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Chateau Phélan-Ségur

Chateau Phélan-Ségur dates from the early 19th century, when two St Estèphe estates were brought together, purchased by the wealthy M Phélan. The lesser of these was the Clos de Garramey, but the more impressive was Ségur, once part of the estate of Nicolas-Alexandre de Ségur, otherwise known as the Prince of Vines, who owned a few other estates that went by the illustrious names of Brane-Mouton, Lafite (both destined to come to the Rothschild family) and Latour. Hence, with the construction of a most imposing residence which puts many classed growth properties to shame, including an impressive chai and cellar, Chateau Phélan-Ségur was born. The magnificent estate was, however, subsequently sold to the Delon family in 1924 who held tenure here through much of the 20th century.

In 1985 the property was sold on to Xavier Gardinier, onetime head of Champagne houses Pommery and Lanson. Gardinier's intention was to raise quality at Phélan-Ségur; despite the formidable reputation of the Delon family today, some less than exemplary wines had been made near the end of the tenure. Gardinier' made a brave decision and either recalled, or refused to sell, the 1983, 1984 and 1985 vintages, a move no doubt questioned by his financiers, but if you want to raise heads in Bordeaux this is a sure-fire way of doing it. Although the subsequent lawsuit in which Gardinier alleged herbicides used on the estate had contaminated the wines, making them foul and undrinkable, suggests he may not have had much choice. Gardinier started from scratch, and in subsequent vintages quality has risen and risen. The estate is now run by Thierry Gardinier, a respected Bordeaux figure, and one to whom us poor consumers should occasionally be grateful; he was one of the few proprietors to avoid raising prices in the weak 1997 vintage, when others were jumping on the high-price-poor-wine bandwagon. In 1998, however, he had to opt out of the en primeur market; whilst others were forced to lower their prices, Gardinier wanted a price rise in line with increased quality. He subsequently sold his wine - with ease - two years later. In 2003 the newly revised Cru Bourgeois classification saw Phélan-Ségur ranked as an Exceptionnel property; following the annulment of this ill-fated classification in 2007, however, this ranking is no longer valid for any of the classified properties.

The vineyards at Phélan-Ségur amount to 64 ha in all, approximately one third of the estate which is 180 ha all told. It should be noted that the vines have illustrious neighbours, namely Chateau Montrose and Chateau Calon-Ségur. The vineyards are located on a gravelly mound, and are planted with 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc at a density of about 8500 vines/ha and an average age approaching 35 years. The winery is high tech, with Gardinier being one of the few proprietors to admit to reverse osmosis, to which both the 1998 and 1999 vintages were subjected. Fermentation is temperature-controlled in stainless steel, all this kit being stored in Phélan-Ségur's capacious chai. The wine sees eighteen months in oak, 50% new, before fining, filtration and bottling. The grand vin is Chateau Phélan-Ségur, production 20000 cases per annum, with 12000 cases of the second wine, Franck Phélan.

My tasting experience encompasses a number of recent vintages of Chateau Phélan-Ségur, and in all honesty none have really disappointed. There are even some moderately exciting wines among the crowd, the 2000 had holds much promise but unfortunately was rather closed down when I last tasted it, and so certain comment is perhaps rather difficult. In contrast, 2003 was open, evocative and an excellent example of the vintage. Other vintages certainly have merit, and the 1998 is a good effort from what is a lesser vintage specifically for the left bank, and compares favourably with one or two other wines from that year which I have tasted. (10/3/05, updated 10/1/07)

Contact details:
Address: Chateau Phélan-Ségur, 33180 St-Estèphe
Telephone: +33 (0) 5 56 59 30 09
Fax +33 (0) 5 56 59 30 04

Chateau Phélan-Ségur - Tasting Notes

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Chateau Phélan-Ségur (St Estèphe) 2009: A very dark hue, with a nose of macerated black cherry. The palate possesses a rather dry shell of fruit, supple and fairly reserved, and the tannins here seem quite well composed. There is nice acidity, and a touch of vigour to it. Only moderate concentration here, but as a whole it is sensibly done, and therefore admirable. Very good effort from another over-performing estate. From my 2009 Bordeaux primeur assessment. 16-17+/20 (March 2010)

Chateau Phélan-Ségur (St Estèphe) 2008: A big, feral, meaty style here, not showing much freshness. A big and bold palate, textured and oily, overall rather foursquare. There is good fruit character though, although they have a rather sweet, cola-tinged edge. Certainly an interesting mouthful! From my 2008 Bordeaux primeur assessment. 15-16+/20 (April 2009)

Chateau Phélan-Ségur (St Estèphe) 2007: Attractive fruit on the nose of this wine, showing a style nicely typical of the appellation, with gravelly but accessible fruit. Moderate weight on the palate, not particularly generous admittedly, and like other wines a touch hard and lean. It has a more appropriate composition though. From a tasting of 2007 Bordeaux at two years of age. 14.5+/20 (October 2009)

