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Chateau Filhot

Like many other Sauternes chateaux, the exact origins of the Filhot estate remain a little obscure. The property was known as the Maison Noble de Verdoulet until it was purchased by the Filhot family in 1709. It was almost certainly already established as a vineyard, although when the vines were planted is not known. The Filhots seemed more preoccupied with constructing a fine country residence, and with the pine woods of the Landes just metres away this must have been a wonderful location to build a family home. First came the imposing chateau which still stands today, with pavilions added in the 19th Century. Then came the landscaped gardens, designed by Fischer, in 1845. That isn't to say the vineyards were neglected. The wine developed a fabulous reputation, much higher than it enjoys today. Amazingly the wine sold for the same price as Yquem, and Thomas Jefferson, oenophile and American ambassador to France, ranked the wine directly behind its more illustrious neighbour.

In 1788 Gabriel-Barthélémy-Romain de Filhot purchased the Barsac property Chateau Coutet; this explains the uncanny resemblance between the Filhot and Coutet labels. He had little time to enjoy his new acquisition, however, as he fell to the guillotine in 1794. The estate was confiscated, but eventually returned to the Filhots, but subsequently it came to Josephine de Lur-Saluces, of Chateau d'Yquem, by marriage. The Lur-Saluces family maintained and enlarged the estate, and saw it ranked as one of fourteen deuxième cru properties in the 1855 classification of Sauternes and Barsac. With time, however, the estate saw neglect and had dwindled from an impressive 120 ha to a mere 20. In 1935 Marquis Bertrand de Lur-Saluces sold it to Comte Étienne de Lacarelle, who had married his sister.

Their grandson, Henri de Vaucelles, took responsibility for Chateau Filhot in 1974, and is today assisted by his son, Gabriel. The task of replanting and restoration was a formidable and costly undertaking, but he has worked hard and doubtless Filhot has improved, even if it has never returned to the greatness it has enjoyed in the past. The wines, in all honesty, underperform - some aspects of how the wines are made may go some way to explaining this, although de Vaucelles is reticent about practices in the chai. There are now 62 hectares (of a 350 hectares estate) planted up, in several plots northwest of the chateau, the position of which makes this the most southerly of all the classified Sauternes properties. The soil is sand, gravel and clay over a deep limestone bedrock, and the vines are 60% Semillon, 36% Sauvignon Blanc and 4% Muscadelle. Yields are between 15 and 18 hl/ha, and the harvest (in several tries) may be up to a week later than other communes due to the proximity of the woods which cool the vineyards. The must is chaptalised if deemed necessary. Until recently the wines were fermented in fibreglass and saw no or little oak maturation, most or all of the wine spending up to two years in fibreglass. Now, however, the chateau has temperature controlled stainless steel fermentation equipment and the wine is managed at between 19°C and 21°C, followed by blending during maturation which is in French Allier oak, one third of which is new each year.

The grand vin is Chateau Filhot. There is no second wine, one of Filhot's failings. Nevertheless, the result is a large production - de Vaucelles declares just over 6500 cases although some sources suggest the output may be almost double that - of fairly priced, widely distributed wine, which I suspect serves as an introduction to Sauternes for many. For some, those that find the richer wines of Sauternes simply too much, the lighter, fresher, less challenging Filhot may be the perfect after dinner wine. Those that find it unmoving, however, would do well to try one of the greats, such as Climens, Lafaurie-Peyraguey, Coutet or Rieussec before they give up on the brilliant sweet wines of Bordeaux. (25/8/04, updated 9/8/07, 30/7/08)

Contact details:
Address: Chateau Filhot, 33210 Sauternes
Telephone: +33 (0) 5 56 76 61 09
Fax +33 (0) 5 56 76 67 91
Internet: www.filhot.com

Chateau Filhot - Tasting Notes

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Chateau Filhot (Sauternes) 2007: No richness on the nose here, minerally and chalky, and a sweet and fleshy texture. Broad, with a good core of acidity, this has moderate presence and texture on the midpalate. A good honeyed, mineral finish. It lacks the impact of some other wines. A good Filhot, though. From my 2007 Bordeaux en primeur assessment. 15-16+/20 (April 2008)

Chateau Filhot (Sauternes) 2005: Not so rich on the nose, when compared to some of the other vintages tasted here. It is showing a rather steely Sauvignon Blanc character. On the palate, though, it demonstrates a good presence, with a foundation of gentle sweetness and a nice acid backbone. Rounded, sweet fruits, altogether nicely composed, with a fresh finish. This will develop well. 16.5+/20 (March 2008)

