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Wynns

Wynns was established by Scotsman John Riddoch, who moved to Coonawarra in 1861, and set about establishing a massive sheep ranch. Within two decades he had over 160000 head of sheep, and he turned his attentions to other possible uses for his land. In 1890 he divided 400 hectares of land, on the famous terra rossa soil of Coonawarra, and offered plots at £100 per 4 hectare allotment. Within a year he completed the three-gabled winery, named Chateau Comaum, which today features on Wynns' labels. Before the turn of the century had arrived there were 89 hectares of land planted to vine by the allotment holders, complimented by 52 hectares cultivated by Riddoch himself. Sadly, and despite the initial promise the Coonawarra Fruit Colony, as it was called, did not prosper, partly due to economic depression. Riddoch died in 1901, without seeing what a success the venture would become.

For decades the region was underappreciated as the demand for red wine was eclipsed by the much greater call for fortified styles. Like so many great wine estates, not just in Australia but in the Old World too, difficult times meant that the Riddoch estate languished, and was gradually being overrun by sheep. But in 1950 the property was purchased by Samuel Wynn and his son, David, two wine makers and merchants based in Melbourne. During the ensuing years David took control of the estate, and it was he that brought the image of the three-gabled winery to the Wynns labels. The Wynns fortunes really began to pick up in the 1960s, when demand for red wine began to rise, and David Wynn was largely responsible for the increased recognition afforded the Coonawarra region at this time. Other notable Australian producers purchased vineyards there, and Wynns increased their holdings to 440 hectares by 1981. Such success doesn't go unnoticed, however, and Wynns was purchased by Allied Vintners in 1972, subsequently becoming part of the Wynns group, under the Southcorp umbrella, in 1985. Today the Wynns holdings amount to a massive 950 hectares, accounting for 75% of the terra rossa soils.

Winemakers Sue Hodder and Sarah Pidgeon produce a range of wines with high quality across the board. Two red wines lead the way; the John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon is the flagship wine, and was first released in the 1982 vintage. It is sourced from the best fruit only in good vintages, and sees 26 months in French oak. The Michael Shiraz was a one-off bottling of Shiraz - then actually labelled Michael Hermitage - of the 1955 vintage, when one vat of Shiraz was noted to be of particularly good quality, and it was bottled separately. It was named by David Wynn after his son, although it was not until 1990 that the brand reappeared once more. Selection is as for the John Riddoch, but this wine sees just 18 months in American oak. A third very notable wine is the Black Label Cabernet Sauvignon, which cellars extremely well and offers very good value on that basis. There are also good varietal bottlings of Shiraz, Chardonnay and Riesling, and a Shiraz-Cabernet-Merlot blend. The latest addition to the range is the Harold Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, first released with the 2001 vintage, and not tasted by me. This is sourced from a 9 hectare dry-farmed block on the terra rossa soils.

The strength of the Wynns portfolio undoubtedly lies with the red wines, particularly with Cabernet Sauvignon. Both the John Riddoch and Black Label Cabernet are worthy additions to any cellar, the latter especially considering the value. My experience of several vintages of the Black Label is that it matures very well, far beyond expectation based on price, and offers much pleasure along the way. Quality across the board, however, is rarely less than good. (4/4/05)

Contact details:
Address: PO Box 219, Clare, Sth Aust, 5453
Telephone: +61 (0) 8 8842 2429
Fax: +61 (0) 8 8842 3550
Internet: www.wynns.com.au

Wynns - Tasting Notes

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Wynns Riesling (Coonawarra) 2005: A nice, quite sherbetty, minerally nose. Good fruit here, although it was served very cold so I am sure it has more to offer than this one taste can detect. Nicely structured, with supple fruit and a gentle minerality. An attractive style overall, with plenty of flavour and freshness. Just a note of caution here in my score though, because this sample was so cold. From the 2009 Australia Day tasting. 16+?/20 (January 2009)

Wynns Riesling (Coonawarra) 2004: Screwcap closure. Fresh, limey, mineral-stony style. Stylish palate, fresh and just a little rounded, with a tingly acid core. Refreshing, but with a little richness. Lovely. 16/20 (November 2004)

Wynns Black Label Cabernet Sauvignon (Coonawarra) 2004: Slightly burnt fruit on the nose here; there are some fresher elements to it, but overall it seems a little stretched out. As might be expected from the aromatic character it has a very soft palate, with a diffuse, easy-going style. It doesn't have a huge amount of concentration, and for my palate this seems a little fruit-deficient. From the 2009 Australia Day tasting. 14/20 (January 2009)

Wynns Chardonnay (Coonawarra) 2003: Under cork, but plans are to bottle this under screwcap in future. Fresh, clean, lemon Chardonnay nose with just a little buttery richness. Again, a fresh style, with just a little nutty character. Very nice indeed. 16/20 (November 2004)

Wynns Michael Shiraz (Coonawarra) 2003: The nose here starts off rather reserved, although it does show some rather meaty maturing fruit with a clean style. A soft palate, rather unfocused at the beginning, then seeming more detached and distant. The tannins are softening into the wine, but there still seems to be plenty of grip here. It all seems a little underwhelming to me. From the 2009 Australia Day tasting. 15.5/20 (January 2009)

Wynns Shiraz (Coonawarra) 2001: Sweet, black pepper and black fruit infused nose. Full, rounded, soft palate, although there is structure beneath. Black pepper fruit, although perhaps a touch flabby and unfocused. A little young - should improve over the next 2-3 years. 15.5+/20 (November 2004)

