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Chateau Rauzan-Gassies

It is impossible to deal with Rauzan-Gassies without turning my attention towards its twin, Rauzan-Ségla, for at least a brief moment. Whereas my Rauzan-Ségla profile opens with formative memories of mature vintages, particularly the 1982 and 1985, the latter having been a delicious favourite of mine for some time, it is unfortunately with less auspicious memories that I look at Rauzan-Gassies. My first experience of this estate was with the 1982, at a horizontal tasting of this vintage. It was corked, an unfortunate event that could afflict any such bottle, from prestigious classed growth estates or from lowly cru bourgeois properties, but for many years it remained my only chance, sadly missed, to break my Rauzan-Gassies duck. It was in fact not until much more recent vintages, tasted with the UGC or with the Quié family, modern-day proprietors of Rauzan-Gassies, that my palate and the wine proper, unspoilt by mouldy cork taint, finally met.

A history of Rauzan-Gassies begins, as I have already alluded, with the Rauzan estate which gave birth to Ségla as well as Gassies. The original Rauzan estate was created by Pierre des Mesures de Rauzan, who in 1661 purchased a large portion of the Médoc around Cantenac, the swath of land incorporating many vineyards that are today classed growths in their own right. Indeed, his purchases, which he augmented with vineyards acquired from neighbours over two decades, were the origin not only of his eponymous estate but also of the Pichon vineyards, which passed to the Longueville family through the marriage of Pierre's daughter, Therèse. This land was subsequently divided to give us Pichon-Baron and Pichon-Lalande, and following an exchange of vineyards, some ended up as part of Latour. Meanwhile the Rauzan property went from strength to strength, a strong market having developed in England as Rauzan travelled there to sell his wines.

There exists a tale of one Rauzan descendant, Jean, a noted parliamentarian of his era; his exploits in London are worth retelling, even if perhaps somewhat apocryphal. Rauzan is said to have chartered a ship and, having loaded it with barrels of his wine, sailed to London to moor on the banks of the Thames, where he set up as a floating wine merchant, selling his produce. Finding the locals less than eager to buy at his price, he turned the screws by tipping the first of his many barrels overboard. By the time several more had gone over the side, the punters cracked and began to buy rather than see the wine do no more than nourish the river fish. How much of this yarn is bare fact and how much is embellishment is difficult to tell, but I suspect this story is at least rooted in truth, and it certainly says something of the character of the man.  

Under the control of the Rauzan family the estate was no doubt well managed, and the wine good, as suggested by the purchase of several cases by Thomas Jefferson on his visit there in 1787. Nevertheless it became fragmented as it passed from one generation of the family to the next. The crunch came in 1792, during the Revolution, when the property was divided between Pierre Louis de Ségla, who took the majority share on marrying one Rauzan daughter, and a second daughter who married the Seigneur de Gassies. It is obviously this latter portion, perhaps one-third of the original estate, that gave rise to the Rauzan-Gassies of today. The chateau went with Rauzan-Ségla, and as a result the modern-day proprietors live at another of their properties, Chateau Bel Orme Tronquoy de Lalande.

Following the division it would seem quality was maintained on both sides, as at the time of the 1855 classification, the two estates were classed as second growths. During this time the property passed through the hands of several different owners, including a gentleman named Rhoné-Péraire who is credited with doing much to improve the estate. It was not until 1946, however, that Rauzan-Gassies came into the hands of the current proprietors, the Quié family. It was Paul Quié, a wine merchant from Bercy, which at the time was the focus of the wine trade in Paris. who acquired the estate. In 1968 he passed the mantle onto his son Jean-Michel and he in turn has, since 2001, gradually been turning over the running of the estate to the next generation, brother-sister duo Jean-Philippe and Anne-Françoise.

The Rauzan-Gassies vineyards lie around Margaux and Cantenac, on typically gravelly soils although with some areas where sand is also predominant. There are 28.5 hectares in total, which are 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc and 5% Petit Verdot. The vines have an average age of 35 years, are planted at a density of 10000 vines per hectare, and are harvested usually between 40 and 50 hl/ha. Where the work at Rauzan-Gassies differs from many other classed growth estates, however, is in the use of machines. Leaf removal in the summer is part manual, part by machine, but the use of machines for the final harvesting is perhaps more significant. Following a manual check through the vineyard, removing unsatisfactory berries and bunches, machines do the rest of the work. Speaking to Jean-Philippe Quié, it is clear that he is a unmoving advocate of the process; this is not just a desperate response to labour shortages or costs. Making a staunch defence of the technique, it was clear that machine harvesting is, for both Rauzan-Gassies and the other classed growth Quié property Croizet-Bages, here to stay. Once in the winery the must sees a cold maceration lasting 48 hours, and up to 10% of the juice may be bled off at this time to give greater concentration in the final wine. There is temperature-controlled fermentation in stainless steel vats, followed by 12 months in oak, with 30% new barrels each vintage. At the end the wines are blended by taste, fined with egg white and bottled.

