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Chateau Ferrière

Chateau Ferrière is remarkable for several reasons. Firstly it is, in comparison with the rest of the Médoc, the tiniest estate of all on the left bank and, secondly, from the middle of the 18th century up until the late 20th century, there were just two families holding tenure at Ferrière. This was a remarkable consistency, considering this time includes the ravages of phylloxera, economic depression and two world wars, hard times when many chateaux changed hands several times over. Ferrière was not immune, however, and during the last century there was a long period of underinvestment and the quality of the wines was questionable.

The Ferrière family, from whom the chateau takes its name, are the first of these two families. Gabriel Ferrière, a royal courtier, was in charge until his demise in 1777 when he left the property to a cousin, confusingly also called Gabriel Ferrière. He and his brother Jean both held positions of responsibility in local government, and so unsurprisingly found themselves on the wrong side of a jail cell during the Revolution, just a decade or so later. By 1795, however, Jean had not only been released but found himself Mayor of Bordeaux, an impressive turnaround. The family managed to retain possession of the chateau and vineyards, which were ranked as either third or fourth growth in the various classifications of the early 19th century. In the 1855 classification, which has persisted more than any other, this position as a third growth was fully cemented.

In 1914 the Ferrière era came to and end with Henri Ferrière; at this time the estate was purchased by Armand Feuillerat, who also owned Marquis de Terme, a nearby Margaux property, having inherited it from his father, Jean Feuillerat. He gifted the Ferrière estate to his daughter, André Durand, who held control here for much of the 20th century. Her tenure was not characterised by investment or development, however, and in the latter years the vineyards were leased to Alexis Lichine who already owned Chateau Prieuré-Lichine and, with the backing of his American syndicate of investors, Chateau Lascombes. From that point onwards Lichine and his team looked after the Ferrière vineyards, and the wines were made in the chai at Lascombes. Around this time the vineyards were completely replanted, and in total covered just 4.5 hectares, a tiny area; almost the entire output, which obviously was not huge, was sold to a restaurant chain, and the Ferrière label was not commonly encountered for sale beyond France's borders.

In the latter stages of the 20th century, however, both Lascombes and Ferrière found new owners, and it was almost inevitable that the arrangement between the two would come to an end. Chateau Ferrière was purchased by the Taillan Group, a consortium led by Jacques Merlaut, a successful wine merchant who also owns Gruaud-Larose, Chasse-Spleen, Citran, La Gurgue and Haut-Bages-Liberal. It was Jacques Merlaut's daughter, Bernadette Villars, who assumed responsibility for Ferrière, and by 1992 their newly acquired property was fully independent from Lascombes. This success, however, was marred by tragedy, as Bernadette and her husband were both killed in an accident when hiking in the Pyrenees. It was the next generation, in the form of Claire Villars, that stepped up to the plate; today Claire runs the family properties, including Ferrière, with aplomb, a revitalising force that serves as a fitting testament to her mother, who learnt her skills with Professor Emile Peynaud, and was a respected winemaker in her own right.

The Ferrière vineyards are very small, a few dots on a map which could be easily overlooked. Now standing at just 8 ha this is the Médoc's smallest Cru Classé chateau (there have been others smaller, including Dubignon, although this was absorbed into the vineyards of Malescot St Exupéry, and Alesme-Becker, which through new vineyard acquisitions has expanded beyond the size of Ferrière). Some of the vineyards are located very close indeed to the village of Margaux, unsurprisingly just around the corner from Chateau Lascombes. The soils comprise deep swathes of very typical Garonne gravel, over a chalk marl, and they are planted with 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot and 5% Petit Verdot, the major change over the last few decades being an increasing area given over to Cabernet. The average vine age is 35 years. The wines are now made and bottled at the chateau, using temperature-controlled equipment, a twenty-day maceration, up to eighteen months in oak (60% new per annum) and an egg white fining. The grand vin is Chateau Ferrière, the second wine Les Remparts de Ferrière, the total output being about 4000 cases each vintage.

To say the quality of Ferrière has improved in recent years would be nothing short of a gross understatement; under Claire Villar's direction, the standard of the wines has improved dramatically. Tasting recent vintages, they demonstrate a remarkable consistency, with so-called 'lesser' vintages matching closely the sort of quality attained in 2000, 2003 and 2005. Ferrière would appear to have undergone a metamorphosis; from a lacklustre wine found almost exclusively on French wine lists, to a real performer, all in the space of a few decades. I see no reason why, with the continued guidance of Claire Villars, this trend should not continue. (5/9/06)

Contact details:
Address: Chateau Ferrière, 33460 Margaux
Telephone: +33 (0) 5 56 58 02 37
Fax +33 (0) 5 57 88 37 87
Internet: www.ferriere.com

Chateau Ferrière - Tasting Notes

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Chateau Ferrière (Margaux) 2009: Cabernet Sauvignon 58%, Merlot 40%, Cabernet Franc 2%. A dark hue with a crimson rim, and the aromas of sweet damson jam on the nose. Rather a bold substance on the palate, some good appeal here, although with rather juicy fruit. With its moderate acidity it has a good feel overall but it does show some alcohol in the finish. For that reason I have reigned in my score. From my 2009 Bordeaux primeur assessment. 15-16+/20 (March 2010)

