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Chateau Bastor-Lamontagne

There are few Barsac and Sauternes estates lying outside the two tiers (three if you include Yquem's exalted position at the summit) of the 1855 classification which receive much attention, if indeed any. One of the few that undoubtedly does is Bastor-Lamontagne, an estate with which I have been familiar since tasting the fresh, blood-orange tones of the 1986 vintage. Since then have on occasion noticed this fresh, flavoursome, citrus fruit trait in a number of other vintages, not least the 2003 and 2004. Classified or not, this is a property with which we should at least be familiar.

The Bastor-Lamontagne story begins, as far as we are concerned, in the early 18th Century, when it was in the possession of the French crown. In 1711 the Bastore estate, as it appears to have been called, was bestowed upon a Bordeaux parliamentarian named Vincent de la Montaigne. On maps drawn up later that century by Belleyme the estate is shown to have a vineyard, strongly suggesting that there was already active viticulture here at the time, although this is likely to have been just one of many crops that were planted. It was not until 1839 and the arrival of the Amédée Larrieu, who also owned Chateau Haut-Brion, that viticulture began to dominate. And so it remained through to 1936, when Viscount de Larochebrochard, a descendent of the Larrieu family, decided to relinquish his hold on the property. It was acquired by Foncier-Vignobles, who still hold tenure today.

The vineyard of Bastor-Lamontagne covers 56 hectares (including a single 52 hectare block) in Preignac, one of the five communes entitled to the Sauternes appellation. The soils are rich in sand and gravel, with limestone beneath. The vines are 80% Semillon, 17% Sauvignon Blanc and 3% Muscadelle, and have an average age exceeding 35 years. The fruit is harvested by hand, undergoes pneumatic pressing, and the fermentation is typically in steel for the Sauvignon Blanc and in oak for the Semillon. The wine then goes into oak for about 16 months, with only a small proportion of new barrels, typically accounting for 20-30% of the total. The grand vin is Chateau Bastor-Lamontagne, of which there may be as many as 7000 cases per annum, and there is a second wine named Les Remparts de Bastor. In addition there is a special cuvée - Caprice de Bastor-Lamontagne - apparently aimed at drinkers unfamiliar with the 'over-rich and over-complex' Sauternes. It is a blend of equal parts Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc, there are less than 2000 cases per annum, and it seems to be intended for drinking young.

As for the wines themselves, I have found them to be solid, fresh rather than rich or luscious, and fairly dependable provided this is the sort of style that appeals to you. Other vintages tasted since the 1986 have all matched this description, although the 2007 displayed a step up in quality which was impressive for the property, and it may be that other very successful vintages for the region where I have not had the opportunity to assess Bastor-Lamontagne, such as 2001, have produced a similarly good result. On the whole though, these wines should appeal to those who crave a less rich style of Sauternes with some good acidity, and they have the added bonus of being good value too. (8/5/08)

Contact details:
Address: Chateau Bastor-Lamontagne, 33210 Preignac
Telephone: +33 (0) 5 56 63 27 66
Fax +33 (0) 5 56 76 87 03
IInternet: www.bastor-lamontagne.com

Chateau Bastor-Lamontagne - Tasting Notes

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Chateau Bastor-Lamontagne (Sauternes) 2007: A delightful nose here, full of blood oranges and lychee and grapefruit, with a fresh and bright style. Vigorous and appealing on the palate, rather solid in style, with gently crisp flavours. Honeyed finish, with flourishes of pastry and baklawa too. This is impressive for Bastor. From my tasting of 2007 Sauternes at two years of age. 16.5+/20 (October 2009)

Chateau Bastor-Lamontagne (Sauternes) 2007: An attractive nose of crystalline oranges and pineapples, in a light and fresh style. Lovely flesh, supple but grippy beneath. Nice substance through the midpalate, and a firm and peppery structure here. A good sweet finish. Very attractive and plenty of interest. Impressive for Bastor-Lamontagne. From my 2007 Bordeaux en primeur assessment. 16-17+/20 (April 2008)

