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Chateau Malescot St-Exupéry

Chateau Malescot St-Exupéry as we know it today came about in 1955, when purchased by father and son team Paul and Roger Zuger, but the estate has a much longer history than this suggests. Records indicate wine was produced here as far back as 1608, and it was during the 17th century that the true origins of the estate lie.

In 1697 the land and chateau was sold by Louise Ecoisses to Simon Malescot, King's Counsel to Louis XIV at the Parliament of Bordeaux. Malescot not only gave his name to the property, he and his descendants also added a large house together with numerous outbuildings. Under the Malescot family this was very much a working estate, and they enjoyed control over it, without disruption, through the Revolution. About this time, however, there began a gradual division of what must have been an impressive estate, beginning with a split between three Malescot descendents, the L'Abbé Malescot, his sister and his sister-in-law. The estate was broken up further during the ensuing years; in 1813 half the estate came to François Benoit Dunogues, who then sold it to Louis Pierlot in 1825. Upon his death, his family had to sell the property, and it was acquired by Comte Jean-Baptiste St-Exupéry in 1827. Not to be outdone by the Malescots, the estate was soon renamed Chateau Malescot St-Exupéry, and was expanded by the inclusion of vineyards from Chateau Loyac and Chateau La Colonie, the latter of which belonged to the Comte's wife. In 1830 Jean-Baptiste died, leaving a widow who soon racked up some significant debts, and as a consequence the property came onto the market in 1853. At about this time it was ranked as a third growth in the 1855 classification, and this is clearly declared in the sale documents, together with a description of the vineyards.

The new owner was a banker from Bordeaux named Fourcade, who was buying up land in the area, including the long-forgotten Dubignon, one of the smallest crus in the 1855 classification, now no longer in existence as the vineyards were subsequently absorbed into the Malescot estate. Just as the veuve St-Exupéry's creditors were about to place the estate up for auction, Fourcade bought it all and paid off all the outstanding debts, and over the ensuing decades set about revitalising Malescot St-Exupéry. The vineyards saw a huge expansion and replanting and the outbuildings were repaired, and he refurbished and equipped the cellars, including the installation of a gravity-feed system for transporting grapes. Sadly Fourcade did not enjoy the fruits of his labours for too long, as he died in 1866, the property passing to a consortium of owners, the most notable of which was probably Monsieur Boissac, who in 1885 was responsible for the construction of the chateau that still stands today. There was further expansion and investment, but despite this the property once again came up for sale, this time in 1901. This was a period of uncertainty for Bordeaux, with the crises of phylloxera and oidium recently passed, and with economic depression and conflict yet to come; no doubt these events influenced their decision to sell. The estate passed to a German Herr Lerbs from Bremen, then to the German firm Seigneitz, and thus it was confiscated by the French during the Great War. It then passed to a Frenchman named Fouquet, and by the time the next war arrived it was under the control of an English administrator, WH Chaplin, who subsequently also purchased Marquis d'Alesme Becker. Following World War II the English owners left the estate to gradually decline, and it was not until the aforementioned Zuger family entered the scene that the fortunes of Malescot St-Exupéry were to turn. At the time of purchase there were just 7 hectares of vineyards. The Zugers purchased both Malescot and Alesme-Becker, and have put much into the two estates, improving quality, before they were divided after Paul Zuger's death. Malescot has passed to Paul's son Roger, and then to the next generation Jean-Luc. Under the Zugers the vineyards have expanded to cover 23.5 hectares, and many improvements and innovations have been implemented. During the process the aforementioned Dubignon vineyards, which had been split from the estate once again at the time of the 1901 sale, and which were now called Dubignon-Talbot, were acquired by a consortium of buyers, including Zuger as well as Pierre Ginestet and Jean Cordier. Thus the name of Dubignon (and Dubignon-Talbot, which would no doubt be of importance to Cordier, who owned Chateau Talbot) disappeared forever.

The vineyards, some of which abut those of Chateau Margaux, have a fairly typical constitution for the appellation of Margaux, with a layer of gravel up to ten metres deep in places, over a layer of rock which is a mix of marl, clay and chalk, with some iron deposits. They are planted with 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc and 5% Petit Verdot, at a density of 10000 vines/ha, with an average age of about 35 years. The harvest is manual into small trays, sorted at the winery, and 100% destemmed. Fermentation is temperature-controlled, using indigenous yeast, with some gentle pumping over. The wines of Malescot and Alesme-Becker shared the same cellar until the 1972 vintage, when the family purchased the old Desmirail cellars from a local doctor, who had acquired them from Chateau Palmer. Malolactic fermentation occurs in vat or in barrel, where the wine rests on its lees with some batonnage, and is racked only twice. After 14-16 months in barrel, of which 80% are new every vintage, the wine is bottled without fining or filtration. The grand vin here is Chateau Malescot St-Exupéry, 13500 cases per annum, and the second wine is La Dame de Malescot, of which there are just 3500 cases per annum. The wines, in my experience, have a quality that exceeds the property's reputation and price tag. I'm happy to say that I have purchased vintages at ten years of age, approaching their drinking window, at very reasonable prices. Older vintages are, of course, to be treated with caution; it is in the past two or three decades, when the actions of the Zuger's have had some effect, that the wine has become an excellent buy. As confirmation, I can report that I have enjoyed a number of bottles from the 1980s over the years. (14/7/05, updated 25/4/07)

