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Chateau Citran

For many years Chateau Citran has been one of those Bordeaux properties I persistently ignored; its reputation as a source of dry and dusty, charmless wines, the sort of bottle that would send drinkers away from Bordeaux in droves in a search for wines containing an iota of fruit. Bordeaux, however, is a playing field on which a substitution can make a world of difference; chateaux and their vineyards change hands, and new owners bring new enthusiasm, investment and commitment. And better wines, of course. So it is with Citran.

The property dates back at least to the High Middle Ages, it originally being an ancient seigneurie, the seat of the Marquis de Donnissan. During the 13th Century the family constructed a fortress on the property, although this has long since been replaced by a much more modern chateau which dates from the 18th Century, and only the defensive ditches of the original building remain. Remarkably the estate remained with this family until 1832, when it was purchased by the Clauzel family. The ensuing years seem to be a period decimation, as the extensive vineyard of ninety hectares rapidly contracted to a mere four. An extrapolation of this process suggests that the vines may have soon disappeared altogether, but in 1945 this was prevented when Citran was purchased by the Miailhe brothers.

The Miailhe family, originally from Portets, some distance south of Bordeaux, were brokers and négociants. The father, Frédéric, was predominantly a broker and his sons, Edouard and Louis, followed in his footsteps. During the 1920s, however, the brothers branched out with the purchase of several properties, starting with Louis and his new acquisitions, Chateau Coufran and then Verdignan. The two brothers then joined forces to purchase Chateau Citran, and the family held onto it for several decades, during which time Citran passed onto Louis's daughter, and it was she that sold it onto the Japanese Société Touko Haus in 1987. At last Citran saw committed investment and concerted effort, although there was not the turn-around one might have expected; that does not appear to have materialised until Groupe Taillan, led by Jacques Merlaut, took possession of the property in 1997. The Merlaut-Villars family now own a host of properties in the region, including Ferrière, Gruaud-Larose, Chasse-Spleen, La Gurgue and Haut-Bages-Liberal. Claire Villars is responsible for winemaking at many of them, but here at Chateau Citran it is Céline Villars that holds the reins.

The estate itself is located in Avensan, to the west of the Margaux vineyards and covers 410 hectares, at the centre of which lies the 18th Century chateau. There are two vineyard plots, both entitled to the Haut-Médoc appellation, totalling 90 hectares, one adjacent to the chateau, one nearer Avensan. The terroir is typically gravelly, with some sand, marl and chalky clay, and the vines show a slight predominance of Cabernet Sauvignon (58%), the balance all Merlot, with an average of 25 years. Plans to deforest some adjacent high land indicate that there is an ongoing program of planting up, with the focus on more Cabernet. The vineyards are ploughed between the rows, and the harvest is naturally manual. Fermentation is in stainless steel, with temperature control, with a three week cuvaison, and then one year in barrels of which 40% are replaced each vintage. The wines are subsequently fined using egg white prior to bottling, the grand vin being Chateau Citran, 25000 cases per annum, the second wine Moulins de Citran, 16000 cases per annum.

And the wines? As I said in my introduction, this is a new and revitalised Chateau Citran, and the wines are worthy of the attention of anyone who desires well made wines true to the region, and easily match the quality of wines from other leading Cru Bourgeois estates such as Potensac and Poujeaux, and may even outstrip them with time. I would not be surprised at promotion for Citran in the event of a revised Cru Bourgeois classification if the wines I have tasted recently are truly representative. (21/12/06)

Contact details:
Address: Chateau Citran, 33480 Avensan
Telephone: +33 (0) 5 56 58 21 01
Fax +33 (0) 5 56 88 84 60
Internet: www.citran.com

Chateau Citran - Tasting Notes

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Chateau Citran (Haut-Médoc) 2008: Not very expressive, with just some dense and nutty fruit. A nice weight on the palate, substantial in terms of body, with firm fruit backed up by firm tannins. There is even a touch of cream here. But overall, a bit forceful, and rather strongly extracted. From my 2008 Bordeaux primeur assessment. 15-16+/20 (April 2009)

Chateau Citran (Haut-Médoc) 2006: This has a rather inexpressive nose, with some slightly brawny fruit. The wine is soft and diffuse at the beginning, although with a broad and ripe palate. It has a fair amount of grip, good avidity, but seems to lack vivacity in the mouth. It seems all very detached and distant. It may come together with time. From a tasting of 2006 Bordeaux at two years of age. 14.5+/20 (October 2008)

Chateau Citran (Haut-Médoc) 2005: This has some exuberant fruit on the nose, lively and interesting fruit, with a touch of oak. The style is rich, soft and open, broad, and is perhaps lacking focus a little. There is good firm acidity and grippy tannins, but it isn't showing the aromatic character to match the structure that I would have hoped for. Again, though, these criticisms are minor points within the context of the vintage and this is certainly good wine. From my tasting of 2005 Bordeaux at two years of age. 16.5+/20 (October 2007)

Chateau Citran (Haut-Médoc) 2004: The nose here is interesting; I recall being wowed by the 2000 and 2005 in particular, but this seems quite different in style. It has pepper on the nose, with a green, vegetal streak. Rather lean on the palate, an oily edge, with some feral fruit. Ripe and slightly chewy tannins. This might develop more interest with time, or at least we can hope so. From a 2004 Bordeaux tasting at four years of age. 14+?/20 (November 2008)

Chateau Citran (Haut-Médoc) 2003: Following on from the 2000, this has a really open and exotic nose, with seductive aromas of dark, chewy, confit bramble fruit laced with liquorice. The palate is nicely poised, with attractive texture, and an appealing although atypical layer of confit fruit matching that on the nose. This has a lovely style through the midpalate, with real depth and interest, but then in rides a brutal wall of tannin of absolutely humungous proportions. Looking past these, this is a success, but will they ever resolve successfully to give a balanced wine? 15.5+/20 (November 2006)

Chateau Citran (Haut-Médoc) 2000: A pure, rather elegant, dark fruit nose, which shows some real class, presenting an evocative and perhaps even seductive character. The palate, however, is firm and stylish, medium bodied with ripe flavours, but with a fine texture. This has a lovely, nicely poised style, with a backbone of grippy tannins. Excellent potential here. 17+/20 (November 2006)