut-Médoc) 2006: A fine, cassis fruit richness here, showing rather more
character and depth than the 2007. A nicely composed presence on the palate,
balanced rather than weighty or rich, with a fine grip. Good concentration. Lots
of tannin showing through at the finish. This is pretty well set up for the
future. From a Bordeaux 2006
assessment. 16.5-17+/20 (April 2008)
Chateau Sociando-Mallet (Haut-Médoc) 2006: A nice, open, dark fruit nose.
Pleasing, Rounded fruit, attractive, nice middleweight style, rather plump, but
with fresh acidity. Certainly showing a little more flesh than when tasted at
the chateau last year. An attractive package. From my
2006 Bordeaux assessment.
15.5-16.5/20 (April 2007)
Chateau Sociando-Mallet (Haut-Médoc) 2006: CS 55%, M 40%, CF 5%. This
has much more depth of colour than the corresponding second wine. Quite opaque
in fact, with a glossy appearance. Darker, richer and yet more reserved on the
palate. Lots of tannic structure, not a lot of flesh and texture at present, but
this will probably come with time in oak. Great purity, but intrinsically still
not fabulously concentrated. A difficult vintage I think. 15-16/20 (December 2006)
La Demoiselle de Sociando-Mallet (Haut-Médoc) 2006: The second wine of
Sociando-Mallet. A rather hard fruit nose here. Moderate flesh at
best on the palate, although it is somewhat more flattering than the 2007 La
Demoiselle. Plenty of hard structure, and overall a little brooding. It shows a
little more substance towards the finish where it is a little more flattering.
From a Bordeaux 2006
assessment. 13.5-14.5+/20 (April 2008)
La Demoiselle de Sociando-Mallet (Haut-Médoc) 2006: CS 50%, M 50%. With 80%
of the harvest in cuve and just 20% ageing in new oak, this was a sample
from cuve rather than barrel. Not much intensity of colour. Vibrant and
pure berry fruit on the nose. On the palate it has rather a light structure,
although plenty of fresh fruit. Attractive, but not really very substantial.
14-14.5/20 (December 2006)
Chateau Sociando-Mallet (Haut-Médoc) 2005: A very dark wine, with a
very expressive nose, full of pure dark fruits with a predominant cassis
character, very nicely defined, with notes of toasty oak, yet to integrate, in
the background. Lovely. Pure, well defined, elegance too though. Beautifully
balanced, well delineated structure, very nicely textured. Just perfectly
composed. What wonderful finesse. Even better than I recall from my tasting in
April 2005. 18/20 (December 2006)
Chateau Sociando-Mallet (Haut-Médoc) 2005: CS 55%, M 40%, CF 5%. Dark, moderately
intense wine, with a blue-purple rim. Attractive presence of dark fruits on the
nose, with good depth and interest. Very soft and textured on the palate, and
nicely ripe. Clearly delineated fruit, very well proportioned wine. Firm
structure, balanced, and a grippy finish. This is very good wine, with more
potential than you might expect. From my
2005 Bordeaux en primeur
tasting. 16.5-17.5/20 (April 2006)
La Demoiselle de Sociando-Mallet (Haut-Médoc) 2005: A much deeper colour than
the ensuing 2006 Demoiselle, with more fruit expression on the nose, with smoky
barrel notes and hints of liquorice. Rich palate, great purity of fruit, light
tannin structure in keeping with its status but providing a good backbone. Well
balanced wine, with considerable appeal. 16+/20 (December 2006)
Chateau Sociando-Mallet (Haut-Médoc) 2004: A glossy hue, and a lovely nose
of stylish, dark fruits. Quite fresh, cherry perfume, overall a very appealing
style. The palate is supple and softly composed at first, but there is substance
underneath it all, with nicely composed acidity and tannins. A vigorous
character, this is attractive with really very good potential. 17+/20 (February 2008)
Chateau Sociando-Mallet (Haut-Médoc) 2004: A lovely style, fresh and laden with fruit.
