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Bründlmayer

The Bründlmayer family, like Kurt Angerer, are winemakers prepared to show the best that Austria has to offer. The range is dominated by the white varieties; Gruner Veltliner is very strong here, but so is Riesling, as well as the sweet styles with which Austria can be so successful. But there are reds also; Zweigelt, Pinot Noir, St Laurent and Cabernet, and the resulting wines account for one third of the estate's output.

The Bründlmayer vineyards are located around Langenlois, in Austria's Kamptal region. There are 75 ha under vine, mostly terraced, running along the Danube as it winds its way through northern Austria en route for Hungary. The vineyards are tended along ecologically sound lines; there are no herbicides used and only organic fertilisation; water sumps have been dug to reduce erosion. Rot and mildew is discouraged in many vineyards by lyre training, bringing the vines skywards along two arms, pruned such that the grapes hang as close as possible to the stony soils, which radiate warmth long after the sun has set, so assisting the ripening of the fruit. These soils vary in type across the Bründlmayer vineyards, with ancient sandstone lying beneath the great Zöbinger Heiligenstein vineyard, sandstone and Permian deposits with clay in the Lamm vineyard to the east, and a marine clay in the Käferberg vineyard. These vineyards, and others owned by the Brundlmayer family, are host to Gruner Veltliner and Riesling predominantly, although Chardonnay and Pinot Blanc are also grown here. The whites are generally bottled according to vineyard of origin, although there is a young vines Kamptaler Terrassen cuvée. There are reds also, but unlike the whites these are bottled as cuvées named after Willi Bründlmayer's three children; Vincent (Cabernets Sauvignon and Franc), Cécile (Pinot Noir) and Anselm (Zweigelt and St Laurent).

Harvesting is manual with several tris a possibility, with transport to the winery in small crates. They undergo a gentle pneumatic press before temperature controlled fermentation, with both steel and wood in use here. The resulting wines show a purity of fruit and a mineral origin that clearly places Bründlmayer in the premier league of Austrian wine producers. These are wines which I would happily buy to drink, although like much of Austria's exports, the prices are high. (8/12/05)

Contact details:
Address: Zwettlerstraße 23, A-3550 Langenlois, Kamptal
Telephone: +43 (0) 2734 2172 0
Fax: +43 (0) 2734 3748
Internet: www.bruendlmayer.com

Bründlmayer - Tasting Notes

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Bründlmayer Grüner Veltliner Kamptaler Terrassen 2005: A very pale hue, and certainly a captivating nose, offering fleeting notes of fleshy pears with a little peachy richness, countered by a nettly, herby, mineral-laced clarity. Very well defined on the palate, crisp and a little laser-like on entry, then rounding out on the midpalate, but never losing the peppery zip that keeps the wine so fresh. This persists through to the finish, which has a lovely blend of lithely presented fruit, minerals and a white pepper note. Short finish. But pleasing. 16/20 (July 2006)

Bründlmayer Grüner Veltliner Kamptaler Terrassen 2004: An expressive, forward, mineral nose. It has a delicate and balanced palate, with classic white pepper notes with dainty white fruits. This has some finesse. Good. 15/20 (May 2005)

Bründlmayer Grüner Veltliner Berg Vogelsang 2004: Stainless steel vinification, then just three weeks in oak. Again, mineral, open, peppery nose. This is quite fine. Has a little more weight on the palate. It has simple fruit, but fine minerality., and has good balance. Grippy finish. This is good. 15.5/20 (May 2005)

Bründlmayer Grüner Veltliner Alte Reben 2004: Fermented in used 300 litre oak casks. Plumper fruit on the nose here. This has more body, more weight, and a great peppery presence. Fine stone fruit character. This is another step up; very good indeed. 16/20 (May 2005)

Bründlmayer Grüner Veltliner Ried Lamm 2004: Fermented half in acacia, half in old oak casks. This has a full, expressive nose, eclipsing the previous wines. Cream swirled with fresh stone fruits. Lovely weight on the palate, with finesse and balance too. Broad, expressive style on the palate, with crisp white pepper notes. This is excellent. 18/20 (May 2005)

