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Marcel Deiss

Talk of Marcel Deiss and one finds oneself discussing terroir, biodynamics, INAO regulations, in fact anything that might provoke a debate; Jean-Michel, who currently runs the domaine, is not a man to shy away from controversy. This trait appeals to me, as does the fact that however Deiss achieves it, the end result is undeniable. This domaine is a source of incredible, high quality wines.

The Deiss family settled in Bergheim, near Ribeauville, in 1744, and from the outset viticulture was a part of their lives. The domaine grew, and today accounts for about 27 ha of Alsatian soil. But it is in recent years that its fame has spread, under the tenure of Jean-Michel and Clarisse Deiss, with assistance from oenologist Marie Helene Cristofaro. Marcel has tended his vineyards along organic lines, using ploughing rather than weedkiller, planting grass between the vines, using natural compost and avoiding fertiliser. Density of planting is high, up to 10000 plants/ha in some cases. Since 2003, however, vineyard practices have advanced towards biodynamic. Harvesting, as one would imagine, is by hand. Yields are kept down, 25-30 hl/ha for grand cru sites (much lower than the permitted maximum), more like 45-50 hl/ha for AC Alsace vineyards. There is a very gentle and slow pressing, followed by a slow fermentation in large, closed wooden foudres, using only indigenous yeasts. The wines are kept on their lees, with batonnage to enhance interaction between the wine and the solids.

Although biodynamics, a practice discussed in my Clos de la Coulee de Serrant profile, is controversial enough, this is not what upsets the local authorities. It is Deiss’ firm belief in terroir over variety that is responsible for this. Many of his vineyards are planted with a mixture of Riesling, Pinot Gris, Gewurztraminer and more. This is not that unusual in Alsace – many Grand Cru sites include a number of different varieties. What is unusual, however, is to treat than as a field blend, with all grapes going into the final wine. Blends are not new to Alsace, of course; there are many Edelzwicker blends available, of which some are delicious. But these are usually sourced from AC rather than Grand Cru vineyards, and often feature Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer, not the region’s most noble grape, Riesling. Nevertheless, although unusual, INAO regulations do permit Grand Cru blends, provided the encépagement is declared on the label. But here Deiss has another controversy; many of these wines are named for the vineyard, rather than by the grape varieties, which would be standard practice in this region of France. Labelling Alsace Grand Cru without varietal information - as has been the practice chez Deiss - was, until 2005, operating outside the INAO regulations. A change in the law, however, means that such labelling is now permitted, thereby bringing Deiss into the fold. There was opposition to this move by other very significant Alsatian winemakers, although I don't think they should fret; I would imagine few Alsatian winemakers, other than Jean-Michel Deiss, take advantage of this labelling derestriction.

The proof of the pudding is in the eating, of course. And the range of wines presented by Deiss includes the most stunning examples of fine, mineral, terroir-driven wines I have ever encountered. They have purity, focus and precision. But, thanks to low yields and careful handling, they also have a fresh intensity of flavour which is remarkable. These are superb, balanced, and true to their origins. This is a domaine I highly recommend. (15/6/05)

Contact details:
Address: 15 route du Vin, 68750 Bergheim
Telephone: +33 (0) 3 89 73 63 37
Fax: +33 (0) 3 89 83 32 67
Internet: www.marceldeiss.com

Marcel Deiss - Tasting Notes

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Marcel Deiss Bergheim 'Burg' 2001: A blend of 60% Riesling and 40% Gewurztraminer from the marl soils of the Burg vineyard. Stunning nose; captivating minerality, stony-chalkiness. But with ripe, stone fruit as well. Little varietal Gewurztraminer character, but a steely fruit note which may be Riesling-derived. Ripe, full, expressive palate, with pure, clean, weighty texture but with piercing, fresh, tingling acidity. This is beautiful, stylish, so-drinkable wine. 18/20 (June 2005)

Marcel Deiss Grasberg 1999: A good colour, deep but shimmering and bright. A fine nose, bright and interesting, intensely limey, with elements of slate and petrol. The palate is similarly vibrant and full and at the same time, rich with brilliant acidity, oatmealy complexity and vibrant style. Zippy and fresh at the finish, full and broad, very slightly honeyed in texture but certainly not sweet. Rather it is dry, richly minerally and acidic, really fresh and lively. A very good and vivacious wine, not over the top and rather more restrained than I expected from previous Deiss experiences. A nice toothsome substance, but overall it lacks the extra layers it would need for it to be a truly great wine. From my 1999 vintage Ten Years On tasting. 17+/20 (December 2009)

Marcel Deiss Gewurztraminer Bergheim 1999: Another bottle of this fabulous Gewurztraminer. A rich gold colour. Lovely nose; smoky lychee fruit, rich and perfumed, and tinged with minerals. On the palate an opulent, expansive, mouth-coating wine. Full, almost creamy, but with grip and structure. Has all the perfume and seductiveness of a great Gewurztraminer, and although the acidity is somewhat low this wine gives plenty of pleasure. Delightful wine with a real presence; Deiss is clearly one of the top winemakers in Alsace. 18/20 (August 2005)

Marcel Deiss Gewurztraminer Bergheim 1999: A gorgeous, rich, golden colour. Dense, smoky, Gewurztraminer character, intense and perfumed, with notes of plump Turkish Delight. A big palate, full and rich, with lots of mouthfilling structure. Low acidity contributes to the big, soft feel, but there is plenty of grippy backbone to match. Lovely weight and presence, with great depth. Superb. 18/20 (June 2005)

Marcel Deiss Gewurztraminer Bergheim Vendange Tardive 1998: A ripe, golden hue. Rich, ripe, expressive nose, heavily laden with honey-spice and nuances of bacon. Beautiful entry, pure and rich rather than cloyingly sweet, full of character, full and textured, yet pure and cleanly balanced. This is stunning stuff; benchmark Gewurztraminer. 18.5/20 (June 2005)

Marcel Deiss Schoenenberg Grand Cru 1997: A mid-gold hue. On the nose it has minerals, crystal-like white fruits; a gorgeous purity of aroma. Delightful palate; full and plump, but precise, pure, focused, and with depth, grip and great body. Rich, with a sweet ripeness, but fine and balanced, with a firm, structured finish and super length. Is this sufficient praise? This is stunning; drink over the next decade. 19+/20 (June 2005)