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Chateau de Fieuzal
When one considers the lengthy history of many of the vineyards in the Graves region south of the city of Bordeaux, Chateau de Fieuzal is perhaps a little unusual when placed against its peers. Here a significant number vineyards have been in existence for many centuries, some with ancient ecclesiastical origins, and as a generalisation they predate the now more famous chateaux of the Médoc by many years. This is partly true in the case of Chateau de Fieuzal, the property having seen the passing of many centuries, and many owners too, including the Rochefoucaulds who held tenure here prior to the Revolution. The vineyard, however, is a much more recent addition, not having been established until the early 19th Century, gradually becoming the predominant agricultural activity on an estate which up until that time had been more used to forestry.
Although the vineyard proper dates from the time of Napoleon's reign, it is not until later in the century that pertinent documents begin to record the existence of the estate and its annual production, and details on who the owners were during this transformation are few and far between. In the earlier part of the century it does indeed appear to be in the possession of the Fieuzal family, the obvious source of the name, and they owned not only this estate but also the adjacent Haut-Gardère. They sold both to the Griffon family, who divided the estate, in 1851. One of the Griffon brothers was Consul to Pope Léon XIII in Bordeaux, and he used this connection to his advantage in marketing the wine, which - in the 1893 vintage at least - was reputed to have filled the Vatican's cellars. This was the year, however, that the Griffon family relinquished their hold on the estate, selling out to a gentleman by the name of Abel Ricard, who came from a family that already had considerable interests in the region, including Domaine de Chevalier and Malartic-Lagravière.
Despite Ricard's passion his tenure unfortunately encompassed almost all that could go wrong in a vineyard; as if phylloxera and oidium weren't enough, there was world war and widespread economic depression to deal with also. During his time the estate went into decline, as did so many of the region. It was not until after Abel's death during World War II that his daughter Odette and her husband Eric Bocké took control, and this change in management marked the beginning of Fieuzal's renaissance. Work began after the end of the war, when the couple returned to France from their refuge in Morocco, restoring the rundown house - there has never been a residence here that could really live up to the term chateau - and replanting the vineyard, predominantly with red varieties but also with a few rows of white. Only a few years later, in 1953, the Graves classification was drawn up, and in 1959 it was ratified; the husband and wife team had obviously succeeded in turning round the estate's fortunes, as it was ranked as a classed growth for its red wine, but not the white which was still at that time produced in miniscule quantities and was thus not submitted for assessment.
In 1973 Odette died, followed three years later by Eric, and the property was sold to Georges Négrevergne; his family ran the estate until selling it on again two decades later, the new owners being Banques Popularies. Négrevergne's son-in-law, Gérard Gribelin, remained at the helm with the backing of the new owners, and he is largely credited with much of the revitalisation of the vineyard. The land was augmented with the acquisition of the aforementioned Haut-Gardère which was incorporated into De Fieuzal, and the cellar was refurbished, with eleven stainless steel vats replacing the geriatric wooden foudres. Despite this investment, a few years later it was sold on once more, although the new owners were again from the world of banking. It was acquired by Lochlann Quinn, best known for his chairmanship of the Allied Irish Banks, although he was also director of a business school and a large electrical goods manufacturing company. He and his wife Brenda took control of the estate in 2001, and they remain in charge today.
There
are 48 hectares of vineyards lying around the chateau, 39 hectares of
red vines, 9 hectares of white, all planted on gravelly-sandy soils originating
from the Quaternary period, as is typical of the region. The red varieties
planted are predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon which accounts for 60%, with 33%
Merlot, 4.5% Cabernet Franc and 2.5% Petit Verdot, whereas the white varieties
are a rather simpler mix of Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc planted in equal
proportions. The vines are planted on the usual Bordeaux rootstocks, these being
101.14, Riparia and 3309, and have an average age of 30 years. They are trained
using a Double Guyot system, again the norm for the region, and planted at a
density of 8300 vines/ha. The vineyards are regularly ploughed with vineyard
practices largely along the lines of lutte raisonée, including some
biological techniques for pest control. The fruit, harvested by hand, is
sorted successively, with particular attention paid to the whites in this
respect, before temperature-controlled fermentation. The wines will macerate for
about four weeks before going into oak, typically for between 16 and 24 months,
and whether white or red, both wines are treated to 50% new oak every year.
There is regular batonnage for the white which remains on its lees.
Before bottling the wines are fined, usually using egg whites, and the end
products comprise the grand vin Chateau de Fieuzal and the second wine
L'Abeille de Fieuzal (total production amounting to approximately 13000 cases of red and
4000 of white per annum).