Fine presence, quite reserved and classically stylish, with a firm texture, but underneath
this a nice grippy backbone. It has fresh acidity and a well balanced
composition. Vibrancy and vigour here. Just as good as I recall from my tasting
at the estate last year. From a tasting of
2004 Bordeaux. 17+/20 (April 2007)
Chateau Sociando-Mallet (Haut-Médoc) 2004: Real character here,
classic styled, youthful smoky claret, quite pure fruit presented in a very
stylish fashion. Lovely extract and texture on the palate, quite fine, sweetly
textured though, with good grip. Fine style, weight and presence, yet just a
little dark in character as well as colour. Very good indeed. 17+/20 (December
2006)
La Demoiselle de Sociando-Mallet (Haut-Médoc) 2004: As with many of the wines
that follow, not including a couple tasted over dinner, this was served rather
cold in the cellar. It has only a slightly lighter colour than the corresponding
grand vin. Good depth of character on the nose, quite concentrated for a
second wine, smoky, with a little sous bois. Rather lightfooted on the
palate, nicely textured, with an appropriately low level of tannin. A good
style, but the 2005 La Demoiselle that followed is eminently superior. Good
though. 15/20 (December 2006)
Chateau Sociando-Mallet (Haut-Médoc) 2001: Also tasted at dinner;
incredibly good quality for the vintage. Very deep colour, aromatic and young,
with a claretty nose that reminds me a little of the 1997 in its youth, which
was a corker for the vintage. Textured, obvious but very well judged extract,
and fine tannins, fresh yet dense and quite serious. Some length too. Very good
indeed. 17+/20 (December 2006)
Chateau Sociando-Mallet (Haut-Médoc) 2000: There is a lovely depth of aroma
here, a nose full of leafy blackcurrant fruit, with a fresh and rather
surprising seam of mint and a green peppercorn lift. Nice weight, softly composed,
and still in possession of quite a grip and tannin beneath it all. There is very
good substance here. The nose is a little awkward at present, but overall I
still think this has much potential for the future. Very good indeed. 18+/20
(February 2008)
Chateau Sociando-Mallet (Haut-Médoc) 1997: This wine offers
plenty of 'wow' factor as it is poured. The colour impresses, it being a typically
youthful, deep red wine, with just a tinge of purple, but it is the nose that
excites. It offers so much character, with aromas of black olives, lead-pencil
shavings, mineral edged black fruits with a cassis edge, and a tarry,
cigar-box, smoky elegance which pleases no end. This rich display is
continued on the palate, which has sweet and spicy fruit, with a full
weight and rich, fat texture, cut through by a healthy presence of ripe
tannins which very much dominate towards the endpalate. The acidity is
fairly low, but this makes the wine all the more approachable.
Nevertheless, I don't think I would broach another bottle for two or
three years. Although from a weaker vintage, the team at Sociando-Mallet have
crafted a stunner here. 18/20 (May 2002)
Label
Chateau Sociando-Mallet (Haut-Médoc) 1996: This is an interesting opportunity
to retaste this wine, which was so redolent of mushrooms when I tasted it at the
domaine in 2006. Today it has a rather muted nose, but has a definite classic
left bank style which the vintage often clearly shows. It has a lovely
structure, perhaps a touch softer than I was expecting, but underneath there is
a good grip through the midpalate and end. Good, but it still needs time.
more importantly, it is certainly much better than last bottle. 17+/20 (February 2008)
Chateau Sociando-Mallet (Haut-Médoc) 1996: Tasted at dinner. Still a very dark colour.
Deep, dense fruit. Mushroomy on the nose; a stale, mouldy aroma. Rather well
described by one taster as le nez de torchon. Not at all typical of the
vintage; the 1996 Sociando has a very good reputation. Nevertheless the palate
retained all its fine texture and well defined lines. Indeed, past the nose,
this is a fine wine. But this is not a representative bottle I am sure. My only
query is why it wasn't withdrawn at tasting? No score. (December 2006)
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