Chateau Ferrière (Margaux) 2008: Not very expressive on the nose, although what it does show has a good black cherry and cream character. The palate has fine substance, with a slightly leaner midpalate, stony fruit and light tannic structure. Firm acids. This lacks a little weight, and yet has a slightly chewy element to it. It needs to put on some fat in barrel, and could be good if it does so. From my 2008 Bordeaux primeur assessment. 15.5-16.5+/20 (April 2009)

Chateau Ferrière (Margaux) 2007: Gentle spice here, supple with quiet black fruit notes. A parallel style on the palate, with some mild polish and gentle fruit. A dark character behind it all, with gentle, well hidden tannins. A nice and supple character which means this wine will drink well young I think. From a tasting of 2007 Bordeaux at two years of age. 15+/20 (October 2009)

Chateau Ferrière (Margaux) 2007: An attractive, open, gentle but lifted character on the nose. It is not overly expressive. Soft and supple on the palate, with gentle tannins and a firm acidity. There is an appealing grip, and more extract becoming apparent at the finish. It is a little drying here. But there is a little length. From my 2007 Bordeaux en primeur assessment. 14.5-15.5+/20 (April 2008)

Chateau Ferrière (Margaux) 2006: Fresh and bright, with summer berry fruits here, presented in a clean and attractive fashion. Rather soft and low impact on entry, elegant and supple. It has fairly firm tannins evident in the midpalate, but there is a quite harmonious feel to it otherwise. Good. From a tasting of 2006 Bordeaux at two years of age. 15.5+/20 (October 2008)

Chateau Ferrière (Margaux) 2006: Quite open an evocative, deep fruit, nutty, lots of style here. Nicely rounded character, soft and plump, with a decent peppery acidity. A ripe grip too. This is deeper and more interesting than many wines here today. Good style, and another success for Clare Villars. From my 2006 Bordeaux assessment. 16-17/20 (April 2007)

Chateau Ferrière (Margaux) 2005: A vibrant hue, moderately dense, with a shocking pink-purple rim. Appealing on the nose, showing some concentrated, nutty black fruits, with nuances of blackberry crumble. Elegant entry, rather restrained midpalate, showing a lovely character. Lots of floral Margaux character here, and a fine acid structure. This has plenty of potential. The only downside is a leanness through the midpalate, although this may gain weight en barrique. From my Bordeaux 2005 en primeur tasting. 16.5-17.5/20 (April 2006)

Chateau Ferrière (Margaux) 2004: Really very closed on the nose, and it seems the same on the palate today. The texture is middleweight, and there is a gentle substance to it. It has a rather firm but nice tannic backbone, a middling texture, and good substance on the finish. This is possibly a very good wine, but it is so tight and ungiving today that I have given a broad and non-specific range based on today's showing. Reviewing my notes from two years ago, when the wine was much more open, I see I rated it a little higher than the top of my range today. From a 2004 Bordeaux tasting at four years of age. 16-17+/20 (November 2008)

Chateau Ferrière (Margaux) 2004: An elegant nose, with gently perfumed fruit and a little oak. Good style on the palate, supple structure, perfume and mineral character in a rather elegant style, nicely defined by correct acidity. Ripe and supple tannins. My palate prefers this to the 2003 vintage, but which ever way you look at it its another success for Claire Villars. Very good, excellent potential. From my 2004 Bordeaux assessment. 17.5+/20 (October 2006)

Chateau Ferrière (Margaux) 2004: Another dark and appealing wine here. A delightful nose, full of sweet blackcurrant fruit, somewhat brooding in nature. A middleweight palate, with an elegantly reserved texture doing little to cover a firm tannic structure and quite correct acidity at present. It certainly has an appealing grip on the midpalate and finish. Nice length. This has good potential 16.5+/20 (April 2006)

Chateau Ferrière (Margaux) 2003: A really lifted nose here, showing fresh blackcurrant and blackberry fruit. How refreshing. Lovely ripe texture on entry, with beautiful style. The tannins are completely in keeping with the fruit and acidity. Ripe and supple presence, really crisp style with freshness, not seen that often in this vintage. Ferrière goes from strength to strength; another success for Clare Villars. From my 2003 Bordeaux assessment. 17/20 (October 2005)

Chateau Ferrière (Margaux) 2001: Showing a little early fade to the colour. The nose is also quite evolved, showing classic iron and blood character, with some brooding, mineral, typically floral black fruits. Quite an elegant palate, nicely balanced, with some mature flavours just starting to peek in. Still a good tannic backbone, and a very upright acid presence. Will be drinking nicely within a few years. 16.5+/20 (April 2006)

Chateau Ferrière (Margaux) 2000: From a half bottle. A powerful, youthful colour which characterises this vintage at the moment. Toffee, coffee and butterscotch, all oak-derived. Full, concentrated, creamy, seamless feel, with structure beneath. Fabulous quality here. Amazingly drinkable now from this format, but will benefit from 15 years in the cellar. 17+/20 (January 2005)

Chateau Ferrière (Margaux) 1998: From a half bottle. Glossy. Very early maturity at the rim. Toffee and smoke, with some berry fruit. Full, balanced, weighty, tannic. Youthful and firm, classic left bank '98. Good fruit, Creamy tannins, lovely potential although surprisingly approachable now from this format. 16+/20 (January 2005)