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Annual Review 2005

My first action upon starting to review the wines and events of 2005 was to look back at my review of 2004; what a great year that was for wine! Will my trawl through the wines of 2005 yield so many great vinous moments? As was the case with 2004, I wasn't sure. With my move to Edinburgh this year, I have lost touch with the incomparable Chester Claret Club, where many great tastings were held; the last few I attended included vertical tastings of Chateau Clerc Milon, Chateau d'Armailhac, Chateau Lagrange and Chateau Malescot St-Exupéry, and a fine horizontal tasting of 1983 Bordeaux. Such tastings are already sorely missed. And, unlike 2004 and 2003, I enjoyed no trip to the Loire this year, also a consequence of my relocation. My expectations were lessened...last year's notes were full of Baumard, Aubuisières, Champalou and the like. But I did make it down to Bandol this year, and also to Tuscany (notes yet to be written up I'm afraid) so perhaps there is hope.

As always, although my review features some great and illustrious names, it isn't a self-congratulatory pat-on-the-back exercise. Rather, it's a reflection of how much more I have learnt yet again this year, and hopefully features wines that really meant something to me, or taught me something, as much as those that were intrinsically spectacular. (29/12/05)

Winedoctor Wines of the Year

White: Marcel Deiss Schoenenberg Grand Cru 1997

A strong field of contenders this year, from a wide variety of regions, unlike 2004 when this category was dominated by the wines of the Loire. France's greatest river is still represented, by a number of whites, from favourite producers, tasted in my summertime Loire Extravaganza, but there were so many others vying for attention. My weekly feature always throws up fabulous new wines, and The Beautiful South, which continued throughout much of 2005, was no exception. Worthwhile new experiences were, from Roussillon, the Domaine Sarda-Malet Côtes du Roussillon 'Terroirs Maillioles' Blanc 2000 and, later in the year, the delightful Domaine Cauhape Jurançon Sec Chant des Vignes 2003. Both wines demonstrated the concentration, balance and precision of a grand vin, and proved to me once again that there are some truly great wines outside of France's classic regions.

Sticking with a wine producing region more famed for its white wines, Germany made a strong showing, with wines mature and youthful. The JJ Prüm Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spätlese 2003 and Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese 2002, and the Karthäuserhof Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg Riesling Auslese 1990 all reminded me that I should buy more of these wines for my cellar.

None, however, surpassed the breathtaking character of the Deiss wine. A committed biodynamic winemaker, who I would rank among France's greatest, Deiss turns out a dazzling array of wines. In a small tasting of his wines earlier this year, this Grand Cru was truly stunning. I shall be looking out for more of his wines in the future, finances allowing; these are not the most inexpensive wines to be found in Alsace.

Rosé: Chateau de Pibarnon Rosé 2004

Huh? Rosé? Alright, not a category I have included before, and not necessarily one I will include again. But one of the vinous experiences of my sojourn in Bandol, earlier this year, was this, one of the greatest (if not the greatest) rosés I have ever tasted, and it deserves a mention in my reflections. A rosé I actually wanted to drink (that's rare), and once purchased I duly did so. Just superior to Tempier's effort for the same vintage, and still available off the shelf in the UK...thoughts of summer, anyone?

Red: Chateau Cheval Blanc 1998

A devilish category to judge, because there are so many contenders, wines both intrinsically fine, and those memorable for other reasons. After giving the nod to a mature wine last year, this year a young wine; tasted for the second year in succession, Cheval Blanc 1998 was truly stunning, and I rate 2000 almost as highly. Other memorable wines include:

The Underdogs: from the Loire Valley, as featured in my new Reds of the Loire feature. These wines show the merits of this wonderful, oft forgotten wine region, and include the magnificent Couly-Dutheil Clos de l'Echo Crescendo 2003, the Charles Joguet Chinon Clos de la Dioterie 2003 and Chene Vert 2003, the latter two tasted with Alain Delauney this summer, and the brooding Baudry Chinon La Croix Boisée 2003.
The Elegantly Mature: wines that reminded me how important it is to allow a cellar to develop into maturity, such as Chateau Pichon-Lalande 1983, the top wine in a 1983 line-up, Chateau Lagrange 1988, which surpassed expectations, Chateau Clerc Milon 1990 (and the rather less mature 2000), and a fabulous trio of vintages from Chateau Malescot St-Exupéry, the 1982, 1988 and 1990, all showing brilliantly in a mini-vertical.
The New Kids on the Block: great wines from producers new to me, including Ornellaia 2001 (among many fine wines from this estate), and Domaine Gauby Côtes du Roussillon Villages 'Muntada' 1998.
The Overtly Educational: wines, great and small, that taught me something. The fine Chateau de la Rouvière Bandol 2001 - a reminder that there's plenty to learn from visiting the vineyards, and to always have an open mind when treading fresh ground. Two Coudoulets, 2000 and 2001 - a reminder to trust my own palate; the 2001 is a fine wine very much in the Beaucastel mould, and I fail to understand criticism of it; even in its youth it seems eminently drinkable. And the Cullen Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 1997 - a reminder that once in a while I should look beyond Europe's shores...this wine was truly stunning, and I'm glad I have more, and other vintages, in the cellar. The 1996, which I drink as I write this, is on a par.

Fizz: Dom Ruinart 1990

Thank heavens for Christmas fizz. This was drank on Christmas Eve, note not yet published, but it is I think top fizz of the year. Perhaps the setting had a little to do with it, but that only makes its case stronger, not weaker, in my opinion. Runners up include an assembly of 1996 Champagnes including Pol Roger Brut 1996, Perrier Jouët Belle Epoque 1996 and Gosset Grande Millésime 1996. This is clearly a fine vintage for Champagne which I will continue to purchase.