I have had a predilection for the wines of Pessac-Léognan for some time now, particularly the reds and the haunting scents of tobacco and underbrush that they can display in maturity. De Fieuzal is no exception, and my experience with vintages that are mature and maturing reveal these to be wines of real individuality and character, of quality and charm. Younger vintages have in a number of cases shown the promise that they too may, one day, reveal similar charm. As far as the whites are concerned, as with the reds, these are also occasionally captivating although as is admittedly the case with the red, it is not the very top wine of the commune. But it has very good promise in a number of vintages and I have enjoyed a number of bottles of the 1994. The 2004 and 2006 are both very good, although the 2003 is heavily marked by the vintage. Although I found more that was worthy of compliment on my most recent tasting than at my first, at the UGC tasting in 2005, this and the white wines of the Graves as a whole should be avoided in this vintage. (10/1/03, updated 7/9/07)
Contact details:
Address: Chateau Fieuzal, 33850 Léognan
Telephone: +33 (0) 5 56 64 77 86
Fax +33 (0) 5 56 64 18 88
Internet: www.fieuzal.com
Chateau de Fieuzal - Tasting Notes
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Chateau de Fieuzal Blanc (Pessac-Léognan) 2007: This wine is not as expressive as some others on the
nose, but what fruit it shows has an attractive, bright, fresh character.
It has a rather sweet ripeness, and lots of substance too, with good acids
underneath and a nice grip. Good potential here. From my 2007 Bordeaux
primeur assessment. 15.5-16.5+/20 (April 2008)
Chateau de Fieuzal (Pessac-Léognan) 2007:
There is red fruit on the nose, with a rather sweet and
confected palate. It is also a touch rubbery which I think unusual. The palate is soft and unfocussed, with a medicinal streak marking the
fruit. There is certainly individuality here, over a good texture and sweetness.
There is some substance, but there are better wines. From my 2007 Bordeaux
primeur assessment. 13-14+/20 (April 2008)
Chateau de Fieuzal Blanc (Pessac-Léognan) 2006: Bright and vibrant character, grassy fruit,
very straight and well defined. Fresh, with good substance, but perhaps not the
grip underneath I anticipated from the vigorously aromatic nose, although it
shows more firmly through the midpalate. Lots of flavour though, and a gentle
acidity. This is good. From a tasting of
2006 White Graves. 16.5-17+/20 (April 2008)
Chateau de Fieuzal Blanc (Pessac-Léognan) 2006: 70% SB, 30% Sem. A quite beautiful
nose, fresh and vibrant with grapefruit and grass notes, creamy, white pepper
and flower petals. Fairly full, quite firm, peppery, structured, a nice style
overall. Grippy and firm. Rather lithe. I like this. From my
2006 Bordeaux
assessment. 16.5-17.5/20 (April 2007)
Chateau de Fieuzal (Pessac-Léognan) 2006: Showing an unusual fruit profile at the
moment, with slightly sweaty notes alongside a creamy confected sweet fruit
reminiscent of a bar of seaside rock more than anything else. Nevertheless it
has a pleasing composition, full and plump fruit, ripe tannins nicely covered
beneath. Quite firm, with quite correct acidity too. A nice style. From my
2006 Bordeaux
assessment. 16-17+/20 (April 2007)
Chateau de Fieuzal Blanc (Pessac-Léognan) 2005:
A mineral nose, with a rich character, lemony and even somewhat reminiscent of
lemon curd. Nice, lively style. The palate has an attractive, well defined, rich
and creamy presence, with a good mineral streak like the nose. Fleshy, with some
green fruit character to cut through the Semillon richness that is also showing
a little. It has a better backbone of acidity than some. Overall, a pleasing
package. From my tasting of
2005 Bordeaux at
two years of age. 17+/20 (October 2007)
Chateau de Fieuzal (Pessac-Léognan) 2005:
There are some distinctive and rather unusual elements to the nose here, which
has a somewhat feral character, laced with the aroma of orange peel. The palate
has a soft and rounded texture, with a ripe and slightly plump style. There is
quite a lot of extract and substance beneath this, with fine charcoaly tannins,
and a good acid backbone. A surprising, rather light and lifted raspberry and
orange flavour. These characteristics are likely to change though. From my
tasting of 2005 Bordeaux
at two years of age. 16.5-17+/20 (October 2007)
Chateau de Fieuzal Blanc (Pessac-Léognan) 2004: Very stylish on the nose, rather complex too, with little notes of
caramelised fig alongside the fresh, creamed asparagus and nettle character.
Very sappy style on the palate, delightfully fresh, but with a little delicate
edge to the structure and a fine balance. An elegant, quite complete wine.
Great potential. From my
2004 Bordeaux
assessment. 17+/20 (October 2006)
Chateau de Fieuzal (Pessac-Léognan) 2004: Attractive raspberry and blackberry fruit on the
nose, with nuances of burnt oak hiding in the background. A ripe, open, rounded
style, perhaps slightly loose knit but I suspect it may come together with time.