Contact details:
Address: Chateau Malescot St-Exupéry, 33460 Margaux
Telephone: +33 (0) 5 57 88 70 68
Fax +33 (0) 5 57 88 35 80
Internet: www.malescot.com

Chateau Malescot St-Exupéry - Tasting Notes

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Chateau Malescot St-Exupéry (Margaux) 2008: Dense and withdrawn, with a slightly crunchy edge to the black fruits. Cool and creamy on entry, with roasted cherry character. There is a juiciness here, but also slightly chewy tannins and a sweet, confected edge. Nevertheless, this has good texture and a little length. There is a hint of promise here. From my 2008 Bordeaux primeur assessment. 15-16+/20 (April 2009)

Chateau Malescot St-Exupéry (Margaux) 2005: This is very pure in style on the nose, and rather expressive, with a wealth of deep cassis fruit. Dense and a little spicy, pure and rounded, but with a little less texture and depth than I was expecting. Nevertheless, it is quite grippy, firm and structured, and that grip comes out a lot on the finish. Firm with a good presence of acidity. Good wine but there are some that overshadow it in this tasting. From my tasting of 2005 Bordeaux at two years of age. 16.5+/20 (October 2007)

Chateau Malescot St-Exupéry (Margaux) 2004: Very closed down. Fine texture and weight on the palate though, with well knit, supple, velutinous tannins. Lots of texture and presence here, with firm acidity. The character is difficult to assess in such a closed state, but this will be wonderful after a at least a decade in the cellar. From my 2004 Bordeaux assessment. 17-18+/20 (October 2006)

Chateau Malescot St-Exupéry (Margaux) 2003: A touch of perfume here, with mineral-tinged fruit and a nutty edge from some residual oak. Lovely cool, stylish entry, but then quite structured and fine through the midpalate, with some precise fruit. Good acidity, a lovely blackberry style of fruit, and a perfumed edge. Nice grippy finish, but the tannins shouldn't cause any difficulties here. From my 2003 Bordeaux assessment. 17+/20 (October 2005)

Chateau Malescot St-Exupéry (Margaux) 1995: A dark hue, not opaque though, and still with a good fresh-red tinge. Nose is lovely, notes of roasted meats, fleeting elements of cherries and blackcurrant fruit, but also darker and more maturing characteristics including black olives, game, rust and sweet, fresh tea leaves. A fine palate, fresh and light-footed rather than ponderous, moderate weight, cool but with good extract, almost supple towards the finish. Perhaps a bit lean in midpalate - will it fatten out? Delicious, well outside the creamy spectrum of modern Bordeaux, and a fine food wine. Still on the way up, too. From a 1995 Bordeaux tasting. 17+/20 (March 2010)

Chateau Malescot St-Exupéry (Margaux) 1995: A dark, maturing but still vibrant hue. Good depth to the nose, which offers a little aniseed and bay leaf complexity to the spiced, macerated blackcurrant fruit. A lovely, cool entry, with nice extract and substance. A good grippy core of tannin, wrapped in black olive fruit. Balanced, elegant texture, and a fine persistence on the palate. Very drinkable now with a few hours in the decanter, but will only improve over the next ten years. Very good indeed. From a 1995 vintage ten years on tasting. 17+/20 (December 2005)

Chateau Malescot St-Exupéry (Margaux) 1990: Maturing, glossy, fairly deep hue. Fading a little at the rim. Glorious nose - classic; mature, gravelly, sweetly developed fruit. Lovely texture, seamless yet fleshy, with good structure beneath. Cinnamon spice, with delicately roasted meat. Lovely, fluid, elegant palate. Burnt notes. This is lovely. Drink over the next 8-10 years. 18+/20 (July 2005)

Chateau Malescot St-Exupéry (Margaux) 1988: Maturing hue. The nose is full of promise, with emerging complex notes like the 1990. Sooty, and some hard iron character. Full, sweet, seamless wine. Quite tannic still, although it can be drunk now with pleasure. This should continue to blossom over the next 4-5 years, and drink well thereafter. This is lovely. 18+/20 (July 2005)

Chateau Malescot St-Exupéry (Margaux) 1988: A dark ruby-purple colour. Quite an earthy element to the nose here, but otherwise the overall bouquet is unexciting. Good attack on the palate with upfront, spicy fruit, a nice chewy mouthfeel, all backed up by good tannins. Finishes with considerable length. From a Bordeaux 1988 horizontal. 15.5/20 (May 2000)

Chateau Malescot St-Exupéry (Margaux) 1983: Another wine showing some loss of colour. Mature. Raisins, cinnamon, nutmeg and sultana infused nose. lean texture, showing raisined fruit. Fully integrated, no grip at all, with a short finish. Enjoyable, but at the end of its life. No further improvement is to be expected here. Drink up. 17/20 (July 2005)

Chateau Malescot St-Exupéry (Margaux) 1982: Showing marked loss of colour. Obviously very mature. Lovely nose, reflecting this; meaty, toffee, woody, truffles. Fine texture, showing a little grip despite its age, but largely quite integrated tannins. Still a little extract and a good texture, too. A little plump, even. Lovely. Drink now. 18/20 (July 2005)