Chateau Filhot (Sauternes) 2003: A rich and aromatic nose here, in keeping with the vintage. A lovely presence on the palate, rich and fleshy, creamy even. It shows honey and vanilla in a rich and weighty frame, but underneath it is cut through by a surprising and welcome acidity. This is a success for Filhot. 17+/20 (March 2008)

Chateau Filhot (Sauternes) 2001: An attractive straw-lemon hue, bright and vibrant but perhaps not the depth that I seem to recall in some other wines of this vintage. At present the nose is just delightful, full of rock dust and orange peel, talcum and smoke, flower petals and fragrant rose water. The palate has plenty of density, a creamy and rounded nature despite a rather light texture, and a great purity around that rock dust character again. Quite a complete, elegant, vivacious style through the midpalate with nuances of citrus fruit, bitter lemon, ripe melon and crystalline pineapple. A simply gorgeous wine, although it shows little in the way of botrytis for such a great vintage, and yet it charms in other ways. But when the beautiful aromatics fade, will there be sufficient left behind? Not destined to be great I think, but it should still be very good indeed. 17.5+/20 (August 2007)

Chateau Filhot (Sauternes) 1999: This has good, overtly sweet aromatics, ripe fruits layered in honey. It has a nice impact on the palate, with freshness and sweetness combined. There is depth, botrytis and quince; it has more character than even the 1997. Nicely accessible. Another success for Filhot, and step up in quality for sure. 16.5+/20 (March 2008)

Chateau Filhot (Sauternes) 1998: The nose here carries attractive aromas of crystalline yellow fruits, and my first impression is that it is a very straightforward, gentle wine without any complexity. The palate is well composed, well balanced, showing weight and acidity, but as the nose suggests there is no real development here. I find it also lacks a little concentration on the endpalate. Nevertheless it has a decent presence, and finishes well. Good. From a tasting of 1998 Bordeaux. 15.5+/20 (August 2008)

Chateau Filhot (Sauternes) 1998: From a half bottle. A very pale, golden wine. Light botrytis on the nose, with white peach and floral aromas. Medium bodied on the palate, with good texture and some appealing botrytis character. Ample, mouthfilling, but not huge or hedonistic. Juicy white peach flavour, like the nose, with a touch of vanilla and cream. Succulent, balanced finish and some length. 15.5/20 (August 2004)

Chateau Filhot (Sauternes) 1997: There is a slightly chemical quality on the nose of this wine, rather like drying paint. I would be optimistic that this kind of aroma will disappear with bottle age, but I can not be certain. And it has a good style on the palate, rich but not overly weighty, with good acidity. Nicely textured, with good substance and structure. This may have good potential, provided that strange aroma - also noted on the palate - disappears with time. 16.5+/20 (March 2008)

Chateau Filhot (Sauternes) 1997: From a half bottle. A very pale wine, showing some botrytis alongside honey and crisp, white fruits. The palate is fresh, with some concentration, and certainly some good flavour. Some botrytis-related texture, thick and almost unctuous through the midpalate. A very rich finish although a short length. A minor success, but shouldn't we expect more from Filhot in this highly regarded vintage? I would have thought so. 16.5/20 (August 2004)

Chateau Filhot (Sauternes) 1997: From a half bottle. A pale lemon yellow. The nose has apricot and honey sweetness, but with little evidence of botrytis. On the palate, a moderately rich texture sits with a seam of drying, waxy fruit. Balanced acidity provides the antidote to all this sweetness. Not a great example of Sauternes, but pleasant drinking. 16.5/20 (January 2002)

Chateau Filhot (Sauternes) 1996: From a half bottle. A moderate golden colour. Sweet tropical fruits on the nose. No botrytis. Rich and sweet palate, plenty of tropical fruit like the nose, pineapples particularly. This is a little like passillerage in character more than botrytis. Nice texture, pleasant but lacking in impact. 13.5/20 (August 2004)

Chateau Filhot (Sauternes) 1996: From a half bottle. On first tasting this wine seemed clumsy and characterless. Once it opened up (after about 48 hours), this wine had a nose of honey, melons and fresh pineapples. A rich but not luscious texture, with fine, balancing acidity. More honey and pineapple fruit. Devoid of any botrytis related character, but a clean and refreshing style. 14/20 (March 2001)