Wynns Cabernet Sauvignon (Coonawarra) 1999: The great Black Label Cabernet, so often a bargain for the cellar. This vintage has lovely, ripe, mint-infused black fruits. Piles of tannin on the palate, with good fruit. Perhaps lacks a little concentration and impact though; it is a touch lighter than some other vintages. Needs 4-5 years at least. 15.5+/20 (November 2004)

Wynns Cabernet Shiraz Merlot (Coonawarra) 1998: Exotic, forward, and packed with wall-to-wall fruit. Minty, eucalyptus overtones. Full palate, with great fruit, quite rounded and creamy. Dark, spicy chocolate fruit, with a good streak of tannin. Approachable now, but should improve over 2-3 years. Good. 16/20 (November 2004)

Wynns Shiraz (Coonawarra) 1998: Fairly classic Shiraz fruit on the nose. On the palate there is classy, brambly, sweet and spicy fruit, with supple tannins and a nice application of oak. Showing better, balanced acidity compared to my previous tasting. 16+/20 (November 2001)

Wynns Shiraz (Coonawarra) 1998: Drinking very well now. A glossy red-black colour, with a nose of plump blackberries and blueberries, bursting with sweet juices, with a touch of black pepper. The palate has more sweet fruit, with dry tannins in the background. It is plump, fresh and, with its low acidity, very easy to drink. 16/20 (January 2001) Label

Wynns Cabernet Shiraz Merlot (Coonawarra) 1997: More powerful fruit on the nose of this wine, with a tarry and brambly edge. Soft, rounded, black fruits on the palate, but with good tannins and pleasant acidity providing some structure. 16+/20 (November 2001)

Wynns Cabernet Sauvignon (Coonawarra) 1997: A fantastic colour, and a nose of sweet blackcurrant fruit and similarly sweet oak. Lots of classic cassis fruit on the palate, with a spicy and peppery edge. There are prominent but supple tannins and the necessary acidity to keep it fresh. Very drinkable. 16.5+/20 (November 2001)

Wynns Cabernet Sauvignon (Coonawarra) 1997: A deep colour. Vanilla oak and black fruit nose. On the palate there is black fruit, good tannins, just sufficient acidity. Some length. 15/20 (August 2000)

Wynns Michael Shiraz (Coonawarra) 1997: Classy, ripe black fruit nose. Stylish, focused, quite pure. Full, balanced, seductively ripe palate which has elegance and structure. Classic black pepper and black fruits intertwined with touches of mint and eucalyptus. This is beautifully put together. 18+/20 (November 2004)

Wynns John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon (Coonawarra) 1997: And here we have a complete contrast to the 2003 Michael Shiraz. This has a lovely nose, full of exuberant, claretty, spice and pepper maturity. Again it starts off simple and soft, but there is still some lovely character here. Admittedly it has a somewhat fat and rounded character rather than anything finer, but it has some attractive rusty, cherry, violet-tinged perfume. If it had a little more definition or vigour it would be lovely. Tasted five years ao I thought this lovely; the sheen has certainly faded since. From the 2009 Australia Day tasting. 16/20 (January 2009)

Wynns John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon (Coonawarra) 1997: Exotic, ripe, peppery floral fruit nose. Some classic, Cabernet aromas. A great depth of macerated ripe black fruit on the full, creamy palate. Much more flattering, and plump, than the 1996, and more immediately seductive as a result, although the 1996 may well be the greater wine in the long run. Tannins show mainly on the finish here. 18.5+/20 (November 2004)

Wynns John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon (Coonawarra) 1997: A great colour and a great nose. Blackcurrants, smoke and minerals, with notes of cigarbox and polished wooden cabinets. There's plenty of body and power on the palate, which has intense blackcurrant fruit with more cigarbox nuances, a creamy texture and supple but prominent tannins, particularly through the finish. A tannic length. Needs a good few years yet. 17+/20 (November 2001)

Wynns Cabernet Sauvignon (Coonawarra) 1996: Very dense, deep colour, even at the rim. Dense fruit, with clove-tinged blackcurrant and blackberry. Fine palate. Quite full, tannins still in evidence but approaching its drinking window. Good, grippy finish. Pureed, blueberry jam flavour, although not a jammy unbalanced feel. This is very good. 16.5+/20 (June 2005)

Wynns Cabernet Shiraz Merlot (Coonawarra) 1996: This is the second of two bottles for me, the first having been packed with rich, sweet fruit. It has now developed a tobacco leaf and smoke nose, with restrained plummy and blackcurrant fruit. Svelte fruit on the palate, with a firm, sooty backbone of tannins and moderately low acidity. This wine has probably done all its developing, and it's good for drinking now. 16/20 (March 2001)

Wynns John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon (Coonawarra) 1996: Lovely, classic style, with ripe fruit. Pure, blackcurrant fruit, just a touch minty, but quite balanced and stylish. Ripe flavour and a huge core of ripe tannins at the back. Really quite a restrained, elegant style but with great flavour and ripeness. Lovely. 18+/20 (November 2004)

Wynns Cabernet Sauvignon (Coonawarra) 1994: Very dark, through to a deep red rim. Very dense nose, smoky-stony, leathery-sweaty blackcurrant fruit. Creamily coats the palate, with peppery tannins and extract. Even at this age it leaves the mouth coated with tannin. Soft and supple feel beneath it though. Has impressive potential for what is a basic cuvée. Needs five years at least. From an 1994 Australian Cabernet tasting. 15.5+/20 (September 2004)