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Cork Count

This feature details the corked wines I have encountered, a record which I began in 2005, initially with the intention of keeping it for just a year. I have continued it beyond that time frame, however, reflecting my opinion that corked wine remains one of the most annoying and most unacceptable faces of wine.

The bottles included are those I have opened at home, or tasted at restaurants, or those met at local tasting groups. I do not include bottles from large tastings, such as trade events, in the denominator data as one would hope these wines have been screened for off aromas before tasting - although this is not guaranteed, otherwise how else would I have encountered corked Yquem 1986? (2/2/05)

Corked bottles, January 1st 2005 to December 31st 2006:

Two Year Total

Incidence of corked bottles:

3.3%

Wines tasted at home, restaurants or at tastings: 604 of which 20 were corked.

Wines tasted at home, but bottled under screwcap or synthetic (and thus excluded): 23

Wines tasted at trade events or similar (and thus excluded): 799 of which 4 were corked.

It seems like my cork taint experience, which gives an indication of my sensitivity to cork taint, has settled out at 3 to 4% of all bottles opened at home.

Corked Hall of Shame

The following are the offending wines. As far as success in obtaining refunds, I've now included this information below. One thing is clear; whatever criticism is levied at The Wine Society, they certainly present no difficulties when requesting a refund for corked bottles.

Corked wines, 2006:

Pesquera Ribera del Duero Crianza 2003: In a Barcelona restaurant. (3/11/06)

Muga Rioja Gran Reserva Prado Enea 1996: In another Barcelona restaurant. (3/11/06)

Lanson Black Label NV: Not even at £10 per bottle is it a bargain, when it's corked. (4/8/06)

Domaine La Grange Tiphaine Touraine Amboise 2003: Sealed with an agglomerate cork. No real surprise when it was tainted with TCA then. Refund: A credit note from Stone, Vine & Sun. I would have preferred a true refund, but chose not to press the matter. (30/4/06)

God's Hill Mendel Shiraz 2002: A fruitless nose, with subtle taint in the midpalate. A real shame. Refund: not applicable - this was a trade sample. (30/4/06)

Domaine Rieutort VdP de la Vicomte d'Aumelas Pavillon des Charmes 2002: Rancidly corked. Refund: not applicable - this was a trade sample. (3/3/06)

Domaine de Beauséjour Chinon 2003: Corked, but subtly, with nullified fruit, just the faintest trace of TCA, and that tell-tale (to me, at least) bitter finish. (3/2/06)

Corked wines, 2005:

Serge Mathieu Cuvée Tradition Blanc de Noirs NV: Who said corked Champagne didn't exist? This one was pretty obvious. Refund: Hassle-free from Stone, Vine & Sun. (30/11/05)

Chateau de Fieuzal (Pessac-Léognan) 2003: Encountered at my Bordeaux 2003 assessment. Refund: not applicable. (25/10/05)

Zind Humbrecht Gewurztraminer Clos Windsbuhl 1999: Subtly corked, showing a little dirty taint, but not even sufficient to wipe out the fruit. After some deliberation, I opened another bottle which settled the matter. This was much cleaner and fresher. Refund: not enquired. (30/9/05)

Chateau Le Cédre 'Le Cédre' Cahors 1999: Corked; rescued with polyethylene, which rendered it drinkable. Massive structure, probably a great wine, but no score. Refund: not applicable - this was a trade sample. (27/6/05)

Chateau Lagrange (St Julien) 1990: Dark, glossy hue. The nose has dark, smoky fruit. It's quite intense, and only with a little air does it reveal a very mild cork taint. It is very faint, insufficient to strip all the dark, smoky fruit character from the wine. Ripe grippy tannin, full and rich. Lovely length. This is a wine with great potential - if other bottles aren't corked, obviously! I will award a tentative score - a taint-free bottle may show even better. 17.5+/20 Refund: unfortunately I simply can't remember where I purchased this bottle. (9/6/05)

Chateau La Tour du Mons (Margaux) 2000: The first was horribly corked. Despite this other tasters had drained two thirds of the bottle - the mind boggles! The second was much better. Closed at present, but with some minerally, gravely, floral aromas. Soft, round, a creamy edge. Nice tannins and soft acidity. Good style and typicity here. Needs 2-3 years to show its mettle. From a Lay & Wheeler tasting. 15.5+/20 Refund: not applicable. (8/6/05)

Chateau du Tertre (Margaux) 1996: A real disappointment. Let's hope the other three bottles don't go the same way! Refund: unfortunately I simply can't remember where I purchased this bottle. (1/6/05)

Chateau Carbonnieux (Pessac-Léognan) 2001: Corked, despite being offered at a formal tasting. Perhaps Anthony Perrin should have tasted it first? Refund: not applicable. (1/6/05)

André Perret Condieu Coteau du Chery 2001: My last of six bottles. Refund: Success - quibble-free from The Wine Society. (30/4/05)

Clos Culombu Cuvée Prestige 2000: Corked. Refund: Success - quibble-free from The Wine Society. (25/2/05)

Simon Bize Savigny-les-Beaune Blanc 1999: Refund: not applicable - this was a trade sample. (23/2/05)

Simon Bize Savigny-les-Beaune Premier Cru Aux Fournaux 1998: Refund: not applicable - a trade sample. (23/2/05)

Domaine du Mas Blanc Collioure 'Junquets' 1999: Corked. Refund: Success - quibble-free from The Wine Society. (14/2/05)

Domaine de Font-Sane Gigondas Cuvée Futée 1994: Véronique Cunty. Offensively and obviously corked. From a Female Winemakers tasting. Refund: I have no idea where this was purchased. (12/1/05)

Chateau Clerc Milon (Pauillac) 1986: Corked. No score. A bad way to start a tasting! Refund: I have no idea where this bottle came from. (19/1/05)

Chateau d'Yquem (Sauternes) 1986: A cool and wet summer. Late harvest, from October 6th. Misty September. Five tries. A deep, burnished gold. The first bottle was, sadly, corked. A second bottle fared little better, with musty, salty iodine notes, with a similar character on the palate. Neither bottle was in decent condition. I didn’t bother trying a third. A great shame as this is a great vintage. No score. Refund: not applicable. (5/1/05)