Bründlmayer Riesling Zöbinger Heiligenstein 2004: An acacia/oak fermentation. A broader, more rounded nose here. But it maintains freshness. It has lovely character, showing great depth and texture, well concentrated flavour and fine acidity. Good grip on the finish. Very good indeed. 16.5/20 (May 2005)

Bründlmayer Riesling Zöbinger Heiligenstein Alte Reben 2004: An acacia/oak fermentation. Fine, piercing, focused , peppery white fruit nose. Mineral, rocky character. Finesse and elegance in abundance on the palate, but it has a broad character and good weight. A little peppery note. Great acid structure; this is just lovely. 17/20 (May 2005)

Bründlmayer Riesling Steinmassel 2003: As above, an acacia/oak fermentation. Quite floral, clean, white fruit nose. Gentle, with delicate flavour. But fresh, and balanced, and very approachable. For drinking now. Good. 15.5/20 (May 2005)

Bründlmayer Riesling Zöbinger Heiligenstein Alte Reben 2003: An acacia/oak fermentation. A very good expressive nose, open, ripe and fruit-laden. Quite a fat presence on the palate, well-textured, but with low acidity. Lacks balance, but has appeal on some fronts. 14.5/20 (May 2005)

Bründlmayer Spiegel Grauburgunder/Weissburgunder 2003: An acacia/oak fermentation. Full, slightly honeyed, oak-tinged nose, suggestive of depth. Although it has a soft impact on the palate, it does have good acidity, great depth and a lovely svelte texture. Finishes very well. This is super. 17/20 (May 2005)

Bründlmayer Chardonnay 2003: White stone fruit on the nose. Broad, expressive character. Fine structure on the palate, some spicy acidity and lovely depth. Again, a great finish. Another lovely, finely balanced wine. 16.5+/20 (May 2005)

Bründlmayer Grüner Veltliner Kamptaler Terrassen 2002: Pale hue, but no lack of expression on the nose, which shows a lovely smoky, crushed rock minerality. Midweight palate, with some fresh, sweetly ripe white fruits on entry, balanced by a fine, tingling acidity. There's abundant white pepper too, showing remarkably on the finish, so characteristic of GV. Lovely presence and great typicity. Brilliant, considering that this is - other than the landwein - Bründlmayer's entry-level GV. Drink now. 16.5/20 (July 2005)

Bründlmayer Brut Vintage 2002: Stylish, herbal, fresh nose. Delightful palate. It still has an open, immature post-disgorge mousse, but it has great freshness and is very lively. This needs a year or two in bottle to show at its best. Very good. 16/20 (May 2005)

Bründlmayer Cécile Pinot Noir 2002: Pinot Noir 100%, named after Willi Bründlmayer's daughter. More stylish than the Dechant. An elegant, mushroom and truffle-scented nose. Quite seamless on the palate, with a soft, ripe tannic structure. There is depth and character here. This has real potential for development in the cellar; I think it would benefit from 2-3 years in bottle. I like this a lot; proof that Austria isn't just about white wines. 17+/20 (May 2005)

Bründlmayer Gelber Muskateller Trockenbeerenauslese 2002: A honeyed, sweet, smoky mineral nose. This has a very fine palate, extraordinarily rich, with piles of sweetly ripe tropical fruit and lemons, covered in a layer of honey, cut through by firm acidity. It has a wonderful persistence on the palate. Another excellent cuvée from Bründlmayer. 18.5+/20 (May 2005)

Bründlmayer Dechant 2001: Pinot Noir 90%, Merlot 10%. A moderately deep hue. Savoury, gamey, meaty, smoky, sweet-roasted aromas. Quite rounded on the palate, with some Merlot-derived weight evident. Peppery spice character. Nicely structured. Good. 16/20 (May 2005)

Bründlmayer Grüner Veltliner Loiser Berg Trockenbeerenauslese 2000: Wow - a real botrytis-infused nose here, with nuances of crushed rocks and straw. There is massive texture on the palate, which is rich and weighty and loaded with botrytis. This provides a plush, opulent, velvety mouthfeel, backed up by fine mineral and quinine streak. This is gloriously expressive, and full of flare. Stunning wine, which will no doubt develop well over the long-term. 19+/20 (May 2005)