When it comes to Rauzan-Gassies I must disclose that I have eaten as a guest of the family. This sort of thing isn't unusual, although it isn't that commonly you see critics putting their hands up and admitting it unprompted, no matter how much of a consumer "watchdog" they may think themselves to be. I believe I have scored the wines described in my tasting notes below fairly despite that gratuity, but now you, the reader, at least has the necessary information to decide for yourself. As a broad statement on the wines, I feel they are good, but certainly not top class, especially when considering the estate's second growth peers, and if the 2001 is any guide, these wines mature early also. Overall I think this estate still has much untapped potential; there is an illustrious origin and history, the vineyards are not dissimilar to those of some renowned neighbours, and there is a new and youthful team taking the reins. It will be interesting to see what the Quié family do with Rauzan-Gassies in the coming years. (22/1/09)

Contact details:
Address: Domaines J-M Quié, 135 rue de Paris, 94220 Charenton le Pont
Telephone: +33 (0) 5 81 04 20 56
Fax +33 (0) 5 57 88 71 88
Internet: www.domaines-quie.com

Chateau Rauzan-Gassies - Tasting Notes

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Chateau Rauzan-Gassies (Margaux) 2009: Cabernet Sauvignon 75%, Merlot 23%, Petit Verdot 2%. This wine has a black hue and a crimson rim, and a very bright nose of creamy cherry and forest fruits, presented in a very lifted, fresh and open style. The palate has a broad but creamy substance. Well-honed tannins, quite firm but svelte, bright and fresh. An elegant style within the context of the commune, and for Gassies a very good effort - probably the best wine I have tasted from this estate in a number of years. From my 2009 Bordeaux primeur assessment. 16.5-17.5+/20 (March 2010)

Chateau Rauzan-Gassies (Margaux) 2008: Hints of blackberry and cream here, in a chalky, mineral style. Cool on entry, lighter and leaner in the midpalate when compared to Ségla, but more juicy in terms of fruit. Nice tannins at the core, ripe, with good acidity. It lacks great substance and definition, but the wines here do seem to be improving. From my 2008 Bordeaux primeur assessment. 15-16+/20 (April 2009)

Chateau Rauzan-Gassies (Margaux) 2007: There are some appealing although admittedly fleeting aromatics here, with a little honeyed oak too. Notes of violet perfume. Attractive, supple fruit on the palate, not overworked, and more accessible than some. Chalky tannins. Fresh, lifted, with pebbly red fruit flavour. A decent wine. From a tasting of 2007 Bordeaux at two years of age. 15+/20 (October 2009)

Chateau Rauzan-Gassies (Margaux) 2007: This is considerably more reticent on the nose than the Rauzan-Ségla, but it has some attractive fruit alongside the oak. Supple, rounded, becoming a little more lean through the midpalate. Appealing, peppery, ripe and dense tannins and good acidity. Some perfume here, a grippy finish, and a rather aromatic length. Good, but it just lacks a little precision. From my 2007 Bordeaux en primeur assessment. 15-16+/20 (April 2008)

Chateau Rauzan-Gassies (Margaux) 2006: Bright fruit and toasty oak here. Polished, slightly plump in style, but with appealing aromatics, smoky charcoal. The palate has less substance than a number of other wines especially at the second growth level (although to be fair this was tasted in a room full of other wines from the superb 2005 vintage), with a slightly juicy, loose-knit element to it. A ripe, gentle substance, slightly fleshy texture, and a good tannic core, this certainly shows the good results of recent efforts at Gassies, although it still lags behind its peers. Good grippy finish though. An interloper in a Bordeaux 2005 tasting. 15+/20 (November 2009)

Chateau Rauzan-Gassies (Margaux) 2006: The aromas of nutty oak and slightly meaty fruit here, with a rather diffuse fruit alongside. Soft and approachable on the palate, with gentle appeal. Soft forest fruits, gently grainy tannins beneath, this wine has some good points but it has less focus than the corresponding Rauzan-Ségla, and also a shorter finish. From a tasting of 2006 Bordeaux at two years of age. 15+/20 (October 2008)

Chateau Rauzan-Gassies (Margaux) 2005: There is very dark fruit here, showing a trace of vanilla, although it is not as open or expressive as some. The palate has a soft style, broad and although it certainly has a presence on the palate it lacks direction or focus. Nevertheless it has appropriate grip showing on the finish, and it is certainly a good effort for the estate. Decent wine. From my tasting of 2005 Bordeaux at two years of age. 15-16+/20 (October 2007)

Chateau Rauzan-Gassies (Margaux) 2001: From a dinner at Bel-Orme Tronquoy de Lalande with the Quié family. Slightly gamey tea-leaf fruit on the nose here, with delicate notes of violets and perfume, raspberry and cream. A nice weight on the palate, lots of pepper, supple and gently composed, but with lots of structure underneath and coming out at the finish. Plenty of flattery and flesh here, but like the 2002 Croizet-Bages tasted first it needs a little more vigour and definition. 15+/20 (April 2008)