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Domaine Chandon de Briailles, 2010 Vintage

Despite my continued hankerings Burgundy remains a niche interest on Winedoctor. I think it is a region you have to know really well in order to make any informed comment of interest to knowledgeable Burgundy drinkers. For that reason (it’s not just that I’m short of time – although that’s true as well) it is a region I touch upon when the opportunity presents itself, rather than me chasing the experience.

These two wines are one such opportunity. The domaine is one I am reasonably familiar with (my way of saying I have a few bottles in the cellar). Now in the hands of Comte and Comtesse Aymard-Claude de Nicolay, the domaine is I think a good source of wines away from the top tier appellations, with a portfolio that is centred on and around Corton, including Savigny and Pernand-Vergelesses.

These two wines are barrel samples from the 2010 vintage. I have thus marked with ranged scores. I have also included prices for cases, in bond, from stockist Bancroft Wines.

Chandon de Briailles Savigny-les-Beaune Premier Cru Les Lavières 2010: A good depth of colour here. And a characterful nose, with a good intensity to the fruit, vibrant but rich, with the depth of dark cherry but with the brightness of loganberry, and a twist of grey smoke. It has a rather granular depth to it, and overall it seems to have promise. This comes across as a confident character on the palate, with full fruit but also a crunchy definition, and the grip of good structure. A very convincing palate, broad and with appealing flesh. Overall, very good. 15-16/20 (May 2012) (£235 per case, in bond)

Chandon de Briailles Pernand-Vergelesses Premier Cru Île des Vergelesses 2010: Dark cherry fruit here, showing a good intensity of aroma with savoury elements to it redolent of mushroom and truffle, but there is an appealing freshness and vibrancy to it as well. Less granular than the Savigny tasted alongside, a more integrated, admittedly chocolate-tinged polish here. Full, rich, but with a more silky tone to the structure and overall composition which I like. This is certainly no delicate lightweight though, as there is substance and potential here beneath the flavour and definition. Good potential here. 15.5-16.5/20 (May 2012) (£265 per case, in bond)

7 Responses to “Domaine Chandon de Briailles, 2010 Vintage”

  1. Hi Chris, I’ve been a silent reader for a while and enjoy what you write. I’m only replying this time because I happened to open a magnum of Savigny Les Lavieres 2005 from this producer this weekend for special guests . To say we were disappointed is an understatement. Don’t think I’ve ever had such dross – sour, green, thin, yuck! Gave up on it and had some delicious Senechaux 2006 CdP instead. The magnum was a gift so can’t take it back although I’m pretty sure I know which merchant it came from. Was this a duff year or duff producer?

  2. Hi Harry, thanks for your message.

    First up, a disclaimer. I’m more knowledgeable on Bordeaux and the Loire than Burgundy, and I would be delighted if a Burgophile dropped in to comment, but I’ll tell you what I know at least.

    The vintage wasn’t duff, not by a long shot. It was well written up. Can’t say I’ve tasted extensively myself but on the whole it seemed to have been on the receiving end of some very positive reviews. So 2005 not a vintage to be avoided.

    As for the domaine, I’ve long thought of Chandon de Briailles as a good source of wine, perhaps more at the value and worthy end than the absolute highest quality, but good all the same.

    Notes on this wine on Celler Tracker describe a fresh, red-fruited wine with acidity. Nothing green, but maybe it is that leaner style of fruit that you didn’t like? A few wines from the vintage, although it was generally good, have been described as having higher acidity and lean-ish midpalates, so maybe you caught one of those?

  3. Thank you Chris. I went back to it tonight. Most generic burgundy is better than this particular bottle, let alone 1er cru. I’ve stored it well. No idea what went wrong. Ah well. I’ll try and add a comment on something nice next time. Thanks again. Now that Suduiraut 03 we had later on was a different kettle of fish … Regards

  4. Harry,

    Sounds to me like you might have caught this wine in a ‘shut down’ phase. This wine should have been full of fruit and depth on release and would probably be best after 10/15 years (especially in magnum) at which time it should have good complexity, texture and be miles away from ‘sour, green & thin’. Most burgundies are great on release for about 2/3 years and then shut down for 5 years or so before opening up in a much more mature phase after this (Of course this varies greatly depending on village / vintage / producer / appelation etc..).

    Another possibility here is that your palate is more attuned to a fuller, fruitier style of wine. I wouldn’t expect any comparison between a Savigny Les Beaune & a CdP but then again, you probably wouldn’t expect this either?

    Cheers,
    Will

  5. Interesting thanks. yes, I prefer fruity but this would have had a very long way to go to open up. Too late this time – the rest of it went in the bolognaise tonight. Good bol, though.

  6. There is great bottle variation from this domaine, thanks to almost “natural” winemaking. I’ve also had a very strange 05 Corton Bressandes from them. Sour and browning but not oxidised. But I have also had good bottles. In any case they have a dark, acidic, tannic and old school style that is not for everyone. Not for me anyway.

  7. Will, thanks for those comments, very useful and much appreciated.

    Thanks to Frank also. Interesting to hear of the bottle variation you have experienced.