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Chateau Pibran

Most wine drinkers who are familiar with the commune of Pauillac, on the left bank of the Gironde, will have heard of this successful Cru Bourgeois estate, although naturally not everyone will have tasted its wines. Nevertheless its reputation seems to be an admirable one, a source of solid, sometimes fleshy wines which were sufficiently good to see the property ranked as a Cru Bourgeois Supérieur in the 2003 classification - before the list was annulled in a Bordeaux court following a legal challenge (which was nothing to do with Pibran), that is. And so it is a rare beast; there are few attractive and affordable alternatives to the wines of the classed growth estates in Pauillac. And that Pibran is such a viable alternative should perhaps not be that surprising; near neighbours include Mouton-Rothschild, Pontet-Canet and Lynch-Bages. Today, however, such a succinct account of Pibran's position does not tell the whole story. Under the umbrella of Christian Seely (below) and AXA Millésimes, since its purchase from the Billa family in 1987, Pibran is now finding a new direction. There has been considerable investment, reorganisation and revitalisation. Perhaps the most significant and tangible addition is a new chai, enabling the wines of Pibran to be vinified on the estate rather than at Pichon-Baron, AXA Millésimes' other Pauillac jewel, but there is also much going on in the vineyards. These have been extensively replanted over the years, with the addition of improved drainage.

Christian Seely of AXA MillesimesThe estate is located to the north of the town of Pauillac, close to the Chenal de Gaer, a stream which divides the vineyards of Pauillac in two, and it is graced by a rather understated, single-storey chateau which overlooks the vines and which dates from the end of the 19th Century. The soils underfoot are typical of the region, the vineyards lying on one of the many gravel ridges. All told there are 17 hectares of vines, the estate having been augmented by the purchase of the neighbouring La Tour Pibran in 2001, these being predominantly Merlot which takes up 54% of the vineyard, followed by Cabernet Sauvignon at 45% and Petit Verdot at 1%. AXA Millésimes' technical director Jean-René Matignon (who is also régisseur at Pichon-Baron) has opted for more Merlot, unusual for the commune, as he feels much of the Pibran terroir suits this variety. The vines are aged over 30 years on average, a relatively youthful domaine which reflects recent replanting. Following a manual harvest the fruit is fermented in temperature-controlled stainless steel, the process under the direction of Matignon and the team from Pichon-Baron, before going into oak, with 50% of the barrels replaced per annum, for a period of 12-15 months. The grand vin is Chateau Pibran, the name La Tour Pibran is now used for the second wine, and there are about 4500 cases produced per annum.

Merlot has a starring role in the new Pibran, as it now contributes to a very significant part of the final blend. Although the wine was often a 50-50 mix (or thereabouts) of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, more recent vintages have quite noticeably favoured Merlot. The 2003 was 65% Merlot, and the 2006 set a new record with a blend that included 70%. Whether this is the right direction for the vineyard remains to be seen. I must confess that the few bottles of 'old' Pibran that I tasted I enjoyed, with particular praise due for the 1996 vintage, whereas more recent vintages such as the 2004 and 2006 did not hold as much promise. Having said that, I must point out of course that these are hardly comparable vintages, with 1996 being clearly (although a few wine commentators still get this wrong) the best vintage of the 1990s for the left bank, with only the two vintages at either end of the decade, 1990 and 2000, comparable or superior. And of course, Pibran is still very much a work in progress. I look forward to tasting future vintages from more successful years; my expectations will be high. (19/9/07)

Contact details:
Address: Chateau Pibran, 33250 Pauillac
Telephone: +33 (0) 5 56 73 17 17
Fax: +33 (0) 5 56 73 17 28

Chateau Pibran - Tasting Notes

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2007

Chateau Pibran (Pauillac) 2007: An attractive, sweet, open nose here, showing accessible fruit, which is 55% Cabernet Sauvignon and 45% Merlot. A touch buttery, from the oak, but a cool style. Lots of structure, nice flesh too, a little touch of austerity, quite classic and firmly composed. Decent wine. From my 2007 Bordeaux en primeur assessment. 13.5-14.5+/20 (April 2008)

2006

Chateau Pibran (Pauillac) 2006: A new blend for Pibran, with the Merlot increased to 70%, Cabernet now just 30%. Previously 50-50. Sweet fruit on the nose, smoky, a bit meaty. Fresh, rather light, not a lot of depth. Firm, ripe tannins and good acidity. It lacks character. It may have more appeal when it has fleshed out in barrel, but not impressive today. From my 2006 Bordeaux assessment. 13-14/20 (June 2007)

2004

Chateau Pibran (Pauillac) 2004: A 50-50 blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. It seems rather closed on the nose, but is attractive enough in what it does express. Slightly plump on the palate, again some appeal, with a soft but overall nice style. Moderate acidity and some grip beneath for backbone. A good wine but lacks real presence. From a tasting of 2004 Bordeaux. 14.5/20 (June 2007)

2001

Chateau Pibran (Pauillac) 2001: CS 50%, M 45%, CF 5%. The colour here is showing early maturity, and there is a lovely mature bouquet, of meaty and rusty fruit. This is very typically Pauillac. It has a lovely style on the palate too, although soft and rounded. There is still some evident tannins although it is approachable now. Not the definition or vigour of a great wine, but plenty of pleasure to be found here. From the 2008 France Under One Roof event. 16.5/20 (March 2008)

1996

Chateau Pibran (Pauillac) 1996: A dark, richly coloured wine, quite deep. A stylish nose, full and expressive, a little nuttiness detectable behind the dark fruit profile. Similar character on the palate, which has a full texture, although there is a touch of greenness to the fruit and fresh acidity which lend it a rather bright mouthfeel. I find it rather attractive overall, through to the slightly plump finish. Good. From a 1996 Cru Bourgeois tasting. 16/20 (June 2007)

Chateau Pibran (Pauillac) 1996: Good deep colour. The nose carries cedary, pencil shaving aromas, over a layer of intense, smoky blackcurrant fruit. Lovely texture, with an edge of glycerol, backed up by firm yet supple tannins and low acidity. There's plenty of fruit. A nicely structured, focused, fleshed out wine for drinking over the next five to eight years. From a Cru Bourgeois tasting. 16+/20 (April 2002)