Dessert: Domaine Cauhape Jurançon Quintessence du Petit Manseng 1999

Henri Ramonteau of Domaine Cauhape An almost impossible task, with many fine wines, both old friends and new, to choose from. But I settled on this wine; when it literally took my breath away, with just a quick nose of the bouquet, then I knew I had something truly magnificent on my hands; it was Cauhape's Quintessence.

This wasn't the only stunner from the South-West, as the Charles Hours Jurançon Uroulat 2002 was also marvellous. Both of the above were new to me, and I have purchased more from Cauhape from the cellar, and may well do the same with Clos Uroulat. Other new and memorable experiences included:

Sauternes 2003: superlative wines, with Chateau Suduiraut 2003 and Chateau Lafaurie Peyraguey 2003 leading the pack in the selection I tasted. This is yet another great vintage for Sauternes. Older wines not previously tasted included Chateau Guiraud Sauternes 1989, from a Lay and Wheeler tasting of all places!
Germans and Austrians: wines both old and young; a fabulous aged Heyl zu Herrnsheim Rehbach Riesling Beerenauslese 1976, and two much younger wines, a Horst Sauer Eschendorfer Lump Riesling Beerenauslese 2002 and Bründlmayer Grüner Veltliner Loiser Berg Trockenbeerenauslese 2000.
From my Beautiful South feature: Chateau Revelette 'Or Serie' 1999, which showed that its not just the South-West that can turn out excellent sweet wines, but that Provence can too.

Old friends from the Loire that impressed yet again, and cannot go unmentioned, include Domaine des Aubuisières Vouvray Cuvée Alexandre Moelleux 2003 (very nearly my top wine in fact), Chateau Bellerive Quarts de Chaume Quintessence 1997 (simply divine), Champalou Vouvray Cuvée Mouelleuse 2002 and, dripping with potential, the Domaine des Baumard Quarts de Chaume 2001.

Fortified: Domaine du Mas Blanc Banyuls Rimage La Coume 1998

There are two youthful Vintage Ports that deserve this crown, with the Dows 2003 just pipping the Grahams 2003 to the post. I've also had some pleasing mature Port, from Delaforce and Quinta do Noval. Intrinsically these were very fine wines, but I find the Banyuls more memorable because it was such a delightful surprise, which showed that its not only Portugal that can conjure up fine wines with a touch of mutage.

Winedoctor Awards

Most impressive producer: Joint winners
South-West France: Domaine Cauhape (Henri Ramonteu)
Alsace: Marcel Deiss (Jean-Michel Deiss)

From almost opposite corners of France, these two producers seemed inseparable. One has produced my top dry(ish) white, the other my top sweet white. Both Ramonteu and Deiss are thoughtful, committed, intellectual, considerate winemakers that turn out an unsurpassable array of consistently fine wines. A roll-call of other noteworthy producers includes:

Joguet - some fine 2003 Chinons from this domaine.
Charles Hours - another example of the quality to be found in the South-West.
Chateau Malescot St-Exupéry - some fine older vintages tasted.
Pibarnon - challenging for top Bandol estate.
Ornellaia - a beautiful blend of Bordeaux style and Italian flair.
Chateau Cheval Blanc - absolutely top-flight wines across the board.

Biggest disappointment: Horst Sauer

No doubt about this one; widely acclaimed, the king of Franken has climbed his way to the summit of German winemaking with his array of dazzling dry wines. Or so I'm told; this is another example of how vital it is that you trust your own palate. Having tasted the wines in Spring 2005, I came away distinctly underwhelmed. Except by the sweet wines, of course, which were fabulous (see my sweet wine notes above). But the trocken wines...well, they were good at best, and I wondered why I should even bother? There are so many interesting wines from elsewhere that have so much more character.

Close runners-up; the new wines from Chateau Musar, which were introduced to the UK market in 2005. Weak, weak, weak...I'll be sticking to the grand vin, which I still very much enjoy. And Domaine Ray-Jane; great wine museum, and although the estate Bandol may be a worthy wine, I wasn't entirely convinced, perhaps influenced by the dull rosés on offer. Perhaps one to taste again before I pass final judgement.

Best retailer: The Wine Society

The Wine Society really does come in for some stick from some quarters, but I'm glad to be a member and highlight some of the advantages of the Society that I have experienced in 2005:

No-fuss delivery, with no hidden charges outside of the cost of the wine.
Delivery by their own team of vans and drivers, rather than carrier.
No-fuss refunds on corked bottles, arranged by e-mail.
Considerate service; when a later vintage was nearly dispatched instead of the one I ordered, I was telephoned and given the option to refuse.
Good offers; for example, fine, mature sweet wines at good prices, and a warehouse that seems to spew forth older vintages of Chateau Bellerive like no tomorrow, usually at knock-down prices.
A broad wine list; knocked by many, who accuse it of being dull, it actually features many blue-chip producers, admittedly alongside cheap Chileans and Australians, but I guess there must be a market for them as well.
Good storage facility; admittedly it doesn't accept wines bought elsewhere, and doesn't permit in-bond storage (shame!) but the conditions are spot-on.

Best bargain: A cross between University Challenge and Sale of the Century?

I recently sourced some very fine wines from a UK University's cellars in their annual end of year sale. A member of the alumnus presented me with this opportunity, and I was too taken with the prices to turn down the offer. I don't feel comfortable revealing the name of the University, or many of the wines purchased, as it seems to be an offer open only to alumni (which in this case doesn't include me) and I don't want to upset the applecart! But, as an example of the two cases I purchased, how does impeccably stored Graham's 1970 for £35 sound? Yes, I know, it sounds very tempting indeed! Can't wait to open it...here's hoping it's not corked!