Chateau Bastor-Lamontagne (Sauternes) 2006: Lemons, oranges, blood oranges and more here. The palate is light and fresh, with plenty of lifting acidity. It has a sweet twist, but has a clean, light character with a slightly sour feel to it. It will appeal to fans of Bastor I think, which usually produces a lighter and zippy style, but it lacks the sweetness to balance the fresh, citrussy acidity for my palate. From my tasting of 2006 Sauternes at two years of age. 14+/20 (October 2008)

Chateau Bastor-Lamontagne (Sauternes) 2005: Lovely aromatics on the nose here, much more lifted and perfumed than the 2003, showing soft, white fruits and a fresh minerality. Light, bright and vivacious on the palate, and perhaps there is not the depth and texture that you might hope for. A nice, clean style, with decent acidity, but it lacks impact. It needs time to show its best. 15+/20 (February 2008)

Chateau Bastor-Lamontagne (Sauternes) 2005: Lightness and freshness here, as is typical of Bastor I think. The palate has a lovely, cleansing style, with light pineapple and apple fruit to the fore, with spice and pepper bringing up the rear. Good midpalate texture, although it fades away a little thereafter. Good fruit though. From my tasting of 2005 Bordeaux at two years of age. 15.5-16/20 (October 2007)

Chateau Bastor-Lamontagne (Sauternes) 2004: Blood oranges, something I seem to find in every vintage of Bastor! Rather lifted and certainly fresh on the nose. Light in style on the palate though, fresh and lean, crisp acidity, peppery. Firmly styled, no seductive fat here. Merely good. From my 2004 Bordeaux assessment. 15/20 (October 2006)

Chateau Bastor-Lamontagne (Sauternes) 2003: A golden hue, with just a tinge of green, and a gently sweet nose with notes of honey and nice botrytis. Fresh, it has a delicately plump texture, with quince flavour and a touch of oranges, and there is certainly an attractive sweetness. There is some appeal here, in texture at least. A decent wine. 15.5/20 (February 2008)

Chateau Bastor-Lamontagne (Sauternes) 2003: A pale golden wine, with a nose of honey, vanilla and lanolin. It is plump, creamy, rich and resinous, although it lightens up somewhat through the midpalate. Not as much flavour here as the texture demands, and lower acidity than is often the case with Bastor. There isn't the usual definition I expect. Good though. From the 2007 CIVB tasting. 15.5/20 (October 2007)

Chateau Bastor-Lamontagne (Sauternes) 2003: AA fresh, blood-orange nose. A clean, fresh, lighter wine, but with some decent botrytis character. Quite floral, still showing some oak. Crisp style, as refreshing and pure as morning dew. Good. Although it doesn't have the weight or impact one might look for in this vintage, but in my experience this is the Bastor-Lamontagne style. From my 2003 Bordeaux assessment. 16/20 (October 2005)

Chateau Bastor-Lamontagne (Sauternes) 1999: A second vintage of this wine. This has a mid-golden hue. It is very fresh on the nose, with attractive lightly honey-coated fruits. On the palate it is typical Bastor, with a lighter style than some others, fresh and delicate rather than opulent, but nicely lifted by an incisive blood orange acidity. This is very true to style for Bastor, which often seems to show this firm body of acids I think. Good. From the 2007 CIVB tasting. 15.5+/20 (October 2007)

Chateau Bastor-Lamontagne (Sauternes) 1986: Moderately deep yellow gold colour. On the nose, an appealing streak of honey, and aromas of fresh, juicy oranges. Medium-bodied at best, although the overall texture is creamy and quite pleasing. It's cut through by fairly aggressive acidity, Sharp, bitter orange flavours dominate. Coped well with a home-made plum crumble. 15.5/20 (April 2002)

Chateau Bastor-Lamontagne (Sauternes) 1986: This rich golden-amber wine had a pleasant apricot and botrytis nose, with a palate of blood oranges and tangerines, lemons and honey. Somewhat sharp acidity and moderate weight lead into a clean finish with an attractive length. Good rather than excellent, but a pleasing match with some sweet Mediterranean pastries. 15.5/20 (January 2001)