Fleshy fruit, coating the firm tannic core very well, grippy with correct
acidity. Another good wine from this vintage. Real presence and flavour here,
through the finish. Very good indeed. From a tasting of
2004 Bordeaux. 16.5/20 (April 2007)
Chateau de Fieuzal (Pessac-Léognan) 2004:
An interesting nose here, showing some obvious, confit cherry fruit blended with
some sweet oak. Good style on the palate though, showing more typical gravelly
red fruit. Nicely proportioned tannins; this is a firm, solidly composed wine
which should be very good. From my
2004 Bordeaux
assessment. 16.5+/20 (October 2006)
Chateau de Fieuzal Blanc (Pessac-Léognan) 2003: A full, toasty, creamy, lanolin-laden nose.
Creamy and round, with a little grip and structure, but as we might expect low
acidity. There is some character though, a spicy, peppery element, and a full,
pleasing nature. Some oak tannin adding to the grip on the finish. There is much
more to comment on than when tasted at the UGC, but nothing will ever change the
inadequacy of acidity and freshness in this vintage. From a
Bordeaux tasting with
Bibendum. 13.5/20 (April 2007)
Chateau de Fieuzal Blanc (Pessac-Léognan) 2003: There is a little
honeyed oak showing on the nose here. It has better grip. At least this gives
the impression of some worthwhile flavour on the palate, but again the acidity
and freshness is nowhere to be seen. Very disappointing. Avoid. From my
2003 Bordeaux
assessment. 13/20 (October 2005)
Chateau de Fieuzal (Pessac-Léognan) 2003:
I poured my first sample at an unoccupied stand, only to find it corked. The
second showed slightly exotic nuances to blackberry fruit and a little
unresolved, buttery oak. Rather lean and under-powered on entry, and a rather
hollow midpalate, with some good primary fruit flavours but otherwise short on
character or texture. And very firm tannins too. Overall rather incongruous.
From my 2003
Bordeaux assessment. 15.5/20 (October 2005)
Chateau de Fieuzal Blanc (Pessac-Léognan) 1994: A fairly rich golden colour. It has a very mature and
secondary nose now, with notes of nuts, mushrooms, honey and perhaps just a
little volatility that I haven't noted before. Mirroring my previous
experiences, there are little notes of lime oil. On the palate it is quite firm,
still holding together well, with lots of mature nutty character. There is firm
acidity, a full, dry texture and a lot of peppery spice on the finish. This
bottle isn't showing so well as some of the others, and certainly seems to be
more tired than the last, which was barely a year ago, but it is a miniscule
point. It has a lovely style, but as a note of caution there is some heat on the finish.
On the basis of this bottle I think this is probably at peak and I would keep to five years rather than
eight. From a 1994 Bordeaux
tasting. 17/20 (April 2007)
Chateau de Fieuzal Blanc (Pessac-Léognan) 1994: I think I have always
found this wine difficult to describe, and despite previous assertions I have
had a niggling doubt about its potential for future development. This particular
bottle has a mid-golden hue, and a complex nose of honey, nutty spices, with a
lime leaf character, and a melange of mineral and caramel nuances. With a little
time it all settles down into a firm, hazelnut character. Very fresh and upright
on the palate, very firmly structured, with pervasive acidity and just a
moderate texture to balance it. Lovely hazelnut flavour though, with a biting
style, and a flourish of citrus and ripe melon richness on the finish. Decent
length. Very good indeed, with not a trace of oxidation or other flaw. Will
certainly improve further over the next 5-8 years. 17/20 (April 2006)
Chateau de Fieuzal Blanc (Pessac-Léognan) 1994: Decent colour. A good nose,
oiled wood and nutty honey, with hints of roasted chestnuts – or am I being too
festive? Lovely, slightly oily mouthfeel, firm structure, grippy with good
acidity. Has fullness and weight. A little coffee and roasted nut kernel. Good,
but should improve further over the next 5-10 years. A
Christmas Wine. 16+/20 (December 2004)
Chateau de Fieuzal Blanc (Pessac-Léognan) 1994:
A lovely pale golden hue. Very appealing on the nose, which has ripe pears,
stone fruit and minerals, with a rounded, mealy smoky edge. Delicious weight on
the palate, lean and elegant yet mouthfilling, good acidity, delightfully
balanced. Citrus fruits with a hint of the tropics. Wonderful concentration on
the lingering finish. Plenty of potential here for development in bottle. 17/20 (January 2003)
Label
Chateau de Fieuzal (Pessac-Léognan) 1990: Very deep colour here with
little sign of significant age. Intensely perfumed, minerals and smoke, flower
petals and meat. Brilliant, classic style. Full, powerful palate. Sweet edged
fruit, ripe tannins giving a firm structure, especially in the finish. Plenty of
spice. Delicious wine with potential. Drink over the next ten years. From a
Graves tasting. 18+/20 (October 2004)
Chateau de Fieuzal (Pessac-Léognan) 1985: Deep, dark colour although
paling at the rim. Mature fruit, elegant, rich dark and spicy. A bit of green
pepper and five spice here. Full, rich, dark and earthy palate. Good firm
acidity, a little drying tannin just in the finish. A deep wealth of mature
fruit. More of the Oriental spices found on the nose. Lovely. From a
Graves tasting. 17/20 (October 2004)
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