Chateau Phélan-Ségur (St Estèphe) 2006: This has sweet, nutty oak and dark fruit evident on the nose. A supple, gentle character on the palate, but with a lot of tannins underneath, although admittedly with a ripe feel to them. An appealing style overall, although I think it just lacks a little flesh and substance to round it out. From a tasting of 2006 Bordeaux at two years of age. 15+/20 (October 2008)

Chateau Phélan-Ségur (St Estèphe) 2006: A pleasing nose, of dark, toasty fruit. Nice style, a touch of flesh to the fore, but a slightly hollow midpalate, with lots of structure beneath. It has a nice character though and I hope it would flesh out a little in barrel. Lots of firm grip and good acidity. Decent wine. From my 2006 Bordeaux assessment. 15-16/20 (April 2007)

Chateau Phélan-Ségur (St Estèphe) 2005: This has a very dark hue, and lovely, aromatic, dense, dark and rather gravelly fruit. The palate has a rather pure character with an appealing leanness, and a raft of attractive red fruits presented in a direct, very well defined frame. This certainly has a pleasing nature, backed up by good extract and substance. There is a lot of stuffing for the cellar here. Very good indeed. From my tasting of 2005 Bordeaux at two years of age. 17+/20 (October 2007)

Chateau Phélan-Ségur (St Estèphe) 2004: CS 47%, M 51%, CF 2%. A little Cabernet Franc in this vintage for Phélan-Ségur. Lovely, open, sweet fruit on the nose, the oak is still resolving here, but it shows a good concentration of fruit too. Good depth, structured, very complete style, a little dense, gritty and perhaps a bit tight. Lovely structure overall and nicely balanced components. Very good potential here. I like this a little more than my last tasting. From a Bordeaux 2004 tasting. 16.5+/20 (November 2007)

Chateau Phélan-Ségur (St Estèphe) 2004: Rather sweet blackcurrant and blackberry fruit on the nose here. Firm, stony, structured style on the palate, nicely balanced with fruit and texture and a grippy structure beneath it. Good acid. Rather primary, oak-derived dark fruit crumble character. Good style. From my 2004 Bordeaux assessment. 16+/20 (October 2006)

Chateau Phélan-Ségur (St Estèphe) 2003: This has the now quite familiar mark of 2003 on the nose, exotic cherry fruit, but marked with a deeper, complex, smoked meat note. On the palate, a pleasing extract and texture is balanced by a level of acidity which is handsome for the vintage. Overall this has a very nice style, and shows the quality that could be achieved in St Estèphe in this atypical year. A good wine, where the superficial appeal is matched by some depth and appropriate structure. Very impressive. 17-17.5/20 (November 2006)

Chateau Phélan-Ségur (St Estèphe) 2001: 60% CS, 40% M. More open and relaxed than the 2004, which I tasted recently. Developing some very nice complex notes on the nose, appealing soft fruits, and a little herby edge. Rather cool style on the palate, very gentle entry, soft and sweet, ripe fruit, nicely balanced, with a good depth. This has an almost supple character. Quite a bit of grip on the finish and a nice length. Approachable for drinking now but it has a little more to give yet I think. 16+/20 (November 2007)

Chateau Phélan-Ségur (St Estèphe) 2001: The nose is not giving much away here, just some dark fruits with a hint of oak. A good, balanced palate. It has medium weight and some elegance, although with plenty of spicy tannins in the background. Some sweet fruit. Keep for five to six years. This is quite delicious. 15.5+/20 (May 2004)

Chateau Phélan-Ségur (St Estèphe) 2000: Rather evolved compared to the more youthful wines also tasted on this day. It has a deep, brooding, claretty nose which certainly appeals to me. Full, fresh, with lots of extract on the palate. There is good grip underneath, but nice flesh on top, and overall a nice style. This is very nice indeed. From a Bordeaux tasting with Bibendum. 16.5+/20 (April 2007)

Chateau Phélan-Ségur (St Estèphe) 2000: A really attractive nose here, just closing down I think, as the aromas are fleeting, rather primary, exotic and deeply fruited, combined with a little nutty oak, and they are not matched on the palate. Nevertheless this wine has a very rounded, complete, balanced composition, with a fresh, acidic structure. It just lacks a little flavour at present, but this will come with time. Short finish, I suspect this too will alter when the wine opens out. I think this has lovely potential. 16.5-17/20 (November 2006)

Chateau Phélan-Ségur (St Estèphe) 1998: A serious nose to this wine, with dark, smoky fruits and a classic, restrained character. This is impressive. A good, sweet texture on entry, with soft ripe tannins, sweet fruit and low acidity. This is delicious and approachable now although it will improve in the cellar for three to four years. I can see why Gardinier was confident about his selling price. 16+/20 (November 2004)